ERLover wrote:A friend bought a Grizzly drum sander with out an oscillating head, the sanding media can gum up in the same spot, grit lines, heat build up in the same area.
Oscillating head, no grit lines, media does not gum up in the same area as easily, since it oscillates you dont get a heat build up in the same area on the media as easily and causing the above problems.
When I first got my Performax 16-32 years ago I ruined a belt in no time at all. It got gummed up streaks which in turn made burned streaks on the wood. At around $10 a belt you don't want to do that very often. Then someone said to feed the stock at a slight angle to the drum. That way as the stock passes under the drum the contact point is moving horizontally along the length of the drum.
Of course, proper feed rate and amount of material removal are factors. Also as the stock gets wider the effect is diminished.
I just changed a belt about a month ago that had been on the machine for years.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
I think the 'subject' of this thread has nothing to do with the SS planer, but rather the 'burnability' of cherry burl. JMHO
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I agree if it is burning the wood something is not right , have you tried any other hard wood ??? I hear all the time folks having issues with cherry but I can tell you if your equipment is set up right and everything is clean sharp and running at the proper speed it doesn't burn, I use cherry quite a lot and will add it does not have a high tolerance to equipment that is not properly set up or dull blades ,, in fact I have used scrap pieces it to set up my saws for that very reason . if you stop in the middle of a cut it can also show burn marks , as for the planer I would have the blades sharpened or replaced and properly re-aligned . 2 you may also have a issue with the feed rate , if the forward motion slows too much it may cause the situation on any planer especially with a dull dirty blade . also pictures may help . JMO
Hobbyman2 Favorite Quote: "If a man does his best, what else is there?"
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
NOTE: gn017 is a first time poster commenting on a post that is over 5 years old.
Sorry but I have to question why.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
dusty wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 9:18 am
Notice the link that he includes in his post.
Is this, in itself, reason to be banned?
Fer sure! Notice it is now 'not there'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange