Shieve/belt issues on 500 Goldie

[kcormier]

Thanks all for the valuable tips: I have taken off the headstock and removed the motor from the headstock. Once the pulley was removed from the motor shieve, i placed a rag inside the shieve and I was able to push the shieve together, as shown in the pic. I then found the oil hole by looking thru the coil spring. I have placed some 3 in 1 oil, and tipped the motor up, so hopefully the oil can run along the shaft etc. I plan on leaving it overnight.

Sorry......I have also tried to add two pictures to this reply....had no luck..I selected "load Attachemnt", choose file, selected the photo, chose "add the file", and nothing comes up....not sure what is going on... I will try and add them to a new post....maybe that will work

Is there anything else I should be doing at this point??

[JPG]

If the pix is too large(any one of width, height, total size) it will give you an almost discernible error message and pass nothing.

[kcormier]

I have tried doing that post from my iPhone, iPad and computer, all yielding the same results? Actually on the iPhone it showed me the size of the pick, something like 1.2 mb, but I reduced to medium, with no luck. I will keep trying, because I know it worked the other day from my iPhone. Thanks

[DLB]

I don't think this is a rule, but personally if I have a sheave stick on either shaft I disassemble it for a more thorough cleaning of both the outside of the shaft and inside of the sheave. Like oiling, the motor shaft is the more difficult of the two.

Once it is back together you might also consider doing a high speed adjustment unless you've already done it. Basically this sets the stops and gets your speed indicating dial to be consistent with the speed control position inside. Some of the views in your pics make me think this might be off a bit, but I'm not certain.

People were having trouble with pictures yesterday but I think that has been resolved. If you are getting an error message it should tell you whether it is off in total size, horizontal pixels, or vertical pixels. Assuming a size related problem.

- David

[kcormier]

24CE41F8-A635-4FCB-80C0-E4067F3EE014.jpeg (24.84 KiB) Viewed 11024 times

0A9CCBEF-B8EA-41AA-A6B9-7E46AC95E046.jpeg (23.43 KiB) Viewed 11024 times

Here are picks that I could not load yesterday. Thinking now it was a file size issue. The second photo shows the belt. When I reduced the size I believe the quality may have been reduced. Just wondering if the belt looks good enough
Thanks

[DLB]

I can't see the belt well enough in the picture to judge it. If it is only showing normal wear then the wear threshold is that it should be a minimum of 1/2" wide measured across the 'back' or outside edge. You can use automotive belt dressing, but it can be messy. You might have abnormal wear if the belt started slipping due to the pulley not moving, but I'm not able to see that in this pic. I would probably use it even if I determined it was time to order its replacement.

It is generally very difficult to use an aftermarket belt even if you can find one. Shopsmith belts are recommended. Recently someone posted details of a metric replacement they got from the Jacob Anderson site, probably also a good belt, and his site has videos stating why he thinks they are an improvement. There are other threads on this subject.

The sheaves should close much further than the other pic shows under spring tension. Maybe just showing how it is sitting while the oil soaks in? The end goal is a small film of oil spread over the full range of motion of the sheave on the shaft. Once it is working right you want to add a few drops of oil on each moving sheave and then run the speed from fast to slow and back a few times while the motor is running to spread the oil.

You got the photo resolution down A LOT! The belt one is 320 X 240 pix.

- David

[JPG]

Yes a fully closed motor pulley should look like the idler pulley in your first picture.

[kcormier]

I can't see the belt well enough in the picture to judge it. If it is only showing normal wear then the wear threshold is that it should be a minimum of 1/2" wide measured across the 'back' or outside edge. You can use automotive belt dressing, but it can be messy. You might have abnormal wear if the belt started slipping due to the pulley not moving, but I'm not able to see that in this pic. I would probably use it even if I determined it was time to order its replacement.

It is generally very difficult to use an aftermarket belt even if you can find one. Shopsmith belts are recommended. Recently someone posted details of a metric replacement they got from the Jacob Anderson site, probably also a good belt, and his site has videos stating why he thinks they are an improvement. There are other threads on this subject.

The sheaves should close much further than the other pic shows under spring tension. Maybe just showing how it is sitting while the oil soaks in? The end goal is a small film of oil spread over the full range of motion of the sheave on the shaft. Once it is working right you want to add a few drops of oil on each moving sheave and then run the speed from fast to slow and back a few times while the motor is running to spread the oil.

You got the photo resolution down A LOT! The belt one is 320 X 240 pix.

- David

Latest update: I agree with you that the sheaves should be much closer. I used penetrating oil to try to loosen...overnight, just check it....no movement at all. Not sure what the next step would be in correcting this sheave problem.....hopefully you can point me in the correct direction. thanks

Ken

[JPG]

Motor sheave removal and cleaning and lubricating.

Spring removal is not for the faint hearted.
The cup and spring must be depressed so as to allow removal of the retaining ring. Proper tool is really really necessary(to avoid damage to either the ring, operator, or both).

Then spring must be allowed to expand gradually and removed.

Only then can the floating sheave and shaft and key be monkeyed with.

[DLB]

Given the other symptoms, pulling the sheave after spring removal may be difficult on this unit. Be advised the sheave is relatively easy to damage. If you can't pull it with your hands, I suggest coming back to the forum with that concern. Some of us, me for sure, can tell you how not to do it as well as maybe describe something that has worked in at least one case.

- David