Maintaining an old, long idle Mark V
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- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3480
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Maintaining an old, long idle Mark V
When doing the suggestions David made above make sure your Shopsmith is plugged into a circuit that doesn't have anything else plugged into or running on it.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Re: Maintaining an old, long idle Mark V
David, I got my troubleshooting brain back and since I had to replace the cord (ground taken out of the plug and a "patched" spot that had been cut), I pulled the motor out, and the belt was bound in the upper sheave (sp). the motor and the head both turn softly and smoothly. It's going back together as we speak.
I also was given the order of a New Mark 7 by my wife for my 61st birthday, (and as an incentive to retire early) its in process of being built right now. Ill clean up this Mk5, and pass it on with the bandsaw, but Ill keep the belt sander and the jointer. I should be able to come out even or ahead when this is done. Looking forward to making dust and furniture instead of expensive fire wood.
Jeff Wagener (Jdwags)
Bothell, Wash
I also was given the order of a New Mark 7 by my wife for my 61st birthday, (and as an incentive to retire early) its in process of being built right now. Ill clean up this Mk5, and pass it on with the bandsaw, but Ill keep the belt sander and the jointer. I should be able to come out even or ahead when this is done. Looking forward to making dust and furniture instead of expensive fire wood.
Jeff Wagener (Jdwags)
Bothell, Wash
Jeff Wagener
Jdwags
Rathdrum, Idaho
Mark VII 2021 with Band Saw
Mark V 1986
Belt Sander, Jointer, Band Saw
Jdwags
Rathdrum, Idaho
Mark VII 2021 with Band Saw
Mark V 1986
Belt Sander, Jointer, Band Saw
Re: Maintaining an old, long idle Mark V
So David and ChapmanRuss:
And anyone else that wants to chime in.
I cleaned up the motor and replaced the cord. I ran it on the bench and it came right up no problem. Got the belt unstuck from the
upper sheave, and reinstalled the motor. Plugged it in and. .... same issue, bound right up and popped the breaker. The headstock spins smoothly by hand, and the motor works without the belt. Is the motor ready for a rebuild? I have numerous motor rebuilder's in the area that aren't too overly impressed with themselves. What could I be missing?
And anyone else that wants to chime in.
I cleaned up the motor and replaced the cord. I ran it on the bench and it came right up no problem. Got the belt unstuck from the
upper sheave, and reinstalled the motor. Plugged it in and. .... same issue, bound right up and popped the breaker. The headstock spins smoothly by hand, and the motor works without the belt. Is the motor ready for a rebuild? I have numerous motor rebuilder's in the area that aren't too overly impressed with themselves. What could I be missing?
Jeff Wagener
Jdwags
Rathdrum, Idaho
Mark VII 2021 with Band Saw
Mark V 1986
Belt Sander, Jointer, Band Saw
Jdwags
Rathdrum, Idaho
Mark VII 2021 with Band Saw
Mark V 1986
Belt Sander, Jointer, Band Saw
Re: Maintaining an old, long idle Mark V
First, congratulations on your Mark 7! I built mine from a used 520 via upgrades: double tilt and DIY PowerPro. I think you will really like it. All the changes from what you have are big improvements.
If the motor runs good on the bench it is almost always good. If you are getting the headstock to a true slow speed the motor is only working slightly harder to turn the headstock. I'm assuming it is making no unusual noises and seems to be at normal speed. Most have a centrifugal start switch, you should hear it click when you turn it off on the bench as it slows. I haven't timed it but it should get up to speed very quickly on the bench, and take considerably longer to slow to a stop.
My main question is are you getting the headstock to a true slow speed? To check this, you'll want to remove the belt cover. Always make sure things are turning when adjusting speed, normally after installing a lower drive belt you are set to fast, the belt is riding high in the motor sheaves. Turning the headstock by hand, usually with a sanding disc, you can adjust the speed toward slow and the belt should gradually transition to riding high in the Idler sheaves. At slow, the belt should be near the outer edge of the Idler sheaves, maybe within 1/8". (And riding pretty deep in the motor sheaves.) Is this happening? If yes, what is the speed control indicating? (Speed indication can be way off from actual speed. It normally gets corrected by doing a high speed adjustment, but don't worry about this for now.)
Is the lower belt a Shopsmith belt? If not, do you know the size and source? Measuring the widest part, is it still at least 1/2" wide and does it look to be in good condition? Does the floating sheave on the motor shaft move freely but under a fair amount of spring tension? There should be no binding when you move it, and it should move freely over a wide range. (Don't let it slam closed.)
If you can answer these, we should have some idea how to proceed.
- David
If the motor runs good on the bench it is almost always good. If you are getting the headstock to a true slow speed the motor is only working slightly harder to turn the headstock. I'm assuming it is making no unusual noises and seems to be at normal speed. Most have a centrifugal start switch, you should hear it click when you turn it off on the bench as it slows. I haven't timed it but it should get up to speed very quickly on the bench, and take considerably longer to slow to a stop.
My main question is are you getting the headstock to a true slow speed? To check this, you'll want to remove the belt cover. Always make sure things are turning when adjusting speed, normally after installing a lower drive belt you are set to fast, the belt is riding high in the motor sheaves. Turning the headstock by hand, usually with a sanding disc, you can adjust the speed toward slow and the belt should gradually transition to riding high in the Idler sheaves. At slow, the belt should be near the outer edge of the Idler sheaves, maybe within 1/8". (And riding pretty deep in the motor sheaves.) Is this happening? If yes, what is the speed control indicating? (Speed indication can be way off from actual speed. It normally gets corrected by doing a high speed adjustment, but don't worry about this for now.)
Is the lower belt a Shopsmith belt? If not, do you know the size and source? Measuring the widest part, is it still at least 1/2" wide and does it look to be in good condition? Does the floating sheave on the motor shaft move freely but under a fair amount of spring tension? There should be no binding when you move it, and it should move freely over a wide range. (Don't let it slam closed.)
If you can answer these, we should have some idea how to proceed.
- David
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34632
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Maintaining an old, long idle Mark V
I am a bit confused here.
First the MOTOR can not cause the belt to jam in the idler pulley.
IF the belt IS jammed in the idler pulley, the quill shaft should NOT spin freely.
A jammed belt is a sign of the control sheave too far open.
A pix of the control sheave button bearing and the quadrant gear(porkchop) might provide a clue.
BTW I suggest keeping the MV after acquiring the M7.
First the MOTOR can not cause the belt to jam in the idler pulley.
IF the belt IS jammed in the idler pulley, the quill shaft should NOT spin freely.
A jammed belt is a sign of the control sheave too far open.
A pix of the control sheave button bearing and the quadrant gear(porkchop) might provide a clue.
BTW I suggest keeping the MV after acquiring the M7.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange