10ER questions. New to the group

[whiteb01]

New guy on the forum and new to Shopsmith. I just got a 10ER and really don't know anything about Shopsmith at all, except what I've read here and there in the last 24 hours. this thing is pretty dirty and rusty but it does run. I plan on getting it cleaned up to use, I won't make a show piece out of it. I was just wondering what you folks could tell me. I know that it is missing a Lever Lock and the hose clamps are an aftermarket upgrade when the clamp got lost/broken. In some of the pictures there are two Lever Locks missing but I took one of them out myself. It's back in place now.

A few of my questions
- what is the best way to clean up the way tubes? and what do I treat them with when I get them cleaned up.

- what is the knob used for that I have circled in red in one of the last pictures? It's on the end opposite the pivot and there is another knob on the outside of that bracket that tightens everything down when it is horizontal. It goes in a ways and stops, I'm not sure it even goes there.

- What are the must haves? I know I need a drill chuck and would like to put live center on for the lathe. I also need the lathe tool rest and the head attachment for the lathe. I need a Rip fence as well.

- Where is the best place for a fella to go to find parts. Is there a Shopsmith salvage yard somewhere you can order from?

- What do you all figure the value of something like this would be as it sets? I got it for free so I think I did ok on that part.

- What else do I need to know about it that I might not have thought of?

[benmcn]

All kinds of great information and answered in this thread

viewtopic.php?t=5074

[chapmanruss]

The link benmcn provided above has some good information and links for additional information on the Model 10's. Other helpful information can be found in the thread you originally posted in including a lot of history. Glad to see you started your own link here.

To answer the question about the extra knob circled in red it does not really belong there. That knob may be the one that goes in the Base to lock the Arm in the upright position when in Drill Press mode. There appears to be a knob on the other side of the Headrest too. The Headrest is actually mounted backwards and the hole with additional length should be to the outside of the tool for the knob/screw to go into to lock the Tie Bar to the Headrest. There should also be more of the Way Tubes extending out from the Tie Bar so the Tailstock with the Extension Table can be mounted on that end to the Shopsmith too.

With these additional pictures I can tell you have the 5th version of the Headstock. The difference between it and the 4th version is the width of the mounting slots on the Spring Housing and the matching casting of the Headstock having the wider ones in the version 5 Headstock and above. I hope that makes sense.

In the last picture showing the back side of the Headstock it appears that the Quill Lock Wedge is in backwards. Something else missing in that picture is the 2 nuts and square hole washer that goes on the Gauge Rod and locks the depth the Quill can extend. They also act as a stop to keep the Quill from extending too far that it comes out of the Headstock. The nuts are round knurled nuts and not standard nuts so hopefully you have those somewhere.

It is hard to tell yet if the Way Tubes simply have just surface rust or if there is some pitting too. Some pitting is not a problem as long as the rust is cleaned up and the Headstock and Carriage slide smoothly on the Tubes. Some members have recommended using Penetrol (sorry if I spelled that wrong) after removing rust from pitted surfaces which will go into the pits and protect from additional rust forming. The best protection for the Way Tubes and other bare metal parts is Johnson's Original Formula Paste Wax. It can be used after the Penetrol and will not only help protect the bare metal parts but also provides lubrication for the bare metal parts moving on each other. Manuals for the Model 10's say to use a light coat of oil for this but that quickly attracts saw dust and need to be constantly cleaned off and redone. Pretty much every time the tool is used. Paste Wax properly applied does not attract saw dust.

Changing from the Dead Center in the Tailstock to a Live Center is simply getting a center with the standard #2 Moorse taper. The current Live Center is the same as the one that would have been an optional accessory when your Shopsmith was made except the black protective coating has been added since the mid 1960's.

Getting needed parts can generally be found at the online auctions like ebay. That is where I find most of the individual parts I need when doing restorations. I wouldn't recommend buying whole or nearly whole Model 10's for parts since you could end up with a lot of extra parts and start restoring Shopsmith's like I did. 22 Model 10E and 10ER restorations to date with more to be finished. Collecting Shopsmith's can be habit forming.

As you continue to read and learn more about the Shopsmith tools you will pick up all kinds of tips to help you in both restoring your Shopsmith and for using it.

