Which to choose...?

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chapmanruss
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Re: Which to choose...?

Post by chapmanruss »

nduanetesh,

I am guessing from the description you gave of this Mark V that it was no longer in its shipping crate when you bought it. The pictures you provided show me the Date Code Sticker should be on the end of the Belt Cover between the Idler Shaft Vent Plate and the upper Drive Shaft even though the information/warning sticker is missing too. The reason the Date Code sticker moved to the current location in 2002 was for the addition of the Belt Cover Shaft Guard. This now leads to the problem of which paint formula to use since your Mark V was made sometime in 2001 and before or after the paint formula change. There is still hope of narrowing down when your Mark V was made by checking the Date Code of the SPT's that came with it. Since all were pretty much New In Box with the Mark V, they were likely purchased at the same time and made close to the same date.

It sounds like you are off to a good start using Evaporust to remove the rust from parts. Do open up the Headstock by unscrewing the Belt Cover and sliding it out of the way on the Way Tubes to check inside for rust. If there isn't any rust, lubricating the Motor and Idler Shafts movable Sheaves for their pulleys will be needed before using the Mark V. Also, a dry lubricant on the back moving parts of the Speed Control is a good idea too. Lubricating the Idler Shaft's movable sheave and the back of the Speed Control is done through the access hole behind the 50th Anniversary Plate.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
nduanetesh
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Re: Which to choose...?

Post by nduanetesh »

Thank you for the info Russ. The Shopsmith wasn't in the shipping crate when I bought it. I think whoever bought it spent a few minutes with it, but didn't get very far. As I said, there's no sign that the legs have ever been on it, but the table saw blade is in the arbor and mounted on the spindle.

I'm attaching some pics of the date tags on the band saw and the jointer. Both show a 2004 build date. (I found the tag inside the band saw after I vacuumed out a mouse nest, lol.) I couldn't find a tag on the belt sander anywhere. If we assume all of the stuff was bought at the same time, then the assumption is that the Mark V is also from 2004-ish. Is knowing the paint formula only important for the sake of getting an exact match on the paint color? Or is there some other concern (like a switch from enamel to acrylic)?

Once I've got it up on its legs I will definitely slide open the belt cover and see how things look inside. Two questions for that: 1) there's a black rubber cylinder about 2" tall between the headstock and the carriage. Is that a permanent part to keep me from colliding the carriage into the headstock? Or should that be removed? 2) What do I use for lubricating the sheaves?

Thanks again for the help and info.
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Last edited by nduanetesh on Tue Nov 08, 2022 12:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
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beeg
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Re: Which to choose...?

Post by beeg »

Question #1. Leave the ring on. It's for spacing the saw blade and to prevent damage to the carriage if the headstock slides into it.
#2. Use a lightweight oil 3n1, zoom spout oil. Whichever oil you use, it helps if the container had a long spout to reach the oil holes.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
thunderbirdbat
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Re: Which to choose...?

Post by thunderbirdbat »

Look for the belt sander one on the inside of the grey sides.
Shopsmith belt sander.jpg
Shopsmith belt sander.jpg (397.94 KiB) Viewed 1762 times
Brenda

1998 510 upgraded to a 520, upgraded to power pro with double tilt and lift assist.
1998 bandsaw
2016 beltsander
jointer
overarm pin router
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chapmanruss
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Re: Which to choose...?

Post by chapmanruss »

As I said in my last post the reason I believe your Mark V was made in 2001 was because the Date Code sticker was moved to the current location in 2002 for the addition of the Belt Cover Shaft Guard. Your Belt Cover does not have the mounting holes for the Belt Cover Shaft Guard. I may be incorrect as to when the Belt Cover Shaft Guard was first added to the Belt Cover. The relocation of the Date Code Sticker and the addition of the Belt Cover Shaft Guard may not have occurred at the same time. I do know the Belt Cover Shaft Guard was added before my Mark V was made in 2006. Since the SPT's were made in 2004 and the Mark V was not used I believe they were likely purchased together. The Date Code Sticker would then have been on the missing information/warning sticker. Other members having a Mark V made between 2002 and 2006 may be able to tell us if their Mark V has the holes in the Belt Cover for mounting the Belt Cover Shaft Guard. The Belt Cover Shaft Guard was added as a safety feature but most members that have commented about it prefer not to have it on their Mark series tool. The paint color is the same but the formula is different so for proper adhesion of the touch up paint you need the correct formula to avoid problems.

