10ER Reassembly

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ChaplainLewis
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10ER Reassembly

Post by ChaplainLewis »

I recently purchased a 10ER (SN E 52769) for next to nothing. It was in pretty rough shape and although it ran OK it is missing a couple of parts. Besides, I was looking for a project to fill some spare time. 've always wanted a Shopsmith so this seemed like a good opportunity. I began to disassemble and clean the various parts while reading these forums and anything else I could find. I'm about at the place to begin reassembly but have a couple of questions.
1) while not necessarily important, I keep encountering the term "greenie". What is that?
2) When reassembling, is it necessary to use grease or some other lubricant where the quill meets the quill feed pinion?
3) In the future I may want to strip and repaint the headstock, pulley guard, etc. I couldn't find an original color and am curious as to what kind of paint is best.

Thanks a ton. Loving the forum and appreciative of the assistance.

Chaplain Lewis
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JPG
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Re: 10ER Reassembly

Post by JPG »

1) Greenie is a term used for the first Mark 5 that superceded the Madel 10. Ditto the later goldie/brownie model.

2)I would. It also reduces rattling.

3)Whatever works for thee!!! A dark blue is what I recall from early 1950's.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
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chapmanruss
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Re: 10ER Reassembly

Post by chapmanruss »

Chaplain Lewis,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. As JPG has answered the "Greenie is the term given to the first paint scheme of the Mark 5 which was introduced in March of 1954. I have restored quite a few Model 10E and 10ER Shopsmith's. I use Rust-Oleum Charcoal Gray paint with a Matte clear coat to cover the gloss finish. As for the dark blue color I have only seen that on a little bit of one part one time on all the Model 10's I have owned/restored. I just used the charcoal gray/matte clear coat combination this weekend to paint a Model 10E I am restoring. The choice of color is really up to you.

Your Shopsmith Model 10ER S/N E 52769 was made in the Eastern Plant after April 1951. There are no known records of when different Model 10's were made so that information is best guesstimates based on things we do know. Yours was likely made in late 1951.

For your question #2
When reassembling, is it necessary to use grease or some other lubricant where the quill meets the quill feed pinion?
There does need to be some kind of lubrication for the Quill and Pinion to keep working properly. When the Model 10's were in production grease was used on the Quill for both the Pinion and for the Quill to slide in and out of the Headstock. Grease presents a problem as it attracts saw dust and creates a grimy mess. For the Mark 5 the makers of the Shopsmith tools started recommending paste wax for lubricating and protecting bare metal parts. This works well for the Model 10's too. The PDF attached below is a supplement I created for the Model 10's about waxing parts. Do note that SC Johnson has discontinued making their Paste Wax so a substitute may be used like Minwax.

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Waxing Supplement Model 10s.pdf
(111.38 KiB) Downloaded 69 times
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The choice of waxing vs grease for the Quill and Pinion gear is up to you. You can try waxing. If it doesn't work well for you, it is easier to clean off the wax and change to grease. I do use a white lithium grease when reassembling a Model 10 on the pins for the base and arm and the pins the Table Trunnion and rear table bracket goes on. Wipe off any extra grease and attracting saw dust will not be a problem. These are points you want to keep moving freely and only waxing there, I feel, is not enough.

When it comes to missing parts these Shopsmith Model 10's have not been made since 1953. Parts have to be found used but there are exceptions. Items that attach to the Quill's Spindle can sometimes be substituted with new/current accessories. If, for example, you are missing the Drill Chuck you can use the current one available rather than trying to find a used one from the Model 10 era (1947 through 1953).
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
ChaplainLewis
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Re: 10ER Reassembly

Post by ChaplainLewis »

Thanks a ton. That's exactly what I needed. Really appreciate the expertise and assistance.
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chapmanruss
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Re: 10ER Reassembly

Post by chapmanruss »

Just a heads up. When reassembling the Main Table Assembly, it is easy to install the Table Bearing part # 103-4 shown in the picture below upside down. The bump with the part number and MAGNA should face the bottom of the table. It seems more natural that the bump would face down away from the bottom of the Table and the part number and name would be visible. I have made this mistake a couple of times and it becomes impossible to align the Main Table to the Spindle.

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103-4 Table Bearing.jpg
103-4 Table Bearing.jpg (142.48 KiB) Viewed 516 times
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
ChaplainLewis
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Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2022 10:01 am

Re: 10ER Reassembly

Post by ChaplainLewis »

Thanks. Good intel
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