Mk 5 ER?

[sryoder]

Russ,

This is basically the direction my mind is headed right now although I would have to build storage between the ends. I have to grab storage wherever I can find it. I like the idea of using my SS retractable casters mounted outboard of the ends per Ron's suggestion. I looked at the Popular Mechanics Mk II conversion (https://books.google.com/books?id=rtMDA ... &q&f=false) and, although intriguing, decided that it ultimately was beyond what I need.

[JPG]

Hey! FWIW, I just realized that I don't even need the lower tubes if I do a "Deputy-style" conversion.

I would include them regardless.

Bench tubes and a bench? What’s your thinking?

I simply think the bench tubes are far more functional than simply bolting to a 'bench'. Their purpose is to create a rigid frame independent from whatever it is mounted upon be that a bench or legs. Then there is that way tube twist that I keep harping about.

[edflorence]

Just my $0.02 on this topic, which, since I am also a 5'3" woodworker, is one I have given some thought to over the years I have used my Mark 5's.

Yes, the saw table is high relative to most other table saws, but I rarely find this enough of a problem to make me want to start modifying the base of the machine. Feather boards or other hold downs mounted to the fence when ripping are pretty much needed all the time anyway, and along with a well-placed push block seem to take care of the need to apply downward force on the workpiece. My experience and opinion are that featherboards, hold-downs, push sticks and the like do that job...my job is to provide the feed force. If I am rabbeting an edge (not a through cut) I will sometimes clamp a board the full length of the fence to provide downward pressure on the workpiece for the full length of the pass. For other rip cuts, one vertical and one horizontal featherboard on the infeed side of the saw along with a push stick or push block work well.

For cross cuts I use and highly recommend the Shopsmith cross-cut table. I will often clamp the workpiece to the table's fence, and after that no more downward force is needed. The clamping head on the mitre gage generally provides sufficient downward pressure also, unless the piece is really long or thick or in some way awkward, in which case the cross-cut table is called back into service

This table height discussion has appeared before and after listening to the back and forth on the subject years ago I built a little platform that raised me up a few inches above the floor to see if it made any difference. What I found was that the time spent worrying about stepping backwards off the platform more than cancelled out any peace of mind I might have gained from increased height.

In short (ha!), I would suggest you try living with the machine in its original state for a while before making big changes. It is very convenient to be able to easily move the machine about on its original legs and casters.

I will be interested to hear what you choose to do.

[sryoder]

In short (ha!), I would suggest you try living with the machine in its original state for a while before making big changes. It is very convenient to be able to easily move the machine about on its original legs and casters.

I will be interested to hear what you choose to do.

I bought my first Shopsmith in 1980 and basically taught myself cabinetmaking on it. Used it until 2009 when I gave it t my son since it wouldn't fit on the sailboat that my wife and I retired to. When we quit sailing and bought a house 4 years ago, I bought a used Mk V from a local 2nd hand store. So I've lived with it for a very long time and it's always made me uncomfortable. I work around the discomfort but recently started thinking, encouraged by all the various modifications I read about on this forum, about maybe altering the machine to ease the discomfort altogether.

I'll also bee interested to see what I decide to do.

-Steve

[RFGuy]

I bought my first Shopsmith in 1980 and basically taught myself cabinetmaking on it. Used it until 2009 when I gave it t my son since it wouldn't fit on the sailboat that my wife and I retired to. When we quit sailing and bought a house 4 years ago, I bought a used Mk V from a local 2nd hand store. So I've lived with it for a very long time and it's always made me uncomfortable. I work around the discomfort but recently started thinking, encouraged by all the various modifications I read about on this forum, about maybe altering the machine to ease the discomfort altogether.

I'll also bee interested to see what I decide to do.

-Steve

Steve,

I am 6' tall and have to say that most of what I do on my Mark V works well for me at my height and this is over a few decades with it. Only recently have I started to get into woodturning and for lathe work, the Shopsmith is too low for me to be comfortable to turn on for hours. This has caused me to contemplate ways to raise my Shopsmith, whether it be via a platform, or hydraulic lift, or even swapping out the Shopsmith legs for taller, beefier cast iron legs like below. Ideally I would like the standard Shopsmith height for everything but lathe mode to be taller. So, I think I can understand and empathize with you on machine heights, even though I want to go the other direction with mine.

I also used featherboards for years on rip cuts, but purchased the Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides this year (https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/wood ... 22171.html). I have to say the difference is night and day and I feel much more confident on my long board rip cuts now on my Shopsmith with the simple addition of this after market accessory.

My point with these two different comments is that feeling comfortable using our power tools is important, but often overlooked by many of us. Often, until you experience something different, it is hard to know how important it is to make the change...once you do though, there is no going back. I hope you come to a solution that helps you to feel more comfortable while using your Shopsmith. It really is too bad that Shopsmith doesn't offer more than one leg height, or even the ability to raise/lower it. Some of us would pay for a solid cast iron leg solution to give a bit more heft and lower center of gravity to the machine for woodturning. If these Laguna cast iron legs weren't so darn expensive, I would consider adapting them to attach to the Mark V base...perhaps there are other solutions for leg replacements out there that could help you???

laguna_revo_leg.jpg (38.12 KiB) Viewed 10398 times

[JPG]

A couple of platforms with a nest for the SS legs would work.

[RFGuy]

A couple of platforms with a nest for the SS legs would work.

True, but I am not a big fan of platforms because of the potential for trip hazard in the shop. An Autoquip lift under my Mark V would be nice, but would cost as much as a new Mark 7.

[JPG]

A couple of platforms with a nest for the SS legs would work.

True, but I am not a big fan of platforms because of the potential for trip hazard in the shop. An Autoquip lift under my Mark V would be nice, but would cost as much as a new Mark 7.

Two small platforms barely larger than the SS 'feet' leaves little to either trip over or fall off. Nest is important so the SS would not fall off.

[RFGuy]

Two small platforms barely larger than the SS 'feet' leaves little to either trip over or fall off. Nest is important so the SS would not fall off.

Guess I would have to see a drawing because I am not quite following you. Is there a pic or previous thread that describes this platform in more detail? What do you mean by "feet" on the Shopsmith? That term brings to mind an antique bath tub with claw feet.

[JPG]

6" wide x SS depth x desired height increase with lip surround to create 'nest'.

Oh and good morning(crispy ain't it?).