Noisy Jointer
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Noisy Jointer
I have had an old all grey SS jointer that is mounted on a stand with a separate motor, I used it for a while and then it sat in my garage for about 8 to 10 years. Recently, I dug it out and refurbished it. I completely disassembled it, every nut and bolt, I cleaned up a lot of surface rust and put in brand new blades and bearings. Tonight I remounted it to the stand making sure that the motor pulley and cutter shaft pully were parallel. Before I put the belt on I made sure that the cutter head spun freely. I attached the belt and adjusted the tension.
When I fired it up it was very noisy. I pulled the belt and rechecked the cutter head it all seemed ok. But I decided to realign the cutter head so the shaft was perpendicular to the fence. I loosened the two bearing pillow block screws. I used a small machinist square on the Infeed table, just touching one of the blades to align it. I then retightened the screws,
I fired it back up and it is still seems noisy. So now to my question. Since I don't really remember what it originally sounded like, and I stupidly didn't fire it up before I started the refurb, I'd like to ask someone in the group make a recording of their jointer running. Preferably a stand mounted one. Maybe it is supposed to be noisy, but it doesn't "seem right".
Thanks in advance.
When I fired it up it was very noisy. I pulled the belt and rechecked the cutter head it all seemed ok. But I decided to realign the cutter head so the shaft was perpendicular to the fence. I loosened the two bearing pillow block screws. I used a small machinist square on the Infeed table, just touching one of the blades to align it. I then retightened the screws,
I fired it back up and it is still seems noisy. So now to my question. Since I don't really remember what it originally sounded like, and I stupidly didn't fire it up before I started the refurb, I'd like to ask someone in the group make a recording of their jointer running. Preferably a stand mounted one. Maybe it is supposed to be noisy, but it doesn't "seem right".
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by garyshell on Sun Nov 28, 2021 12:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Noisy Jointer
Hello Gary
Doug Reid has at least one video on his YT channel in which he uses his SS jointer. That might help you with your question, although he might have the sound of the machinery muted somewhat?
I am scheduled to go pick up a jointer and a 510 early this week. If you haven't found a video to help you with your question, I will make one for you.
Rob
Doug Reid has at least one video on his YT channel in which he uses his SS jointer. That might help you with your question, although he might have the sound of the machinery muted somewhat?
I am scheduled to go pick up a jointer and a 510 early this week. If you haven't found a video to help you with your question, I will make one for you.
Rob
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3488
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Noisy Jointer
garyshell,
Sorry I don't have a recording for you of a running Jointer to share besides I would have to run my 4E Jointer on my Model 10ER to have one run by a belt so not the same as your setup. There are some possibilities as to why it is running "noisy". Is anything rubbing like the belt or blades, as it turns? The Jointer itself has only the one moving assembly, the cutter head. Noise from it would most likely be the bearings which you said you replaced. The only other noise it could make would be the blades "hitting" the table as it rotates. Other possible causes for noise could be the motor and its bearings or the belt not being the correct tension. Noise from the bearings would more likely be a squeal and a different noise from the belt or something rubbing.
Without the belt attached is the motor noisy when running? You said the Cutter Head seems okay so I take it that as there isn't anywhere the blades are hitting the table or noisy when rotated by hand. That would leave the belt. Is it tensioned properly so it is not "flapping" as it rotates? It could be the belt has sat so long it developed a "memory" on the pulleys and the noise is caused by it being less flexible straightening the part that has curved around the pulley sitting for so long and back as the belt rotates around. I hope that makes sense as I have tried to explain it. To say it simpler if the belt is no longer flexible maybe a new belt is the answer.
Sorry I don't have a recording for you of a running Jointer to share besides I would have to run my 4E Jointer on my Model 10ER to have one run by a belt so not the same as your setup. There are some possibilities as to why it is running "noisy". Is anything rubbing like the belt or blades, as it turns? The Jointer itself has only the one moving assembly, the cutter head. Noise from it would most likely be the bearings which you said you replaced. The only other noise it could make would be the blades "hitting" the table as it rotates. Other possible causes for noise could be the motor and its bearings or the belt not being the correct tension. Noise from the bearings would more likely be a squeal and a different noise from the belt or something rubbing.
