2x4 Rip- but stuck on something

[bainin]

Hey all- working my way thru lesson 2 in the self teaching book

I am asked to prep a 3/4 x 3 x 30" board. Of course, I dont have one of these..so I figured I would use the "ripping" lesson and downsize a 2x4x30.

I ripped down the 4" dimension to 3" without issue.

Now, I am trying to rip the 2" dimension down to 3/4" . In this config, the board is about as tall as the fence.

As I'm cutting along, as the far end of the board gets about even with the splitter bar in the upper guard, the board "bumps" something and wont move forward.

Looking at it, I cant see what I'm bumping against but im not about to force it.

The plastic guard is clear and riding on top of the board.
The kickback teeth are loose and freely rotating at this point.
The splitter is just inside the cut.

Any thoughts? Thank you !

Stuck position with Guard raised

IMG_20190515_210559623.jpg (154.36 KiB) Viewed 33005 times

infeed view

IMG_20190515_210607776.jpg (80.9 KiB) Viewed 33005 times

outfeed view

IMG_20190515_211257374.jpg (90.37 KiB) Viewed 33005 times

over the fence

IMG_20190515_210616532.jpg (105.7 KiB) Viewed 33005 times

[JPG]

I am not familiar with that blade guard, but, have you tried lowering the table?

[RFGuy]

It looks to me like you are hitting the kickback cam pieces (don't know what they are called). The board has pushed them all the way to the top and I think they are binding...at least by the looks of it in the first picture and last picture. I have the same plastic upper saw guard that you show, but I don't think it is designed to cut more than about a 2" thick board. If you are ripping a 3" or taller board, I don't think you can use that upper saw guard. Shopsmith sells a riving knife and that might be the only safety gear you can use above table (that Shopsmith sells). I also have the Jessem Clear Cut TS guides that I used on my Shopsmith 520 rip fence, but for a narrow rip like you are doing, they might not work as well. If your table isn't lowered (for max blade height), then lower table more, as Brenda and JPG pointed out.

Shopsmith Riving Knife:
https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... _knife.htm

[thunderbirdbat]

I agree with JPG that lowering the table should fix the problem. It looks like the pawls are not clearing the top of your work piece preventing it from moving.

[bainin]

Thank you - I have stopped for the evening, but will take a look at lowering the table a bit tomorrow.

Regards,

b

[edflorence]

I think the answers given so far are correct...looking at the photos, (which are very clear, by the way, good job), it does look like the pawls are the obstacle. Just a thought, but the way I would do this cut is a little different. Taking the full depth in one pass should work, but I would instead set the table so the saw cuts a little short of half the thickness in one pass, then flip the board so that the same face is against the fence and take the second cut. Since these would not be through cuts, you can simply remove the splitter. After the second cut there will be a thin "rib" remaining in the center of the board, which can be cut simply with a hand saw or the band saw. The slight irregularity left after the rib is removed can be trimmed up with a hand plane or a sander. I think shallower cuts are just a little easier on the equipment.

[dusty]

What is the maximum depth of cut when using the Shopsmith table saw?

A little bit over 3".

How wide is a 2x4?

[algale]

What is the maximum depth of cut when using the Shopsmith table saw?

A little bit over 3".

How wide is a 2x4?

He said he first ripped the 2x4 down to 3" wide. So the Shopsmith should be able to make the cut. Of course if as other posters have said, if the table is set too high it is possible that the anti-kickback pawls are at the end of their vertical travel and are preventing the board from being advanced.

[dusty]

What is the maximum depth of cut when using the Shopsmith table saw?

A little bit over 3".

How wide is a 2x4?

He said he first ripped the 2x4 down to 3" wide. So the Shopsmith should be able to make the cut. Of course if as other posters have said, if the table is set too high it is possible that the anti-kickback pawls are at the end of their vertical travel and are preventing the board from being advanced.

As stated, riping the 2x4 down to a 2x3 indicates that functionally the saw is OKAY. Then he tries to rip the 2x3 (which I would do on the band saw) causes him problems. The resulting question is What Interferes with the movement of the work piece? The riving knife or the kick back claws?

My guess would be lack of clearance for the work piece to pass under the claws.

[dusty]

PS

I don't use my upper saw guard most of the time so I had to install it and see for myself. If the riving knife is properly aligned, I see nothing that could/should prevent a 2x3 from being resawn other than the kickback claws. The claws are moveable (up and down) presumably to provide the required clearance.