Very nicely summarized, Al!
In the third picture it appears that the gap is greater on the bottom of the joint than at the top, which makes me wonder if at some point during the cut the workpiece shifted and was no longer at 90 to the blade. The Hands On article shows a featherboard pressing the work tight against the jig to prevent this.
Miters or cross bevels on long stock
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- edflorence
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- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 8:14 pm
- Location: Idaho Panhandle
Re: Miters or cross bevels on long stock
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Re: Miters or cross bevels on long stock
I suggest using your sanding disk to finish the miter ends of these pieces. Cut them a little over then clamp the board down using your miter gauge for the proper angle that you've already worked out on some scrap wood. It is much easier to finish a fixed work piece by moving the sanding disk on the quill to slowly finish off the end.
Ed from Rhode Island
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
Re: Miters or cross bevels on long stock
------------edma194 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 18, 2022 6:24 pm I suggest using your sanding disk to finish the miter ends of these pieces. Cut them a little over then clamp the board down using your miter gauge for the proper angle that you've already worked out on some scrap wood. It is much easier to finish a fixed work piece by moving the sanding disk on the quill to slowly finish off the end.
+1 or clamp it flat to the table and use the table tilt and a angle finder and disc sander making sure the piece is square to the disc ,than just extend the quill into the work . I agree with AL as well , everything has to be perfect , the width the thickness both are as critical as the miter setting .
Hobbyman2 Favorite Quote: "If a man does his best, what else is there?"
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
Re: Miters or cross bevels on long stock
Thanks for all the ideas/suggestions. Here's a couple of pics of the project for anyone who was wondering what I was making. It's Shut the Box game.
- edflorence
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- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 8:14 pm
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Re: Miters or cross bevels on long stock
very nice!
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
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- Bronze Member
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Re: Miters or cross bevels on long stock
I have used the jig featured in the ON HANDS article with success. It is easy to use and produces a very accurate miter joint. It is especially useful for cross-cut bevels on long stock. The jig has a movable arm that is set to the desired angle and then locked in place. It also has a stop block that is adjustable so that all of the pieces in a project are cut to the same length. The jig does require a sacrificial fence to be attached to the miter gauge, but this is easy to do with a few screws and some sandpaper on the face of the fence to help keep the workpiece from slipping. The jig is a great way to get consistent, accurate miter joints for boxes and other projects.
Re: Miters or cross bevels on long stock
This might be a bit off topic and the easy way out, but several years ago when I was struggling with table saw miters I stumbled on a post by sehast where he mentioned that he had moved to "lapped miters" (viewtopic.php?p=248758&hilit=infinityto ... ed#p248758). I ordered up the same bits he recommended and have never looked back. What I like about this approach is that if you mill your lumber properly -- square, uniform thickness, width and length -- the joint is foolproof. I'm pretty good at milling lumber so it works for me. I also like it because I can reliably make a long joint (say along the length of a box).
I've used this approach on both cabinets and boxes. I've attached a couple of pictures from a box that my daughter and I built a couple years ago where we even used it to make the sliding lid of the box. Worked great!
-Erik
I've used this approach on both cabinets and boxes. I've attached a couple of pictures from a box that my daughter and I built a couple years ago where we even used it to make the sliding lid of the box. Worked great!
-Erik
_________________
1990 Mark V 520 (purchased as a 510 in 1992, upgraded to 520 in 2007)
4" Jointer, 11" Bandsaw, 6" Beltsander
Clear Vue CVMAX Cyclone, Nordfab Ductwork, Dust Right Ports, Dylos DC1100 Pro Monitor
Other items: Incra V120 Miter Gauge, Sharkguard, Jessem Cear-Cut TS Guides, Cross-Cut Sled (Nick Ferry), SS Drum Sander (Keith's Shop), Bandsaw Circle Cutter (Inspire Woodcraft), Bandsaw Template Guide, Wedgie Sled (Jerry Bennett), Moxon Vise (Katz-Moses).
1990 Mark V 520 (purchased as a 510 in 1992, upgraded to 520 in 2007)
4" Jointer, 11" Bandsaw, 6" Beltsander
Clear Vue CVMAX Cyclone, Nordfab Ductwork, Dust Right Ports, Dylos DC1100 Pro Monitor
Other items: Incra V120 Miter Gauge, Sharkguard, Jessem Cear-Cut TS Guides, Cross-Cut Sled (Nick Ferry), SS Drum Sander (Keith's Shop), Bandsaw Circle Cutter (Inspire Woodcraft), Bandsaw Template Guide, Wedgie Sled (Jerry Bennett), Moxon Vise (Katz-Moses).
Re: Miters or cross bevels on long stock
That's a gorgeous box, Erik!
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!