Router collet adapter.

[reible]

Hi,

Sorry for the link problem, I thought I fixed it but something happened so it was still wrong... so I started all over and now it seems to working (for me at least).

OK a few things about router bits. If you buy a new bit they often put a coating on it to prevent corrosion. Sometimes it dry, sometimes feels oily sometime are indeed clean. Some manufactures have a label or note in the box reminding you to clean the bit... sometimes they don't. And while not all bit need cleaning I do it anyway. (If you get bits with a waxy or soft plastic goop on the cutter they are often the "wet" protected ones and you will notice that on your hands while taking the coating off... some times the package the bit comes in will show an oily stain... I'd say at least half of the bits I've gotten need cleaning for sure.)

The collet system normal has a nut and collet pair, one for each size bit that they support. Common sizes here are 1/4" and 1/2" and sometimes 3/8". If the router has markets else where you might end up with say an 8mm size.... The collet collects dust while being used and if you happen to put in a new bit with a protective film on it the dust collets in that. You need to clean them from time to time. They even sell a brush set if you want to spend the money. Some of them are also very sensitive to things like being tightened with no bit it place... Since they are keeping that 28,000 RPM bit in the router you should take care of them. I have gotten one new router that the 1/4" collet would not hold, I called they sent me a new one no question... I've had to replace one from years of use.

Certain bits with spiral twists can attempt to pull them selves out or to push them selves in. Of course you don't want either of those things happen. This can also happen with other bits that present loads that either push or pull towards or away from the router.

You don't want the bits to deep in the collet for a couple of reasons. One is the bit where the shaft meets the cutter head often has a small radius... if you attempt to grip there the bit will seem tight but will not be, it is trying to hold on to the very small end of the radius and it will not be able to do that for long... you end up with a bit that changes depth and gets loose. The other thing that can happen is the bit contacts the bottom of the hole in the shaft of the router. When the collet is attempting to pull the bit in and lock it... well it can't do it, there is no room. Even if it does you might find the bit and collet are "stuck" in the router... no room for the collet to release. Besides the shaft of the router transmits vibrations and heat to the bit... also things you don't like to have happen.

Some places sell an "O" ring that goes on the shaft of the bit and prevents the "radus" problem... they also sell one that drops in the hole so you can't hit metal to metal. I personally think it better to learn to do it right.

About now or 30 or 40 words back some one must be asking so "how far do you put the bit in?" The best way to do that on routers where the collet and nut come out is to take a bit and slide it in the collet. when the end of the bit exposes it self you now have an idea of the "grip" area. It might be as small as 1/4" or maybe more like 3/4" depending on the router and the size of collet. So once the bit is exposed it really doesn't need to go any farther in... but it has to go at least that far. Like in baseball it is often better to choke up on the bat so is a good idea to put the bit in farther. When you go deeper one of two thing will control that depth, first the router bit will bottom out, when that happens pull it back out say an 1/16' to 1/8". The other thing that can happen is the bit will go to far and the "radius" issure comes in to play... so again pull the bit out 1/8". Any where between is far game but deeper is better.

When ever you can it is better to use 1/2" shaft bits they are much stronger... goes for buy bits or sets... if you have to use 1/4" shaft bits take lighter cuts and slow your router movements as much as you can.

Got more questions?

ed

[beeg]

IF you have the bit on the radius, could it get welded in?

[reible]

Hi,

Haven't seen or heard of that happening... but who know, almost anything can happen, especially if the bit and collect were to be slipping and generating a LOT of heat.

Ed

IF you have the bit on the radius, could it get welded in?

[Gene Howe]

First of all, thanks for all of your replies.

I think the problem has been identified. It was the 1/4" adapter. It must have been a hair to large or "wallered" out. Although, a visual inspection revealed nothing. Changed adapters and everything was hunky-dory.

Never have this problem with 1/2" shanks!

I just wish it wasn't such a d%#$^% hassle to change over to a dado set up.

I think I'll look for an extra table w/o the JT rails and leave it set up for dados.

Anybody got an extra 500 table they're willing to sell?