LarryG wrote: ↑Sun Nov 27, 2022 8:03 am
I’m unsure of taking the total assembly apart. If I seen some instructions on how to start and finish I would. Getting the bearings out seems to be a bit of a challenge if I don’t know the proper way to take it apart. I would like to replace the bearings at this time.
Here's an illustrated thread by forum member reible on replacing 10ER headstock bearings.
The link to reible's thread and the video from Skip Campbell show replacing the bearings. Skip covers removing the Quill from the Headstock which is a simple procedure. Removing the Drive Sleeve can be a little more difficult. The bearings of the Drive Sleeve are a friction fit into the Headstock but can be a little tight and not easily removed. After removing the set screw on the back side of the Headstock and also removing the bolt that holds the Belt Cover on, the Drive Sleeve Assembly should slide out. I remove the Belt Cover bolt to have it out of the way and for painting. If needed I use a larger diameter Dowel like an 1" in diameter to push the Drive Sleeve Assembly out by inserting it from the quill side. This is large enough to cover the end of the Drive Sleeve. Removing the Pinion Shaft Assembly which advances the Quill is done by removing the knob from the end of the shaft on the back side of the Headstock. Remove the collar from the shaft on the back side of the Headstock. Then you will be able to slide the rest of the Pinion Assembly out the front side of the Headstock. With the Quill out of the Headstock the Quill Lock will slide out the front side of the Headstock.
Using Skip's way of removing and reinstalling bearings by "tapping" them off and back on with a mallet works well and requires little investment in tools. A mallet, larger washers and a length of metal pipe. If using the metal pipe, as in Skip's video, do smooth the ends of the pipe before using it. Use more "lighter" taps as opposed to fewer "heavier" taps to put the bearings on. As both of them say only push on the inner ring of the bearing. Do NOT use metal hammers to do this work. The impact of metal to metal can cause damage to the Quill and Drive Sleeve Assemblies' parts. I remove and replace bearings using a press and even use wood blocks to protect the ends of the Quill's Spline and the Drive Sleeve.
Something else to note is the Quill Sleeve in both reible's thread and Skip's video is the later one having the machined recessed ring around the quill for the set screws of the Collar. Your Quill may not have that. There have been at least 3 versions of the Quill Sleeve with the first having no provision for collar set screws. That is because the original collar was a clamp on type. The second had a flat spot on the top of the Quill Sleeve end for the top set screw only and the third is the one shown by both reible and Skip.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Well I decided to put it back together till I find some bearings. It runs pretty smooth with the old bearings anyway.
I’m missing some parts hoping to maybe find some on here if anyone has one they sell parts off of.
I need a pulley cover and a part for the extension for the table saw an L bracket download/file.php?mode=view&id=58743
Attachments
CC677057-C583-41EB-90A6-06C02EC8580C.jpeg (503.11 KiB) Viewed 995 times
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I have found six variations of the Belt Guards for the Model 10's. The one John provided the 3 links to is the fourth and likely the version your Model 10 originally had. It also includes the special bolt for mounting it. There are several others for sale and the prices vary quite a bit.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
If you'd known what was happening, it would not have happened.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange