Shopsmith 11 Inch Bandsaw refurbish

[mingus123]

Hi Folks

I am new to this equipment, but am starting to follow in my grandfathers footsteps as far as wood working goes. I recently purchased a Shopsmith Bandsaw Model No. 505641. The machine runs well, but obviously needs refurbishing and cleaning. I have attached pictures. There is rust on some of the bolts and fittings, and I am wondering how far I should go as far as replacing parts. Is it safe to assume any rusted part should be replaced, or can it be cleaned and repurposed. Pardon my ignorance in the matter, would appreciate some guidance.

Julian

[edma194]

You should first try removing rust from any of the parts in your photos. I prefer using Evapo-Rust, there are other simple methods. On hardened steel parts the corrosion is often an insignificant surface layer. On the trunnions shown in the bottom photos might only have surface rust, or de-rusting could reveal pits that keep the trunnions from moving smoothly. So just try them out. If the parts move when they should and they don't move when they shouldn't, then you're most of the way there.

If those are steel guide blocks you probably want new ones, and maybe Cool Blocks or bearing guides instead.

Replacing the bearings/bushings may be necessary so check those out right away.

[rpd]

The rust looks to be cosmetic, I wouldn't think part replacement should be necessary.

This thread should help with understanding how it works, and getting it adjusted properly.
viewtopic.php?t=8542&hilit=bandsaw+adjustment

and some videos
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... QrwCJ_ziB7

[db5]

For rust that appears to be cosmetic (particularly if you don't want to remove the part) I have found Bartender's Friend to work well. Make a slurry with light oil and rub it on. It is also great for turning black way tubes bright silver. BF is mostly oxalic acid which is a great rust remover.

[chapmanruss]

Julian,

Rust removal should be the first step. Your Bandsaw was made in November 1980. It can be a bit intimidating to completely disassemble the Bandsaw, but it really isn't as difficult to reassemble as it looks. Having a Manual with the parts diagram and parts list will help along with the instructions in the manual for alignment. A current manual will help if you do not have the one for your Bandsaw but there are differences in the parts that have been changed/upgraded over the years. There are a lot of little parts, but things can be removed in assemblies. You want to get any parts with rust removed for rust removal. I know that was an awkward sentence. Every part except the post the Upper Wheel Arm mounts to the Main Frame and the 2 Sleeves pressed into the Main Frame the Trunnions go on can be removed from the Main Frame. The post the Upper Wheel Arm mounts on has some surface rust which will have to be removed while it is place in the Main Frame. Not a problem to do. That might be a good place to try db5's recommendation of Bartender's Friend. Separating the rusty parts from the others will make rust removal easier.

While disassembling the Bandsaw check the condition of the parts and in particular the sealed bearing on the Lower Wheel Shaft. It should turn freely and smoothly. During reassembly when putting the Upper Wheel back on the Upper Wheel Arm add grease to the bearings which will be exposed when the wheel is off the axle of the Upper Wheel Arm. Your Bandsaw has the older Guide and Back Up Bearings listed as "roller" in the manual for your era of Bandsaw. I would recommend replacing these with either the Bandsaw Backup Roller Retrofit Kit part number 555074 or if your Bandsaw needs new tires also and you want to use the rubber replacement tires get the Basic Bandsaw Tune-Up Kit part number 556083. The old rollers for the Guide and Backup Bearings do get noisy and don't turn as easily as the current style bearings. These are an upgrade available for older Bandsaws. Something to know about the Bandsaw is that even though it first came out in 1955 any of the changes/upgrades can be added to these older Bandsaws. This includes the Aluminum Table Upgrade replacing the Cast Iron Table. I won't get into the debate of Cast Iron vs Aluminum Tables here. I have both on Bandsaws and they both have their pluses and minuses.

Back to rust removal the Guide Block Bracket on the lower Blade Guide assembly and possibly the upper one too has some rust on it. This will be one of the more difficult parts to disassemble and reassemble. The Guide Block Bracket is moved in and out of the Guide Bracket by the Guide Adjusting Knob held in by the Filister Screw and the knob turns on that screw's threads also. Confusing, Isn't it? Following the parts diagram and lists in the manual will help. Specifically note how the Guide Block Spring is in the assembly as you take it apart and be careful not to lose or damage it. It is a thin piece of metal.

You did a great job adding pictures to your post which helps a lot in seeing what needs to be done. Anytime you need help simply ask and do add pictures when needed to better describe the question.