As beeg has already said,

The Carriage Stop Ring should be in place between the Headstock and Carriage. It allows for quick setup of the Table Saw function and aligns the Saw Blade in the Table Insert.

For oiling the moving Sheaves of the Motor and Idler Shaft Pulleys several lightweight oils work fine but for getting it in the hole of the Idler Shaft Sheave the Zoom Spout Oiler works very well with its extending tube. Follow the maintenance instructions in the Summary Manual for oiling the Sheaves but add several drops of oil instead of just a few (2 to 5 drops) as instructed in the manual. It is extremely likely there has been no maintenance done on your Mark V since it was shipped from the factory so a little extra oil in the Sheaves will help. Just don't overdo it so as to have oil being "thrown" around the inside of the Headstock when the motor is turned on.

Remember NEVER TURN THE SPEED CONTROL WITHOUT THE MOTOR RUNNING OR TURNING THE SPINDLE BY HAND.

Brenda gave you the location of where the Date Code Sticker should be on the Belt Sander. If you have a sanding belt mounted on the Belt Sander that will make it hard to see the sticker inside.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
DLB
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Location: Joshua Texas

Re: Which to choose...?

Post by DLB »

chapmanruss wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 12:13 pm As I said in my last post the reason I believe your Mark V was made in 2001 was because the Date Code sticker was moved to the current location in 2002 for the addition of the Belt Cover Shaft Guard. Your Belt Cover does not have the mounting holes for the Belt Cover Shaft Guard. I may be incorrect as to when the Belt Cover Shaft Guard was first added to the Belt Cover.
My mini has an '03 headstock with no holes for the shaft guard. And I have an '04 from an estate sale, with problems, visiting my shop that also has no holes for the shaft guard. I'm tentatively voting for a later implementation date of the Shaft Guard.

- David
nduanetesh
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Re: Which to choose...?

Post by nduanetesh »

I was able to get a peek under the belt on the belt sander. (Photo attached.) It's also 2004. I agree that it's probably a safe assumption that the Mark V is also from 2004.

So, that being sorted, is there somewhere that I can buy touchup paint already mixed? Or do I need to get the formula and take it to a hardware store?

Regarding the Zoom Spout Oiler...a Google search took me to two Amazon listings for "Zoom Spout Oiler", one of which is for an empty bottle, and the other is a very similar bottle filled with sewing machine oil. Is the sewing machine oil acceptable for the Shopsmith? Or do I go with the empty bottle and fill it with 3-in-1?

Thanks to all for all of the help and info. You're really getting me off on the right foot, and I'm sure this whole process would be MUCH more difficult without this forum.
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JPG
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Re: Which to choose...?

Post by JPG »

Sewing machine oil and 3 in one oil and turbine oil and zoom spout oil are #10 light machine oil.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
br549
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Re: Which to choose...?

Post by br549 »

In answer to your touch-up paint question, I found this on Shopmith's website:
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john_001
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Location: Chester, NJ

Re: Which to choose...?

Post by john_001 »

nduanetesh wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 7:33 pm
Regarding the Zoom Spout Oiler...a Google search took me to two Amazon listings for "Zoom Spout Oiler", one of which is for an empty bottle, and the other is a very similar bottle filled with sewing machine oil. Is the sewing machine oil acceptable for the Shopsmith? Or do I go with the empty bottle and fill it with 3-in-1?
The Zoom Spout Oiler is sold at Ace - about 4-5 bucks with oil included. Mine was labeled "turbine oil".
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