Checking the available miter sleds and...

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jimthej
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4' Board

Post by jimthej »

Sorry, I was picturing a compound miter on a SS. I did one about 7' long by jacking up the table end of the SS and using a SS miter table and skater's grind rail as outboard support. When I cut the matching 14' piece, I used a guide and a skilsaw. This was in 1 x 8 facia. The guide and skilsaw was more accurate and a heck of a lot easier.
Jim in Bakersfield:D
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pinkiewerewolf
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Post by pinkiewerewolf »

I see you're point Jim, the compound angle would definitely shorten the size of board that would be practical to handle.

I would probably stick to picture frames and trim pieces in that case and use the technique you mentioned on larger material. (even though I'm not as good with a circular saw as I used to be):o

P.S. after much agonizing about which system to get (Ed really tempted me with the Appalatian (sp) miter sled but I can't wait until spring to start on some of these projects and that is when their next projected run will be on sale.) I ordered the Shopsmith Cross-Cut Sled tonight, after all the great advice I received I'm confident this will work well for my planned applications. I will add Nick's modifications later, after I've played with the sled for a bit.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

pinky, The fence does not extend all the way to the left (to the blade) therefore the left end of the measuring tape will not be 0". It will be something like 1 3/8" or 1 3/16" or something. Nick was just trying to show a slick way of determining what that will be.

Once you have the fence in front of you (on the sled) you will understand immediately. Zero is the right edge of the blades kerf and not the left end of the fence.

Don't forget that the kerf extends out beyond the body of the blade. Take that into consideration when you "0" the tape or you will have a built in error (small tho it may be).

Suggestion: Zero the magnetic tape on your 520 fence and do a comparison.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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pinkiewerewolf
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Thanks Dusty

Post by pinkiewerewolf »

Dusty, thanks for the clarification on the tape set-up.
That was one of the reasons I didn't order the goodies to do the modifications, I was unclear of the tape arrangement.
Now, I have a better understanding.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
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pinkiewerewolf
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Post by pinkiewerewolf »

The Shopsmith CC sled just went on sale.
$80 plus change and shipping.
I'll be calling to see if I can knab that price in the morning.

I just watched a used one sell for $70+ on ebay, so this is a great deal for a brand spanking new sled!
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
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