Changing headstock lock and dropping motor pan
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Changing headstock lock and dropping motor pan
I am helping someone try out replacing a Total Shop headstock with a Shopsmith headstock according to this post from Bill Mayo some time ago: viewtopic.php?p=193186&sid=d34c05026c5c ... cc#p193186
"I have replaced a few Total Shop headstocks with the Shopsmith headstock. The Total [Shop] stock way tubes are 1.675" compared to the Shopsmiths 1.75" way tubes. I found that by using reconditioned lock wedges in the Shopsmith headstock, the headstock will lock down with perfect alignment on the 1.675" way tubes."
Is there a simple way to disconnect the main drive belt and drop the motor pan and motor with sheaves and spring intact to get to the headstock locking assembly? WIth the motor pan loose is there enough movement to get the belt off the sheaves?
No specifics on reconditioning the wedges but it should mainly be a matter of a small change to the angled parts to conform to the sides of the slightly smaller tubes.
"I have replaced a few Total Shop headstocks with the Shopsmith headstock. The Total [Shop] stock way tubes are 1.675" compared to the Shopsmiths 1.75" way tubes. I found that by using reconditioned lock wedges in the Shopsmith headstock, the headstock will lock down with perfect alignment on the 1.675" way tubes."
Is there a simple way to disconnect the main drive belt and drop the motor pan and motor with sheaves and spring intact to get to the headstock locking assembly? WIth the motor pan loose is there enough movement to get the belt off the sheaves?
No specifics on reconditioning the wedges but it should mainly be a matter of a small change to the angled parts to conform to the sides of the slightly smaller tubes.
Ed from Rhode Island
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
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Re: Changing headstock lock and dropping motor pan
Dropping the motor pan with the motor inside and still attached is how I have always removed the motor when I needed to. The V-belt comes off with a little wiggling once the motor and pan are dropped. Is the Shopsmith headstock still on the Shopsmith way tubes? If so, I can explain further how I do it. If the Shopsmith headstock is already removed for the Shopsmith way tubes, then it should be fairly easy. You may have to disconnect the wires at the switch. I have found it simpler for me to remove the switch from the headstock, then remove the wires from the switch after pulling the switch out thru the access hole. You may not need to actually pull the wires from the switch, unless you want the motor completely disconnected from the headstock.
Re: Changing headstock lock and dropping motor pan
Thank you. The headstock is off the way tubes. Pulling out the switch from the back is a good idea, it's probably the only impediment to moving the motor and pan around to get the belt off. Still gotta watch out for that spring. I was taking a machine apart just for the parts and the spring suddenly released. Luckily it didn't hit me until it ricocheted off a couple of other things first.
Thanks again, makes this look much more doable.
Thanks again, makes this look much more doable.
Ed from Rhode Island
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
Re: Changing headstock lock and dropping motor pan
We just tried taking out the motor on another headstock I was going to disassemble for maintenance anyway. I cranked the speed dial up to high so the belt was up near the outer edge already and with the switch out it was a piece of cake to tilt it a little and slip the belt off. I hope to hear soon a headstock is working on his Total Shop.
Ed from Rhode Island
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
Re: Changing headstock lock and dropping motor pan
I have just inherited my father's ShopSmith.
The machine is from about 1955, and was "built under licence in Australia"
the serial number is 916
It is missing the wedge lock on the headstock.
Can I simply swap the lock from the Quill until I get a new lock?
Where can I get a new lock?
Bob
The machine is from about 1955, and was "built under licence in Australia"
the serial number is 916
It is missing the wedge lock on the headstock.
Can I simply swap the lock from the Quill until I get a new lock?
Where can I get a new lock?
Bob
Re: Changing headstock lock and dropping motor pan
Welcome to the forum. New parts are available from Shopsmith. Used parts are frequently available on eBay and other sources. Are you missing the entire wedge lock, to include the threaded rod that goes through the headstock, wedges, handle? I don't think any of the quill lock parts are interchangeable or useful. If you can post some pictures it may be easier.
This link will get you to Headstock Service Parts for the current conventional headstock. Much has changed from your '55: https://www.shopsmith.com/service/headstock/index.htm
Note- IIRC there is something different about early wedge lock assemblies making removal and reinstallation challenging, and I think the threaded rod has to be cut out. Maybe no access to drive the pin out of the handle.(???) So watch for that. The rod itself has both left- and right-hand threads for the locks.
