Miter gauge feet/sliders
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Miter gauge feet/sliders
The Shopsmith miter gauge has 2 nylon "feet" for lack of a better term that keep it level on the table. I thought these were adjustable with the hex tool or a flathead screwdriver, but I can't get either of them to turn. You can clearly see threads in the hole. One of the feet has moved above the surface of the gauge, so it rocks slightly on the table. I seem to recall reading a long time ago about how to adjust them, but I can't get them to move with either the hex tool or a flathead. Any suggestions/tips? Thanks
- dusty
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Re: Miter gauge feet/sliders
Yes, they should be adjustable. How to make them so -- no suggestions.
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Dusty
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Dusty
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Re: Miter gauge feet/sliders
There are two (at least) types. But it sounds like you have tried both of the methods I know. The flat head type is adjusted from the bottom using a screwdriver, the other is adjusted from the top, IIRC standard SS 5/32" hex. Sometimes there is a setscrew in the way to access from the top. How old is your machine? Can you post a pic of your miter gauge from the bottom?bpress1954 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 18, 2021 3:43 pm The Shopsmith miter gauge has 2 nylon "feet" for lack of a better term that keep it level on the table. I thought these were adjustable with the hex tool or a flathead screwdriver, but I can't get either of them to turn. You can clearly see threads in the hole. One of the feet has moved above the surface of the gauge, so it rocks slightly on the table. I seem to recall reading a long time ago about how to adjust them, but I can't get them to move with either the hex tool or a flathead. Any suggestions/tips? Thanks
Correction - My old ones adjust from the top using a small flathead screwdriver, not a hex as I previously said. This is on a '57 Greenie. The others I've seen use a large flathead to adjust from the bottom.
- David
- JPG
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Re: Miter gauge feet/sliders
The older with nylon screws are adjusted from the two threaded bores that may also have a 5/16-18 set screw that is used to secure the cross cut stop rod. It requires a small diameter shaft on the screw driver(must slip through the 5/16" threads). The screws are set screws(no head) and are slotted. They have a very small footprint on the bottom.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- chapmanruss
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Re: Miter gauge feet/sliders
David and JPG are both correct in-so-far as there are two different types of glides and the set screw type used slotted not hex early on. A picture of the two Miter Glide types is shown below. If your glides are the set screw type, shown on the right, do make sure the set screws for locking the Miter Gaage Stop Rod is removed first. They sit above the glides in the threaded hole and are generally Allen/hex set screws.. If you have an early Mark 5 try a standard screw driver first or if you have a later Mark V try an Allen Wrench first. The Allen Wrench size for both the stop rod set screws and the glides should be 5/32". I have found them stripped out before and had to remove them like a stripped screw. They are nylon so much easier than removing a metal stripped screw. The set screw type can be found at some larger hardware stores having a good selection of nuts, bolts, washers, etc. The type of glide on the left is, of course, slotted which is exposed.
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Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
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Re: Miter gauge feet/sliders
Mine is the one on the right. I have tried various methods but still cannot get them to turn. I'm going to see about removing them as suggested and see about replacing them. Thanks all.
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Re: Miter gauge feet/sliders
My machine was purchased in 1982 so I don't know if that classifies it as "early."
- JPG
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Re: Miter gauge feet/sliders
IF your is the one on the right in de pix, then it is early enough!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
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Re: Miter gauge feet/sliders
You are dealing with a plastic(deforms under stress) and they tend to get stuck. The 'slot' is thick so a mating screwdriver is unlikely. Try to find one that is both small enough to reach the screw slot and thick enough to fill the slot and wide enough to transfer the torque. I have one modified for this purpose.(1/4" round shank and ground down(thick) tip).
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Miter gauge feet/sliders
You might also try some penetrating oil like liquid wrench. One of mine was stuck and that helped. The custom screwdriver JPG mentioned sounds like a good idea.bpress1954 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 21, 2021 1:16 pm Mine is the one on the right. I have tried various methods but still cannot get them to turn. I'm going to see about removing them as suggested and see about replacing them. Thanks all.
- David