Cross-cutting multiple long pieces to the same length

[chapmanruss]

I had suggested,

For the 500 or 505 using a sliding crosscut table with the both boards clamped to it could work.

Ed said,

No can do with the 500, however. Likewise, I know of no way to use the cross-cut table for a bevel cut...the outboard end of the cross-cut table has to be supported by the extension table which has to be in the same plane as the main table.

I do not have a 500 at this time but could have tried it with one of mine to see how it might work. I realize that only the main table would be supporting the sliding crosscut table but with the angle and assistance I thought it could work. Another limiting factor would be the maximum thickness for cutting a 45 degree bevel and adding not the thickness of the 3/4" crosscut table but the bevel thickness of another 1-1/8" if I figured that correct. It's been a long time since I studied Geometry.

One thing I have learned about the Shopsmith is sometimes we are only limited by our imagination.

In this case if I was making these cuts I would probably use the Radial Arm Saw. Ed, I know that doesn't help so maybe one of the other suggestions will.

[jsburger]

So here is a way to use the sliding cross cut table. I have not tried this but someone tell me where I am wrong.

As was suggested by Russ (I think) use the 5' extension tubes and floating tables. Position them the correct distance and use the rip fence as a stop. Well if you use the floating tables in this manner why can't you use the sliding cross cut table also? The floating tables will support the cross cut table. If your piece is longer than the cross cut table use the fence as the stop. If not, clamp a stop to the cross cut table fence.

[edflorence]

Yep, I think that would work fine, John, but the 500 system does not include the floating tables. I think Russ' idea to support the cross-cut table on the tilted main table is a good thought, but the cross-cut table is too heavy to remain in the miter slot unless the opposite end is supported somehow, which means rigging up something that might work like the extension tubes. Maybe some long angle iron pieces that could be affixed to the front and back of the main table?? But then, as Russ points out, the thickness of the cross-cut table will reduce the depth capacity of the cut. So, to keep it simple: I think after reading everyone's input that the method of work for this job using the 500 is:

1) cross-cut the four pieces to slightly over length
2) move headstock and carriage all the way to the right, tilt the table (I use a metal
drafting triangle to ensure the 45 degree angle) and cut the bevels on one end of
all pieces.
3) clamp the two same length sides together, using a square to make sure the
beveled ends line up, then using a cleat or a speed square for a guide, cut the
second bevels with the hand-held circular saw, leaving the pencil line.
4) Without changing the tilt of the table, swap out the saw blade and mount the
sanding disk and with the same length sides still clamped to each other and also
clamped to the main table, advance the quill and sand the bevels right to the line.

I think this procedure should ensure that even when cutting long pieces, the same length sides actually are the same lengths.

Thanks to all for the helpful input.

[JPG]

. . . Another limiting factor would be the maximum thickness for cutting a 45 degree bevel and adding not the thickness of the 3/4" crosscut table but the bevel thickness of another 1-1/8" if I figured that correct. It's been a long time since I studied Geometry.
. . .

0.75 x √2 = 1.06066 which is almost 1 1/16.

[reible]

One thing I didn't see mentioned was if you are going to group the boards together some how you should do that before the first cut. No reason to have to align the beveled ends and then group them.

You can also clamp a long straight board to the undersides of the two board then hook this board over the edge of the table and use it as a guide. I have a jig I made may years ago for getting a straight edge to work from by doing this. In that case it isn't to critical how to get a nice 90 degrees but I think it still can be done in this case. This only works on the 500 table.

If this is two confusing let me know and I will draw a sketch of mock up a model to get the idea clearer.

Ed

[larryhrockisland]

I like a small cross cut sled attached to my miter gauge. Easy on, easy off. I made this one longer than I usually do to help support the work piece the size Ed is talking about and give me something to hold down above the blade as it does want to tip a little. I used a 1/4" masonite base screwed to a 3/4 plywood scrap and added the small plywood strip for the stop. This piece is 45". I like the miter grip for helping hold things in place.

IMG_0751 (Custom).JPG (288.06 KiB) Viewed 10811 times

IMG_0753 (Custom).JPG (285.58 KiB) Viewed 10811 times

[jsburger]

I like a small cross cut sled attached to my miter gauge. Easy on, easy off. I made this one longer than I usually do to help support the work piece the size Ed is talking about and give me something to hold down above the blade as it does want to tip a little. I used a 1/4" masonite base screwed to a 3/4 plywood scrap and added the small plywood strip for the stop. This piece is 45". I like the miter grip for helping hold things in place.
$matches[2]
IMG_0753 (Custom).JPG

Very nice for the 500. BTW, a good looking Model 10 in the background.

[JPG]

A nice looking 10 on stilts!

[edflorence]

One thing I didn't see mentioned was if you are going to group the boards together some how you should do that before the first cut. No reason to have to align the beveled ends and then group them.

Good point, Ed. That is how I would do it using the cross-cut table. With the miter gage, though, I find it gets harder to keep the workpiece flat to the table and snug against the miter gage the wider it gets.

You can also clamp a long straight board to the undersides of the two board then hook this board over the edge of the table and use it as a guide.
Ed

Also a good idea. I have done this wide pieces, pressing the cleat tight to the lower edge of the table. Works well. This would be a good way to get the second bevels on both pieces at once, which answers the question I initially proposed. Thanks for the reminder about this method.

[edflorence]

give me something to hold down above the blade as it does want to tip a little.

Larry - that is a really slick looking sled. I think I may have to build something like that. It really does extend the capacity of the table. Thanks for posting the pictures. It does seem like your sled provides support for the workpiece, sort of in the way that has been discussed of using the floating tables and extension tubes on the 510 and 520. I also like the way you can incorporate a fixed stop to get repeatable lengths.

I don't quite follow what you are saying in the quote I snipped. Are you saying you grip the miter gage with one hand and press the sled down with the other? Does that mean you are reaching across the blade during the cut?