jsburger
I have purchased the urathane band saw tires for my SS band saw. What is the best way to remove the old tires?
chiroindixon
I did it several months ago. Like getting the old sandpaper off a sanding disc, I put the wheels in an oven set at 200F for 30 minutes.
Then with gloves, remove and clamp wheel in a vise. A sharp chisel wielded carefully, took the old rubber off. Go slow and easy. The metal is soft.
Per "Jan" at Shopsmith, be sure to get ALL the old rubber off. I then cleaned wheels with mineral spirits. You might have to sand the small stubble off.
I wrestled the new tires on by myself. Having another hand would have helped. There was some cussin' because they are a tight fit.
It's worth the effort. Bandsaw runs and tracks much smoother....
Have fun...
Bill-Co
I also purchased new tires. I have had aproblem with the tires slipping off the wheels. Has anyone else had this problem? The wheels were clean with nothing left on them from the old tires.
Thanks for any help you can give.
deathwish2
Bill-Co wroteI also purchased new tires. I have had aproblem with the tires slipping off the wheels. Has anyone else had this problem? The wheels were clean with nothing left on them from the old tires.
Thanks for any help you can give.
With Bicycle grips, the 'lubricant' used to slip them on is 'hairspray' . . . when it dries, it acts as a fixative . . . I do not see why that wouldn't work with BS tires.
However . . . Here is what Carter has to say about their tires . . .
http://www.carterproducts.com/support/UrethaneInstall.pdf
URETHANE BAND SAW TIRE INSTALLATION
Wheel Preparation:
1. Clean the work area of sawdust.
2. Clean the rim of the wheel using lacquer thinner or another solvent.
3. Finish prepping the wheel surface by removing any solvent residue with denatured alcohol leaving a clean smooth surface.
Urethane Tire Installation Instructions:
1. Submerge Urethane tire in a mixture of water and dish soap heated to at least 120 degree F for five minutes for easier installation.
2. Remove tires from soapy water and immediately slide them over the band saw wheel. CAUTION: Water and tire will be
extremely hot, use gloves to protect your hands.
3. Make sure tire is seated correctly on wheel and evenly distributed around the wheel to prevent an out of balance wheel.
4. Let tire cool completely without blade installed before running band saw.
burnsrk
I just put on a pair last week. I put them on about halfway around the wheel then used a couple of Irwin Quick Grip hand clamps to keep the tires from slipping off. I then was able to stretch them on the rest of the way without alot of effort. I just started at the clamps and stretched the tires onto the wheels as I moved away from them Since I didn't have to heat them, I was able to use the bandsaw immediately.
burnsrk
I used a wire brush wheel on a grinder to get the old tires off and thought it worked very well.
Kevin
nimrod
burnsrk wroteI used a wire brush wheel on a grinder to get the old tires off and thought it worked very well.
Kevin
Me too. I've removed 3 different sets of old tires, and never had a problem.
I use the corner of a screwdriver to peel/pry/pull the tire away from the wheel in one spot, then stick the screwdriver between the tire and wheel and gently roll it loose. The tires always come off in one piece, with a minimum amount of old glue left on the wheel.
I use automotive brake cleaner to dissolve the old glue, then finish/buff with the wire wheel.
sconi
In addition to the methods mentioned previously - in particular careful scraping with a chisel; I found that a liberal application of Goo Gone helps a lot, first I made a cut across the face of the tire and pulled off as much as possible by hand, then pour on the goo gone, let it sit for 15 minuets or more, but not to the point of drying out, it makes removal much simpler, it did take a couple of applications to get it all done, use of an old toothbrush for final cleaning with mineral sprits worked fine too, be sure to wear eye protection to avoid any painful splashes from the toothbrush action.
paulmcohen
jsburger wroteI have purchased the urathane band saw tires for my SS band saw. What is the best way to remove the old tires?
Hire your "son", it took mine about 3 hours, first pliers, then an Exacto knife and finally a Dremal tool with brass brush bit. He went through 4 brass brushes in the process.
I love the new tire:)
ericolson
I put my new tires in the oven at 250 degress for five minutes. Just enough to heat them up and make them flexible and stretchy. Then I put the tires on the wheels fairly quickly. As the tires cool they contract and "lock" onto the wheel. Piece-o-cake! Just don't forget you've got urethane tires in the oven. Spouses, girlfriends, fiancees don't appreciate that very much.
Eric
Nick
John, we have been getting some complaints about these tires coming off. The vendor who supplies them is concerned and he came up today to talk about the problem. What he had to say was this: When he put in the order to the manufacturer for Shopsmith tires, he thought he specified 11" diameter wheels; but the tires that came back to him were made for 12" wheels. He didn't catch the screw-up, passed them on to us, and we passed them on to customers. The larger tires slip off our small wheels; standard adhesives won't stick to the urethane material well enough to keep them on the rims.