Without the belt attached is the motor noisy when running? You said the Cutter Head seems okay so I take it that as there isn't anywhere the blades are hitting the table or noisy when rotated by hand. That would leave the belt. Is it tensioned properly so it is not "flapping" as it rotates? It could be the belt has sat so long it developed a "memory" on the pulleys and the noise is caused by it being less flexible straightening the part that has curved around the pulley sitting for so long and back as the belt rotates around. I hope that makes sense as I have tried to explain it. To say it simpler if the belt is no longer flexible maybe a new belt is the answer.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Re: Noisy Jointer
Mine on a Powerpro makes a nice consistent hum...kind of reminds me a low pitched RC airplane.
Re: Noisy Jointer
The motor is quiet and the cutter head turns without any rubbing. But I think you are spot on with the belt. It most assuredly has developed a memory and lost its flexibility. So I am betting that is the issue. I have a link belt on my Jet table saw and it has retained it flexibility for a long time. I am going to see if I can get one of them that is the proper width for the SS pulleys.chapmanruss wrote: ↑Sat Nov 27, 2021 1:07 pm garyshell,
Without the belt attached is the motor noisy when running? You said the Cutter Head seems okay so I take it that as there isn't anywhere the blades are hitting the table or noisy when rotated by hand. That would leave the belt. Is it tensioned properly so it is not "flapping" as it rotates? It could be the belt has sat so long it developed a "memory" on the pulleys and the noise is caused by it being less flexible straightening the part that has curved around the pulley sitting for so long and back as the belt rotates around. I hope that makes sense as I have tried to explain it. To say it simpler if the belt is no longer flexible maybe a new belt is the answer.
Thanks for the diagnosis.
Re: Noisy Jointer
Update...
I bought two link belts one for the jointer and one for the bandsaw. As I was putting the new belt on the jointer, I thought I'd give the motor a listen by itself. Turns out IT was a source of some of the vibration, Truth be told, I suspect it is providing much of it. So I tore the motor out of the stand and put it on my bench and fired it up. Yep lots of vibration. I took the large pulley off of it and fired it up again and it is much smoother. The pulley does not appear to be out of round or anything but the flange that holds the retaining screw to hold the pulley on the shaft is a bit of a bulge that would likely make it be out of balance.
You can see the bulge on the right in the attached photo. The motor runs at 3450 rpm, so I suspect that much offset mass is the source of the vibration.
Any thoughts? Should I consider buying a new pulley without that bulge, i.e. one with the same mass all the way around?
I bought two link belts one for the jointer and one for the bandsaw. As I was putting the new belt on the jointer, I thought I'd give the motor a listen by itself. Turns out IT was a source of some of the vibration, Truth be told, I suspect it is providing much of it. So I tore the motor out of the stand and put it on my bench and fired it up. Yep lots of vibration. I took the large pulley off of it and fired it up again and it is much smoother. The pulley does not appear to be out of round or anything but the flange that holds the retaining screw to hold the pulley on the shaft is a bit of a bulge that would likely make it be out of balance.
You can see the bulge on the right in the attached photo. The motor runs at 3450 rpm, so I suspect that much offset mass is the source of the vibration.
Any thoughts? Should I consider buying a new pulley without that bulge, i.e. one with the same mass all the way around?
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3488
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Noisy Jointer
I guess there is two choices here, replace the pulley with a balanced one or get the current pulley balanced. To avoid this problem pulleys usually have an opposite "bulge" to keep them balanced when there is extra material for the set screw like the one shown in the picture below.
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Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Re: Noisy Jointer
Thanks, chapmanruss. I was looking at replacements and noticed ones with the opposite bulge and assumed it was for this very reason. You validated my thinking.chapmanruss wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 2:08 pm I guess there is two choices here, replace the pulley with a balanced one or get the current pulley balanced. To avoid this problem pulleys usually have an opposite "bulge" to keep them balanced when there is extra material for the set screw like the one shown in the picture below.
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5 inch Pulley.jpg
Re: Noisy Jointer
Was the pulley mounted with a key, set screw, or both? And does the motor shaft have a flat or slot for a key? The bulge in the photo seems to be in an odd place, perhaps there to balance mounting with just a set screw and no key.
Ed from Rhode Island
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
Re: Noisy Jointer
The shaft has no keyway or a flat so it is mounted only via a set screw. The pulley is made to accommodate a key, if the shaft had one.
As big as the bulge is, I don't see how it ever could be balanced. I am going to seek out a new pulley with a corresponding bulge 180 degrees from the first one or ideally one with no bulge at all, i.e. with a continuous structure all the way around the shaft to accommodate a set screw.