Table Saw Accuracy and 5/8" Blades

[Cliffy]

New to SS and have read the reasoning behind the larger saw blade hole but wondering if anyone has ever really determined IF it makes any difference inaccuracy? Never really had much trouble with 5/8 blades on any of the regular 10" saws I've had over the years but didn't make many segment rings then either.
I'm planning on making 16 segment rings (1/2" thick) and my mind wanders to maybe using an 8*' or even a 7 1/2" blade for better accuracy if IN FACT the hole size on a 10" blade really makes a difference. I won't need much depth of cut. Luckily I have many good blades to choose from.

[RFGuy]

Doug Reid gave an explanation on why Shopsmith went with the 1 1/4" sawblade bore on a 10" blade (see video below). I haven't seen anyone say definitively that one is better than the other. In fact, many forum members use 5/8" bore sawblades in their Shopsmith all the time and report it works very well. Personally I have the 1 1/4" bore on my Forrest Woodworker II sawblade and enjoy it, but it was no extra cost to get this bore size from them. I suspect with a lower quality sawblade on a 5/8" bore that you might need to add stabilizer rings to it. IF so, any advantage in possibly deeper cut capacity is negated because of having to add the stabilizer rings. So it is kind of personal preference unless you intend to interchange sawblades with non Shopsmith equipment and/or are coming from another brand tablesaw.

[dusty]

New to SS and have read the reasoning behind the larger saw blade hole but wondering if anyone has ever really determined IF it makes any difference inaccuracy? Never really had much trouble with 5/8 blades on any of the regular 10" saws I've had over the years but didn't make many segment rings then either.
I'm planning on making 16 segment rings (1/2" thick) and my mind wanders to maybe using an 8*' or even a 7 1/2" blade for better accuracy if IN FACT the hole size on a 10" blade really makes a difference. I won't need much depth of cut. Luckily I have many good blades to choose from.

I have no idea why anyone would think the larger hole has an impact on accuracy. Now a miter gauge that holds 22.5 degrees accurately enough for 16 segments is another story Slop in the miter bar will give you more issues than the blade.

[jsburger]

New to SS and have read the reasoning behind the larger saw blade hole but wondering if anyone has ever really determined IF it makes any difference inaccuracy? Never really had much trouble with 5/8 blades on any of the regular 10" saws I've had over the years but didn't make many segment rings then either.
I'm planning on making 16 segment rings (1/2" thick) and my mind wanders to maybe using an 8*' or even a 7 1/2" blade for better accuracy if IN FACT the hole size on a 10" blade really makes a difference. I won't need much depth of cut. Luckily I have many good blades to choose from.

I have no idea why anyone would think the larger hole has an impact on accuracy. Now a miter gauge that holds 22.5 degrees accurately enough for 16 segments is another story Slop in the miter bar will give you more issues than the blade.

Larger hole larger arbor larger washers on the side of the blade. Company's still sell blade stabilizers (larger washers).

I thought Doug Reid explained the thinking back in the early 50's very well in the video. Is it appropriate today with better material and laser cut dampening grooves in the blade? Probably not but the original thought was appropriate for the time.

[BobCoates1953]

Cliffy,
Dusty is correct that you will need the to more concerned with the slop in the miter gauge and table slot. You should probably consider a sled to do the wedges. You can google to get some ideas on how to make one. I took three or four iterations before I got one that I liked and worked well.

Bob

[Cliffy]

Actually looking at sleds
Awaiting a MiterSet tool to give it a try also
Have a set of plastic wedges for different angles also to try.

[dusty]

Actually looking at sleds
Awaiting a MiterSet tool to give it a try also
Have a set of plastic wedges for different angles also to try.

You'll love the MiterSet.

[dusty]

New to SS and have read the reasoning behind the larger saw blade hole but wondering if anyone has ever really determined IF it makes any difference inaccuracy? Never really had much trouble with 5/8 blades on any of the regular 10" saws I've had over the years but didn't make many segment rings then either.
I'm planning on making 16 segment rings (1/2" thick) and my mind wanders to maybe using an 8*' or even a 7 1/2" blade for better accuracy if IN FACT the hole size on a 10" blade really makes a difference. I won't need much depth of cut. Luckily I have many good blades to choose from.

I have no idea why anyone would think the larger hole has an impact on accuracy. Now a miter gauge that holds 22.5 degrees accurately enough for 16 segments is another story Slop in the miter bar will give you more issues than the blade.

Larger hole larger arbor larger washers on the side of the blade. Company's still sell blade stabilizers (larger washers).

I thought Doug Reid explained the thinking back in the early 50's very well in the video. Is it appropriate today with better material and laser cut dampening grooves in the blade? Probably not but the original thought was appropriate for the time.

[larryhrockisland]

Actually looking at sleds
Awaiting a MiterSet tool to give it a try also
Have a set of plastic wedges for different angles also to try.

You'll love the MiterSet.

+ 1 on the Miter Set

[Cliffy]

The one saw blade this SS came with is an old rip blade well worn. Of course large bore.
If I wanted a good blade for the large bore adaptor would a SS blade be as good as any other or are there other options for the large bore saw blades?