How do you know if you have the wrong size tire? Measure the circumference with a tape measure when the tire is off the wheel. Each tire should be 30" from seam to seam, give or take a fraction of an inch. If they are 32-1/2" or thereabouts, the tires are intended for 12" rims and are too big for Shopsmith bandsaws. Send them back to us and we'll make it right.
You also need to be careful about overspeeding the urethane tires. The bandsaw should run at about 1050 rpm -- "D" on the speed dial. The original rubber tires will stand up to three times that speed (3000 rpm) in tests we have done at the factory. The urethane tires, however, loosen at 2000 rpm -- even the tires that are the correct size.
With all good wishes,
paulmcohen
I guess the other way to know you have the correct tire size is if it took three people, heat, lub and some clamps to get the new tire on you most likely have the correct size.:)
Thanks for the tip on the wrong size tire.
eldyfig
So, I take it urethane tires are the way to go and much worth it?
charlese
eldyfig wroteSo, I take it urethane tires are the way to go and much worth it?
Not for this guy! I am one that prefers rubber tires. I've been running on the rubber for over 8 years and they still look and perform like almost new. They have been down in South Texas, in the heat and humidity from the Gulf. They have been here in the desert for another four years. The heat in my shop, sometimes reaches over 100 degrees of dry heat. Just a little silicone on the rubber at cleaning times has helped preserve them quite well. I have a spare pair hanging in a cabinet just in case I'll ever need them, but don't think they will need replaced. No need to change what is working.
Incidentally, silicone will repel sawdust, but don't use it carelessly. I understand silicone when it get on wood will severely harm the ability of that wood to take on a finish.
keakap
charlese wroteNot for this guy! I am one that prefers rubber tires. I've been ...ced. ... No need to change what is working.
/QUOTE]
A few days ago I would have disagreed. Was having great success with the urethane tires (which I foolishly replaced the old rubbers with only because I had a set of ureys deliverd by accident).
What changed my outlook (new replacement parts on order) was the urey tires deciding they'd had enough, apparently, and without so much as two weeks notice decided to quit. And it was a hostile departure. Took out a 5/8" blade and the top wheel, etc.
The new wheels will be dressed in black rubber, fer sher.
bosox
eldyfig wroteSo, I take it urethane tires are the way to go and much worth it?
I have been advised before to use urethane tires than rubber tires. I found it effective though.
My friend told me that urethane tires are specifically designed to improve the classical rubber tires we are using in our band saw machines. They are expected to last longer than rubber tires and are easy to put up in your wheel. No need for gluing. If you have a working rubber tire for now, It could save you some penny if you use it up until it’s torn out. But if you’re really planning to buy new tires and is choosing between urethane or rubber, I would suggest you to have urethane as a better option. I have been in your situation before and I came up using urethane tires.
JPG
bosox wroteI have been advised before to use urethane tires than rubber tires. I found it effective though.
My friend told me that urethane tires are specifically designed to improve the classical rubber tires we are using in our band saw machines. They are expected to last longer than rubber tires and are easy to put up in your wheel. No need for gluing. If you have a working rubber tire for now, It could save you some penny if you use it up until it’s torn out. But if you’re really planning to buy new tires and is choosing between urethane or rubber, I would suggest you to have urethane as a better option. I have been in your situation before and I came up using urethane tires.
I would be interested in knowing what 'specific designing' was done to 'improve' other than ease of installing.
23loaldo
Being a brand-new mwmber and being totally clueless about the propewr procedure for asking a question, I will throw it out here and see what happens. I have a Mark 5 machine S/N 325015, Green in color. Got it recently on a garage sale and it works just fine; saw, drill press, sander and lathe. I then purchased, sight unseen, a Magna 11" band saw trhat has yet to be delivered. I hope that the Magna bandsaw will fit on this Shopsmith. Any comments from the audience?? Next, I think the bandsaw will be driven bt the upper spindle on the headstockj/power unit via some sort of a coupling. Right so far? Now, it is possible that such a coupling will come with the bandsaw, but if not, what is the next step? I see that couplings are for sale for $10-$20 but quite a few of the user reviews give them a poor rating. Can a handy individual fabricate his own??? If so, should it be a solid steel shaft or a "flexible" shaft from PVC or some sort of fiberglass? Has anyone out there ever done this,i.e.,,make your own? I have a pretty complete machine shop so metal turning is not a problem. It appears that the coupling would attach to the driving shaft on the powerhead with two set screws, and presumably the same to the bandsaw drive wheel. Hoping to get some comments/advice from this forum. Thanks in advance, Tom in Vermont
terrydowning
for my money (As well as personal safety) I would go straight from the mother ship on this one.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/powercoupler.htm
reible
I second that and check the price for 2, a bit better of a deal. BTW I have yet to have one fail in 36 years, of course since I have several they share the load so to speak.
Ed
