Here's a couple of jewelry boxes. I actually started these some years back. The one is pretty good and the other, last pic, is a fail. Can't figure out how to save it??? (The good one is going to be in a silent auction for the non-profit I do volunteer work with.) The plans for these were from Woodsmith Magazine about '90. The central inlay is from Constantine's. The maple banding around the inlay I made. There's a mirror on the inside cover. The top tray slides on the lower tray. Both trays can be removed. There's space 'hidden' under the bottom tray for a passport or some paper money.
Thanks for looking. And if you have suggestions as to how I can remove the damaged banding on the fail and replace it - super.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Beautiful work on the inlays. Something that I would not even try at this point !!!
I don't see the fail unless you are referring to the smear of the darker wood on to the lighter wood in the photo with the ruler. If so did you try to use the corner of a single edge razor blade to remove the smear? It looks like the smear occurred when the sanding media dragged the darker wood onto the lighter. Very judicious use of an X-Acto knife or a scalpel can be used to lift it away. The problem with this type of Failure is that you know it is there and your eye will go to it every time. Another person may even notice it. A very small detail sander may also be an option.
Do not use coarse sanding media only very fine and work slowly.
Bill V
That is beautiful work. Inlay is tricky as you already know. I don't even attempt it, but my Wife does wood inlay, so if I decide to make something with inlay, I just turn that part over to her so it gets done right.
That one is too pretty to give away. You might want to keep it for a family member.
Fail - I'm not completely sure if the maple was planed a little thinner at that end or I was pushing with more force or some combo....but it sure looks like crap. I think I'll try to remove it with a chisel but I've got to try and remove the string and replace it.
berry wrote:Fail - I'm not completely sure if the maple was planed a little thinner at that end or I was pushing with more force or some combo....but it sure looks like crap. I think I'll try to remove it with a chisel but I've got to try and remove the string and replace it.
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My guess it was just the grain direction in the piece of wood not anything you did . Grain selection in delicate work is crucial .
Hobbyman2 Favorite Quote: "If a man does his best, what else is there?"
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
The boxes are beautiful. I have never done inlay, but what are the two woods here in the “Fail” ? It looks like the dark wood is oak with a stain on it. If so, couldn’t this be oil or stain bleeding from the dark wood to the top of the light wood in the inlay? First thing I would think of is something bleeding over when I put dark and light woods next to each other.
As far as removing and re-doing the maple strip, how about using a small trim router or dremel type tool? Some cleanup may be required with chisels or knives to finish and get nice square corners, but a guided power tool may be more accurate for the bulk of the removal. It may be more than you want to remove, but removing all 4 of the maple strips might be easier than just the one.
How thick is the maple? What was the sequence of assembly of the box lid and the maple strips in the first place? Would it be possible to cut the lid down to just the dark center area with the inlay and then add new maple/dark edges?
I think Shipwright would be the best resource on this.
The banding width seems to get wider in the problem area. Is it possible that the outer edge is some how smeared over the walnut base and a little work with a cabinet scraper would remove the overlap, and resolve most of the problem.
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Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
RF Guy
