Horizontal Table Wobble

[reible]

After watching your newest video I'm a bit worried in that the tubes seem too loose, they normally are a pretty snug fit in the holes before adding the pins. Have to wonder if some damage has occurred some where along the line??

I can pull my manual out and provide shopsmith instructions for replacement of the legs if that would help? Sorry I don't have a part number either.

Ed

[DLB]

Confirming what Ed said, I located my unpinned tie bar and checked fit. It is snug, I tried a few tubes and the worst had minimal play (about 0.2 degrees of play on a magnetic angle cube (Wixie)). I'd estimate a tenth or less play than shown in the video. The best tubes had no discernible play. IMO new pins by themselves won't work, at best they would temporarily eliminate the play. The tapered pins are the grooved type, the grooves dig into the metal of the tie bar and tubes, with the widest part of the taper digging the deepest. In your case, because of the poor fit between tie bar and tube, the pin may act like a combination of hinge pin and reamer. Some operations put a lot of force on the table, and I just don't see the aluminum tie bar holding on just those grooves.

I would suspect the tie bar is the primary cause of the poor fit. Mostly because it is aluminum and the tubes are steel. You can probably confirm using other 1-1/4" tubes, for example lathe tool rest, extension table base tubes, or your tailstock tubes. Don't use eccentric SPT tubes, they are not nearly as close to the 1-1/4" nominal and will introduce their own wobble.

- David

[keonep]

I put the lathe tool rest tube in the same tie bar hole and it's loose as well. I'm wondering if I could shim it with thin metal to create a tighter fit.....

[DLB]

I put the lathe tool rest tube in the same tie bar hole and it's loose as well. I'm wondering if I could shim it with thin metal to create a tighter fit.....

Are both of your table tubes wobbly? If yes, equally? Maybe one of our MEs knows of something that would work. I was initially thinking setscrew(s), 90 degrees and as far below the tapered pins as possible.

- David

[reible]

My fear is that the legs were bent in relation to the tie bar and then an attempt was made to fix it.... Do the holes look oblong? If so it possible that the aluminum has bent and I would also look very closely to make sure there are no cracks. If all looks good you could attempt to shim but getting a really good fit could be quite difficult.

You can price a new part at shopsmith and see if you can get, ie not back ordered.

Or

Ebay or other sources, like perhaps someone here has an unused one they would be willing to part with. Asking is worth it. I've gotten items and given items for free or simple postage. Sorry I don't have a spare.

Ed

[keonep]

My fear is that the legs were bent in relation to the tie bar and then an attempt was made to fix it.... Do the holes look oblong? If so it possible that the aluminum has bent and I would also look very closely to make sure there are no cracks. If all looks good you could attempt to shim but getting a really good fit could be quite difficult.

You can price a new part at shopsmith and see if you can get, ie not back ordered.

Or

Ebay or other sources, like perhaps someone here has an unused one they would be willing to part with. Asking is worth it. I've gotten items and given items for free or simple postage. Sorry I don't have a spare.

Ed

Thanks Ed, the holes are oblong and it only wiggles in 1 direction. There are zero cracks so I think I might be able to shim it. I have a feeler gauge that I probably haven't used in 10 years so I'll use some of those to try and get a tight fit and report back.

[keonep]

Well I got a .006 feeler gauge in there and it held super tight with zero wiggle however, I still have the movement in the table albeit a little bit less. It looks to me like the post from the carriage is moving a little bit in the front. Is there a way to tight the front height adjustment lock?

[RFGuy]

JMO...but given the significant amount of visible wobble seen in the original video, wouldn't the best course of action be a replacement? I mean, I wouldn't want the main table to move like that in the middle of a cut on the tablesaw. Seems dangerous to me. I am all for fixing what can be fixed, but from what I have seen so far, I wouldn't trust attempting to shim it or whatever to try to fix it.

[edma194]

I have to agree with RFGuy, you would be better off replacing the part. The part is the complete assembly with tie bar and legs: https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/ite ... tem=514344

$236 is steep, maybe you can find a used part on eBay for less: https://www.ebay.com/itm/125323787109?h ... SwkqFihqVZ

It is supposed to be the same part for a Mark 7 so would that come from Shopsmith with the double rack legs?

[DLB]

Well I got a .006 feeler gauge in there and it held super tight with zero wiggle however, I still have the movement in the table albeit a little bit less. It looks to me like the post from the carriage is moving a little bit in the front. Is there a way to tight the front height adjustment lock?

The carriage lock to the way tubes is adjustable. I like it fairly tight so it takes a decent amount of hand force to lock. There is an adjustment nut in the rear, opposite the lock knob. The carriage can rock on the way tubes if this is loose.

For locking the main table tubes, there are two versions of carriage. Looking at the hole that the table tube goes into, it will be either full 360 degrees or have a narrow cut that allows the casting to clamp around the leg. Either version should work, but the cut appears to be there for improved clamping. First question is which do you have? To answer your question, I don't think there is an adjustment. IIWM I'd start with disassembly and cleaning and making sure all parts are present and in the correct location.
Note - I have added the cut with a hacksaw and it works fine.

- David