[JPG]

E-Bay is thy friend for parts.Tread cautiously when seeking wedge lock thingies.(there are too many variations - seek guidance herein).

[chapmanruss]

Below is a picture of the Locks for a Model 10ER for the Version 4 and 5 Headstocks. The top Lock Assembly is for the Quill Lock which is keyed. The other 2 Lock Assemblies are for the Headstock and Carriage Way Tube Locks. A complete assembly, going from right to left, consists of the lever with threaded end, a washer, front wedge, spring (for Quill Lock only, some had this, others did not), rear wedge and nut. The nut is recessed in the back of the rear wedge and cannot be seen in the picture of the locks below.

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Model 10ER V 4 and 5 Locks.jpg (171.35 KiB) Viewed 1197 times

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To help you in finding the knurled nuts for the Quill Stop Rod that assembly is shown below without the Quill Collar.

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Stop Rod with nuts and washer.jpg (74.78 KiB) Viewed 1197 times

[whiteb01]

With these additional pictures I can tell you have the 5th version of the Headstock. The difference between it and the 4th version is the width of the mounting slots on the Spring Housing and the matching casting of the Headstock having the wider ones in the version 5 Headstock and above. I hope that makes sense. This does make sense after you explained it. Thanks for the info.

In the last picture showing the back side of the Headstock it appears that the Quill Lock Wedge is in backwards. Something else missing in that picture is the 2 nuts and square hole washer that goes on the Gauge Rod and locks the depth the Quill can extend. They also act as a stop to keep the Quill from extending too far that it comes out of the Headstock. The nuts are round knurled nuts and not standard nuts so hopefully you have those somewhere. The Quill Lock Wedge is indeed wrong. In fact, it's the wrong one, the one showing goes on the other side. I can thank my 5 year old grandson for that. Also, I do have the Quill depth lock nuts and washer, I had just taken them off. Sometimes I start pulling stuff apart just to see how it goes together

It is hard to tell yet if the Way Tubes simply have just surface rust or if there is some pitting too. The pitting doesn't seem to be too bad and seems to mostly be surface rust. Removing the rust will be a big job but I think I can get it done and polish the tubes pretty good. I"ll make sure to wax them right away after I polish.

22 Model 10E and 10ER restorations to date with more to be finished. Collecting Shopsmith's can be habit forming. 22!!! Sounds to me like you are the resident expert. Maybe I need to look at building another shop

Thank you again. You have some great info. I have a feeling my wife isn't going to like this 'investment' as much as I do but I do enjoy the satisfaction of resurrecting old stuff so it can be used again.

[chapmanruss]

I neglected to mention the Rip Fence in my earlier posts. There were four versions of the Rip Fence made for the Model 10E and 10ER. The first was for the 10E with the wood extension table and did not have a rear lock. Later a rear accessory lock was made for them but then could not be used with the wood extension table. Versions 2, 3 and 4 all had rear locks and any of these will work for your Shopsmith. Version 2 has a screw lock that came straight out while 3 and 4 had angled locks with version 4 having a block on the end of the threaded lock knob but 3 and 4 outwardly look the same.

Version three's lock

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Model 10 Fence Base V3.jpg (120.68 KiB) Viewed 1167 times

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Version four's lock

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Model 10 Fence Base V4.jpg (96.3 KiB) Viewed 1167 times

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Below is a version two fence.

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Version 2 Rip Fence.jpg (101.12 KiB) Viewed 1167 times

[chapmanruss]

Below is a picture of one I restored that is a bit newer (S/N 55037) than yours but looks mostly the same. It differs in that it has the 2-bolt headrest and although not seen the single wedge locks. It is shown with all the items it would have come with originally and is on a bench with Shopsmith metal bench ends and retractable casters.

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10ER 55037.jpg (119.23 KiB) Viewed 1164 times

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Warning buying Shopsmith's can be habit forming

Below is 5 I had restored at one time. All but the one in back (my first restoration) has been resold.

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4708-8865-55582-R57376-R64000 full.jpg (154.69 KiB) Viewed 1164 times

[whiteb01]

Partly finished with one way tube and it's looking pretty good. I started with the one in the worst shape. I'll polish it some more and wax it then do the other one.

[JPG]

"POLISHING" is gilding the lily.