Difficulty getting to quill bearing

[benmcn]

After soaking my drive assembly in Evaporust I was able to get the set screw out. I am sure many will cringe at how I did it. I used my impact driver (after successfully bending two allen wrenches with out loosening the set screws.) First I used a dental pick and wire brush to clean out the set screw, then made sure the 5/32 hex was completely seated in the set screw (tapped it gently with a hammer). The impact drive worked like a dream- it slowly broke the remaining rust free and got the set screw out. Made the next step with the PB blaster much better. The down side is you are certainly risking stripping or damaging either the set screw or the hex bit. If needed you may have to alternate between PB blaster bathes and Evaporust (just make sure you clean off the PB blaster or it can hinder the penetration of the Evaporust)

[JPG]

Remove the set screw(arbor adapter) and soak up to the collar in evaporust over night.

With the collar set screw tight, grasp the collar in the jaws of either a channel lock pliers(big un) or a large vice grip. Then torque the adapter while holding the shaft(by way of the collar etc.) steady. Protect the collar by using some sheet rubber between the collar and the 'wrench'(channellock/vice grip). Once rotation is achieved, apply(pry) force to separate.

[Hobbyman2]

if you can , as close to the arbor as possible put the shaft between 2 pieces of wood in a vice and heat the arbor, then use a pipe wrench to twist the arbor back and forth until it brakes free , if the shaft is bad , buggered up ,when you get it apart replace it , SS still has shafts for some MKV ,depending on you model , I switched to a double bearing quill and it spins true with no wobble good luck ..JMO

[beeg]

then use a pipe wrench to twist the arbor back and forth until it brakes free ..JMO

I like to use a piece of rubber tire tube between the jaws and the work piece.

[johnkgerken]

Well, all I've achieved so far is about 1/32" of movement, but that just cost me damage to the screw at the end of the quill. It doesn't look easily fixable.

So, what are the costs and modifications required to upgrade to a two bearing quill? If I've got to replace it, it makes sense to get the more rigid version if I can afford it.

<Grrr> I hate it when stuff like this happens.
Opinions?
Thanks,
John

[JPG]

Well, all I've achieved so far is about 1/32" of movement, but that just cost me damage to the screw at the end of the quill. It doesn't look easily fixable.

So, what are the costs and modifications required to upgrade to a two bearing quill? If I've got to replace it, it makes sense to get the more rigid version if I can afford it.

<Grrr> I hate it when stuff like this happens.
Opinions?
Thanks,
John

That is the end of the arbor adapter, NOT the quill shaft. Far cheaper than a new quill.

1/32 what direction?

[chapmanruss]

If you have to replace the Quill Assembly and want to go to the double bearing Quill you will also have to replace the Drive Sleeve and parts on the idler shaft to change it to a Poly "V" Drive. New parts from Shopsmith are over $350 or you may find what you need used.

When you say

just cost me damage to the screw at the end of the quill

exactly what screw are you referring to? The set screw in the collar is easily replaced and is a stock item at most hardware stores. The same is true if it is the set screw in the 5/8" Arbor. If you also damaged the Arbor it can easily be replaced too.

[johnkgerken]

Hi guys,

Yea, I was pretty upset with myself for being so dumb. I tried using my impact wrench to turn the bearing extractor with the thought that the impact motion might break lose whatever was holding that piece onto the shaft. But what happened instead, was that the end of the extractor screw marred the end of the shaft where the threads are. Here is a picture:

IMG_4051small.jpg (779.12 KiB) Viewed 11832 times

Looking at it this morning, it "might" be fixable with a bit of careful persuasion. I've seen antique tool restorers on YouTube fix far worse. But, of course, that is them not me. ;-)

One thought I had was that perhaps I could remove the shaft by pushing it out of the quill (am I using the right terms here?), but my recollection is that there is a snap ring or other retainer behind the knurled knob that has to be removed first. Am I correct about that?

Other thoughts, or ideas on how to proceed to either loosen up that piece or repair the damage I did?

Thanks,
John

[wa2crk]

Don't try to fix the adapter arbor. There are two flats for a wrench on the end of the adapter near the knurled nut Keep using the PB blaster or whatever you are using to dissolve the rust and put it through the hole and into the seam between the knurled nut and the collar of the adapter. With the splined end of the quill secured rock the adapter back and forth with the wrench on the flats until you get some movement. After you get movement keep working the adapter while applying pressure away from the knurled nut. It should start to move eventually.
In my opinion the adapter is toast. They come up on E-Bay but not often.
Yes there is a snap ring inside the quill housing behind the knurled nut but it is a standard hardware store item.
Bill V

[BuckeyeDennis]

I'm having a hard time figuring out how you had the bearing extractor set up. You need to pull on that arbor, not push on it.

But then I realized that the arbor could serve nicely as its own jack screw. Can you still get a nut on those damaged arbor threads? If not, you could probably clean them up with a thread file.

You can cut a sleeve out of metal pipe to slip over the arbor, all the way down to the knurled collar. You'll need most of the arbor threads exposed when the sleeve is in position. Then slip a big heavy washer over the threaded end of the arbor, and thread on a hex nut. When you tighten the hex nut, all of the screw thrust will go through the washer, then the sleeve, then the knurled collar, then the inner race of the spindle bearing, and finally up against a solid shoulder on the spindle. You'll just have to restrain the splined end of the spindle so that the whole spindle doesn't rotate.

Unless whatever is binding the arbor to the spindle is stronger than the arbor threads, that setup should be able to break it free.

Edit: If you're lucky, you can find a pipe nipple that's already the right size to use for a jacking sleeve.