- David
- chapmanruss
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Re: Changing headstock lock and dropping motor pan
BobT,
Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. First, I have to ask what Model of Shopsmith you have. You describe it as
_ .
If it is a Mark 5 it would look like the one below.
_ .
As you can see they are very different Shopsmith tools. If you have a Model 10E than it should have the single wedge locks but the handle for the Quill lock is different than the Headstock lock for the way tubes. The carriage lock should be the same as the Headstock lock. Replacement parts for the Model 10's must be found on the used market such as auctions on ebay.
David's description and information is for a Mark 5.
Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. First, I have to ask what Model of Shopsmith you have. You describe it as
This description leads me to believe it is a Shopsmith Model 10E as it was called in Australia. It actually compares to a Model 10ER and would look the one pictured below except it should have an additional nameplate on the lower right corner of the Headstock.from about 1955 and was "built under license in Australia" the serial number is 916
_ .
If it is a Mark 5 it would look like the one below.
_ .
As you can see they are very different Shopsmith tools. If you have a Model 10E than it should have the single wedge locks but the handle for the Quill lock is different than the Headstock lock for the way tubes. The carriage lock should be the same as the Headstock lock. Replacement parts for the Model 10's must be found on the used market such as auctions on ebay.
David's description and information is for a Mark 5.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Re: Changing headstock lock and dropping motor pan
Russ, Thanks for the ID.
After a very careful look at a very faded nameplate, I saw it is a Model 10E.
And it does have the small extra nameplate, of a now long-gone enginering company.
Now to track down a replacement lock, or make one.
Currently, I am using a truck-style tie down strap to hold the headstock to the saw table.
The only difference was that my father built a cabinet to replace the table legs, which is very handy.
thx, Bob T
After a very careful look at a very faded nameplate, I saw it is a Model 10E.
And it does have the small extra nameplate, of a now long-gone enginering company.
Now to track down a replacement lock, or make one.
Currently, I am using a truck-style tie down strap to hold the headstock to the saw table.
The only difference was that my father built a cabinet to replace the table legs, which is very handy.
thx, Bob T
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3480
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Changing headstock lock and dropping motor pan
The picture below shows the single and double wedge Locks used for the Headstock and Carriage.
_ .
The top two lock assemblies are single wedge locks and show both sides of the wedge. The top is a Quill Lock and the middle is a Headstock or Carriage Lock. Note the difference in the lever (handle). The lower is a double wedge lock for reference. Your Australian made Model 10E should have the single wedge locks but I cannot be sure since it was one made in Australia and may have earlier part versions. I haven't seen any detailed pictures of one to know if they have earlier part versions. Look inside the lock bore to see if it has a threaded back (for single) or if the bore is all the way through (for double). The Headstock and Carriage Locks are normally the same either double (earlier production) or single (later production) wedges for the locks. The Quill Lock differs in the Lever (handle) shape and some mid-production Quill Locks were keyed.
Right now the only locks for sale on ebay are a double wedge Quill Lock and a double wedge Headstock/Carriage Lock. There are two Carriage assemblies for sale and one is a single wedge lock and the other is a double wedge lock. You could buy the single wedge lock Carriage for sale if that is the lock type you need.
_ .
The top two lock assemblies are single wedge locks and show both sides of the wedge. The top is a Quill Lock and the middle is a Headstock or Carriage Lock. Note the difference in the lever (handle). The lower is a double wedge lock for reference. Your Australian made Model 10E should have the single wedge locks but I cannot be sure since it was one made in Australia and may have earlier part versions. I haven't seen any detailed pictures of one to know if they have earlier part versions. Look inside the lock bore to see if it has a threaded back (for single) or if the bore is all the way through (for double). The Headstock and Carriage Locks are normally the same either double (earlier production) or single (later production) wedges for the locks. The Quill Lock differs in the Lever (handle) shape and some mid-production Quill Locks were keyed.
Right now the only locks for sale on ebay are a double wedge Quill Lock and a double wedge Headstock/Carriage Lock. There are two Carriage assemblies for sale and one is a single wedge lock and the other is a double wedge lock. You could buy the single wedge lock Carriage for sale if that is the lock type you need.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.