Suggestions for Preventing Burn marks

judaspre1982 · Post by **judaspre1982** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:12 pm

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charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:28 pm

Dave, I was able to stop most burn marks on edges by ALWAYS using the upper blade guard and splitter. Also not ripping oak at speed "P" slowing the blade to the lower side of speed "O" helped quite a bit.

Cross cuts and miters have never been a problem with Speed "O".

I think blade speed is a major contributer here.

judaspre1982 · Post by **judaspre1982** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:41 pm

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a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 8:42 pm

Hi Dave,

It has been my experience, when ripping oak, that the pieces tend to come together after passing through the blade. When that happened, I got burn marks. The splitter will help prevent that. For the purposes of preventing burn marks, the upper saw guard is irrelevant, but do use a splitter, even if you make your own like dusty has done.

judaspre1982 · Post by **judaspre1982** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:10 pm

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a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:45 pm

While you are looking, check this thread out: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1515&highlight=splitter

And actually dusty made a riving knife, knot a splitter. Here is the link. Be sure to look at the attached picture in the first post: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1658&highlight=riving+knife

judaspre1982 · Post by **judaspre1982** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:57 pm

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reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:23 am

Hi,

It sounds like most of this has been covered and I'm not in the mood to go back and read all the older posts so this might have been mentioned somewhere else but just in case it wasn't.

When you make a rip cut and then look at the two pieces are they burned at the same places? Also do you see a lot of blade arc's on the wood, one or both sides?

Several things can be happening. If the wood has not been jointed to a smooth edge and that is against the fence, the lack of a true edge will show up in the cut some times as burns.

If things are moving, fence, quill is not locked or can't be locked, loose arbor, bent or bending blade, table is flexing or tipping... lots of things can happen.

If you are seeing burning and it is on the part next to the fence and the other side is not burning it means the fence is not square to the blade.

If the arc marks can be checked to see if it is the mark is made by the initial cutting or by the the blade as the teeth pass on the out feed side.

So this is either a repeat of new material but that is about all I can add.

Ed

judaspre1982 · Post by **judaspre1982** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:09 pm

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easterngray · Post by **easterngray** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:35 pm

Rick Davis address this issue on his maintenance and alignment DVD. In the instructions he gives for aligning the fence to the blade he suggests that burning can be avoided by folding a dollar bill and putting it between the fence and the piece of wood inserted in the mitre slot for the alignment process, on the outfeed end of the fence, before tightening your fence adjustment bolts. Please note that this is for when you lock the actual bolts on the fence, not the handle lockdown. I thinks I'm remembering this correctly.. If you watch the dvd you'll see what I mean..

It's a good one. Alec