[mingus123]

Wow folks, You have already been immensely helpful, I am slowly taking this apart, as I watch videos and look at the manual. The concept of the whole thing is slowly growing in my brain, if that makes sense. Russ, thank you so much for your detailed response. I was already taking apart the Guide Block Bracket and kind of rubbing my head figuring out the adjusting knob. I might possibly have more questions about that part, but in the meantime I'm going to do a little more watching and looking. Cheers all

[chapmanruss]

Removing the Guide Adjusting Knob is not too difficult once you understand it is held on to the Guide Bracket by the Filister Screw. The Filister Screw goes into the Guide Bracket and the Guide Adjusting Knob turns on the remaining threads. It is that turning that moves the Guide Block Bracket in and out through the Guide Bracket. The easiest way to remove the Guide Adjusting Knob is to hold it in position while turning the Filister Screw to remove it from the Guide Bracket. This is especially true if the Guide Block Bracket is rusted and not moving in or out of the Guide Bracket. Retracting the Guide Block Bracket as far into the Guide Bracket as it will go will help give more clearance for the Filister Screw to clear the Guide Bracket during removal.

When reinstalling the Guide Adjusting Knob, I believe it is best to have the Guide Block Bracket in the Guide Bracket as far as it goes. With the Filister Screw already in the Guide Adjusting Knob place the Knob in position with the slot in the matching slot of the Guide Block Bracket and begin to turn the Filister Screw back into the Guide Block while holding the Guide Adjusting Knob in place. Once the Filister Screw bottoms out in the Guide Adjusting Knob back it off a quarter turn and you are set to adjust the Guide Block Bracket in and out of the Guide Bracket.

Understanding how these parts function together makes it easier to work on.

[soonerNC]

Hi All,

Brand new member, and first post. I have a couple of related questions.

First, Julian - do you have any progress on this?

I am in nearly the same boat. I am slowly fixing up an inherited SS. My bandsaw serial indicates that it is from 1982. I am planning on buying 555074, but there is a disclaimer that it is for serials 97932 or newer. So, will this not work for my saw? Also, besides the wheels, are these three bearings all I need to replace for a tune-up? Thank for the info above! I will put it to use.

I was also going to get the cool blocks too.

Thanks!

[dgale]

I am in nearly the same boat. I am slowly fixing up an inherited SS. My bandsaw serial indicates that it is from 1982. I am planning on buying 555074, but there is a disclaimer that it is for serials 97932 or newer. So, will this not work for my saw? Also, besides the wheels, are these three bearings all I need to replace for a tune-up? Thank for the info above! I will put it to use.

I was also going to get the cool blocks too.

Thanks!

soonerNC - I'm pretty sure that bearing upgrade kit works on any era SS bandsaw - note that the description on the SS website says "Compatible with all Shopsmith Band Saws and has been standard with Band Saws with serial numbers later than 97932"...so it's not saying it's only for #97932 and newer but rather it has been standard on them but is compatable with all models.

In addition to the bearings and cool blocks, I'd give everything a thorough cleaning and lubing as needed. Check the condition of everything and replace any damaged or excessively worn parts - Shopsmith still sells every part you need. I discovered that the upper wheel tension arm on mine had been welded by a previous owner when I disassembled mine...they must not have realized this part is available from SS for $15 when they went to the trouble of welding an aluminum part...which resulted in the upper wheel being permanently out of alignment. So, careful inspection is wise and in my case a problem fixed for $15.

You'll want to replace the tires on each wheel if the old ones are cracked and/or dried out. I bought a "tune-up" kit from SS that includes the tires, glue, and the bearing upgrade kit all in one (part#556083). Otherwise, as noted above, make sure to lube the roller bearings in the upper wheel hub. Also, clean the guide block brackets and then lube the brackets and screws with powdered graphite.

Alfer reassembly, just make sure the bearings are all properly contacting the blade (the upper guide block bearing should not contact blade until it is being used and under slight pressure, whereas the lower bearing and the two bearings by the tension arm adjuster should always contact the blade). You can find info on adjusting and tuning the guide blcoks, bearings, and table alignment online.

[chapmanruss]

soonerNC,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum.

The two posts you see above is all we have had from Julian about his Bandsaw. Not everybody updates on their progress.

As dgale said any Bandsaw made going back to its introduction in the 1950's can use current parts available. There are some things to know about that statement though. For example, upgrading to the Aluminum Table from the original Cast Iron Table uses the original trunnions of the Bandsaw. There was a change in the hardware for mounting the trunnions to the Main Frame at the time the Aluminum Table was introduced. If you have the Cast Iron Table and its original Trunnion with its hardware you cannot easily replace that hardware with current parts. Most everything else is replaceable part for part.

A recent discussion in another thread covered the original Backup Rollers vs. the newer Backup Bearings. Since you are going completely through your Bandsaw, I would recommend upgrading to the newer Backup Bearings. This upgrade is an example of something that has to be replaced as an assembly. You cannot simply put the Bearings themselves on the original Backup Roller hardware. The Backup Bearings upgrade kit comes with all the needed hardware to mount them as shown in the online catalog on this site.