10ER headstock pulley removal

RCZ

I am working on a 10ER with Serial # 34027 and having very little trouble with the disassembly except for the headstock pulley. I removed the two set screws (shown below) and the pulley doesn't budge. I know it might be stuck on with 70 years of corrosion and grunge, but I was first wondering if the center of the pulley is an indication of a second means of attachment ?

I don't have any experience with Shopsmith before this, so I don't recognize whether this pulley is something unique or if that item in the center is part of a mechanism that holds the pulley to the headstock shaft.

Thanks for any insight anyone has for me.

Rob

SteveMaryland

Obtain and use a gear/bearing puller like the one shown. Makes quick work of yanking things off of shafts without resorting to hammers etc. Easy to use.

I can't remember where I bought this one, but Harbor Freight sells pullers, as do other places like Graingers, McMaster.

If you own a Shopsmith or any machinery at all, you will find future uses for a puller.

jsburger

There is only one set screw that holds the pulley on the drive sleeve (shaft). The set screw in the head stock holds the drive sleeve in the head stock. The pulley bore is smooth. In the first photo below you see the drive sleeve (shaft) and pulley. The flat spot on the drive sleeve is where the pulley set screw should engage. The second picture shows the splined shaft of the quill that slides into the splined bore inside of the drive sleeve.

The machined portion of the drive sleeve in the first photo is where the bearings go. There is a spacer between them that the set screw in the head stock engages to hold the whole assembly in the head stock.

A good soak with penetrating oil and a puller should work. The pulley is cast and fairly fragile so be careful of the force applied.

chapmanruss

The Drive Pulley on the Model 10E and 10ER are a special bore size at 13/16" so it is important to not damage the Pulley or Drive sleeve when separating them. As John recommended

A good soak with penetrating oil and a puller should work. The pulley is cast and fairly fragile so be careful of the force applied.

and I agree with John. Patience can be the key here to a good outcome. Allow the penetrating oil to do its job before trying to use a puller. If your pulley had two set screws holding it on, which is not common, it could be the extra set screw "digging" into the Drive Sleeve that could be keeping it from coming off.

The puller SteveMaryland showed in his post may work fine but I prefer one like the set shown below. Again, these pulleys can be fragile and this type of puller can distribute the pressure all around the pulley edge instead of just three spots. You will also need something to push against since the Drive Sleeve itself has the splined bore. A piece of wood doweling can be helpful here as it will avoid metal to metal contact on the Drive Sleeve and possible damage to the splined bore.

The above Gear Puller set is an example and you may need a larger puller set than shown to accommodate the 4" step of the Drive Pulley.

Gear Puller set.jpg

RCZ

Thanks Steve and John,

The last picture in John's post makes it clear what I am seeing in the center of the pulley-the shaft has that six-sided star pattern. I'll buy a gear puller and start soaking the assembly with some oil.

I'm guessing that this pulley on the headstock is the original. The pulley on the motor appears much newer and it must be an upgrade. It feels and looks finely machined. It has on the inside of the back of the pulley a small blob of what looks like epoxy (?), which I assume was used to balance the pulley.

RCZ

Russ, thanks for your post. I will look for the type of puller you have shown. I am familiar with the type that Steve posted but not this one in your post. I have another 10ER that awaits, so a gear puller set will get more than one use.

My 10ER does have two set screws holding this pulley on to the shaft. Both have been removed (in the picture above). Now that you mentioned that two set screws (vs one set screw) is unusual, I will take a look at the other 10E I have that awaits restoration.

I have to say, now that I have spent some time on these two Magna Engineering tools, just how impressed I am with the simplicity of the engineering.

jsburger

Just to emphasize what Russ said, the head stock pulley is a special bore size at 13/16". Nobody that I know of has been able to find a source of new pulleys with that bore size. They do not exist new. They come up occasionally on eBay but if you need one you may wait a long tome before you see one.

Having said that, it is not 100% correct. They are not an off the shelf item but, Skip Campbell of MKC Tools ( www.mkctools.com ) does custom make them. They are currently listed on his web site for $46.50 each.

RCZ

John, thanks for the link to Skip's website. I might order his pulley once I remove this (what I assume is the) original pulley. Wow, he has some nice stuff listed for sale.

RCZ

I was able to get the pulley off, so thanks to each of you for your advice. The description by John about the drive sleeve and the splined portion of the quill was good, but until I was able to see it in person it was hard to imagine how this works.

Next project is learning what to do about the quill return spring. The spring on my 10ER is pretty weak and sloppy so I need to figure out what to do with that. :)

JPG

A Mark spring will work. They the same.

However weak does not compute. Insufficient tension does. It may just require adjusting. (another turn or two)

What do you mean by 'sloppy' ?

RCZ

I found this video and see this is basically what I have done before (albeit long, long ago with my Grandfather, in his shop :) )

By 'weak' I did mean insufficient tension on the spring. I described it as sloppy because the quill operation seems loose, not tight enough. But now that I have seen the video it seems for sure that it's a simple fix.

https://youtu.be/S66Lf9VAjnA

chapmanruss

As long as the Quill Return Spring is intact with no "odd" bends or cracks/breaks around the hole where it attaches to the Quill Feed Pinion it should be okay as JPG said it may simply need more tension. Very few of the Quill Return Springs on Model 10's I have restored needed replacements. The Mark V Quill Return Spring is the same and can be used as a replacement. Buying a new one from the factory requires buying it in the Housing which is part number 521875. That housing is for the Mark 5/V, 7 and 4 headstock, both conventional and Power Pro.

RCZ

Russ, thanks for that part number at SS. I just checked and that's a good option to have in case this one I have ends up being unusable.