MicroAdjustable Rip Fence

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 11:43 am

I'm still at a lost as to how you square either the incra or jointech fence to the blade.

We all know how we square the SS fence to the blade. We first square the mitre slots to the blade by adjusting the table and then we square the fence to the mitre slot.

Once that adjustment is done the SS fence this won't change since everything that effects this adjustment is not moved again on the Shopsmith. So repeatability depends only on how close you put the fence at the same spot on the fence rail.

However on the either Incra or the Jointech it looks like they are mounted to a floating table, so there is a chance for change in adjustment on mounting to the floating table and in the floating table itself.

Now I understand the accuracy built into the Incra and Jointech. What I don't understand is how is fence initially aligned to the blade? And secondly once that alignment is complete, and the fence is totally removed from the machine, how is it reinstalled to insure the initial accuracy?

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 12:40 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:I'm still at a lost as to how you square either the incra or jointech fence to the blade.

There are many ways to do this, one that I described else where is putting the fence right up to and in contact with the blade... or perhaps a rule between the blade and fence. As long as the table is square to the blade you could use a known location like the miter slots if you wish. The definitive way would perhaps be one of those 4" x 10" blade plates???

In fact if you are really sure the rip fence is right on the money they you can adjust the jointech system to that... of course the blade or plate substitute is the most accurate place to work from without a doubt.

We all know how we square the SS fence to the blade. We first square the mitre slots to the blade by adjusting the table and then we square the fence to the mitre slot.

Again this in needed no matter what fence you install and the better this is done the better off you are, and effects more then the rip operations as the miterslots are the base for the cross cutting operations.

Once that adjustment is done the SS fence this won't change since everything that effects this adjustment is not moved again on the Shopsmith. So repeatability depends only on how close you put the fence at the same spot on the fence rail.

The part that is moved is the rip fence this is the same as the case of the jointech system, just picture the jointech as "the" rip fence.

However on the either Incra or the Jointech it looks like they are mounted to a floating table, so there is a chance for change in adjustment on mounting to the floating table and in the floating table itself.

This is again no different then you moving the rip fence to the floating table or extension table. In fact unlike the shopsmiths native system the jointech system is mounted to and squared when on the floating or extension table to start with.

Now I understand the accuracy built into the Incra and Jointech. What I don't understand is how is fence initially aligned to the blade? And secondly once that alignment is complete, and the fence is totally removed from the machine, how is it reinstalled to insure the initial accuracy?

The blade is the main datum point from which all other adjustements are made. You have options as to how you go from there. If you truely wanted to get the shopsmith rip fence square it should be referenced to that, however by design the miter slots should be parallel to the blade once the table is adjusted. (Even that could be questioned as that is a operation that will have tolerances... .) From our adjustments of the table we adjust the rip fence. Once adjusted we trust that the rail system on the shopsmith is adjusted such that where ever we mount the rip fence that it remains in correct alignment. That is the same thing that we are saying about the Jointech system. It has been aligned to the blade and from that point we put our faith in the rail system of the shopsmith.

So Ed is this beginning to make since? Again I think the best way for you to picture this is think of the shopsmith rip fence as being replaced by the jointech system. And keep in mind you simply pop one off and pop the other one on. And if you realign the shopsmith you may need to realign the jointech but that will only be once in a great while.

Ed

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 12:59 pm

Since we are on all sorts of subjects in the post from Dusty I'll feel bad about getting us off in yet another tangent but I'll do it anyway, sorry Dusty.

I've been working up my 2009 budget and one of the items on it is this:
http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/c ... Plate.html

I may not get just this one but I want something like it. This will allow me to do some setups much better and faster then before. Since I mentioned it in my last post I figured maybe I should let you see what I'm talking about if you didn't already know.

Ed

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 1:00 pm

Ed,

Have you reviewed the Incra Manual for their system. If not, they have a very comprehensive set of manuals online that can be downloaded in PDF. If you took your questions to the manual I believe you would have an answer.

If you do this, don't forget to review the addendum that covers the Shopsmith version.

shydragon · Post by **shydragon** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:08 pm

Ed, you actually answered the question yourself. Just like you align your SS fence to the miter slot, when remounting the Incra align to the miter slot, then tighten floating table down. Then it is just a matter of zeroing out the fence to the saw blade, by sliding it to blade until it just touches the teeth. Then set the magnetic strip to read zero.

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:21 pm

Dusty,
You have been working on a micro adjuster for the fence, so I thought I would see what I could come up with for my 520. I have a Vega fence on my Delta table saw with a micro adjuster that I do use once in a while, but never had one for the SS. I put this together today and it seems to work well in moving the fence a few thousands in or out. If the idea is worthwhile I am sure some of you will refine it into something that looks nice. The pics will give you the idea of what I did. Will answer any questions that I can.
ldh

pinkiewerewolf · Post by **pinkiewerewolf** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:59 pm

You guys amaze me!
Awesome!
Idh, a miter bar mounted under the plywood and you wouldn't even need to clamp it.
Great ideas.

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:18 pm

pinkiewerewolf wrote:You guys amaze me!
Awesome!
Idh, a miter bar mounted under the plywood and you wouldn't even need to clamp it.
Great ideas.

As I said, you folks will refine it. Good idea John, one might even use one of the short ones that can be locked in place. With the clamp you have zero slap for those who want it down to the thousands and the rip dimension can be greater.
ldh

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:30 pm

ldh wrote:Dusty,
You have been working on a micro adjuster for the fence, so I thought I would see what I could come up with for my 520. I have a Vega fence on my Delta table saw with a micro adjuster that I do use once in a while, but never had one for the SS. I put this together today and it seems to work well in moving the fence a few thousands in or out. If the idea is worthwhile I am sure some of you will refine it into something that looks nice. The pics will give you the idea of what I did. Will answer any questions that I can.
ldh

I don't see why it needs to be refined at all. It looks great and you said it works. This is all the counts. Along with the fact that you didn't have to pay big bucks makes this fantastic. Great Job.

I am having a bit of trouble with mine. The adjusting knob is too small. My finger strength is inadequate to move the adjustment. Need a bigger knob.

Didn't want to have to buy anything. The most points are awarded for "use of existing materials". I'm going to get zero points in that category on this one.

Thanks for the inputs though. You have given me some ideas. Pictures will follow when something materializes.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 6:50 pm

Idh,

Did you have to drill through the knobs that you used or did you buy them this way (so that the rod goes all the way through).

I have completed my proof of concept model. It works but I want a larger knob and I want to use a finer thread than I did for this one.

My going in position is that I will purchase nothing to build these jigs. It is my objective to use materials already in the shop.

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