Replacement 520 magnet scales

[steverboss]

I recently purchased a used 520 that has the magnetic strips already attached to the front rails of all the tables & extensions, but there was no magnetic scales included. Does anyone know the SS part numbers for this scales? Or have an extra set for sale? Thanks in advance for any info.

[RFGuy]

You can find the scales at the link below. IF you already have the 520 rails and the magnetic strips attached, I believe all you need are the stainless steel scales (rulers). Those part numbers should be 522269 for the 38" Scale and 522270 for the 9-1/2" Scale. Those lengths are a bit misleading, so here is the description about them:

"A powerful magnetic strip attached to the top of each rail holds your choice of a short or long precision stainless steel scale that's graduated in both, 32nds and 16ths. Choose the long scale when measuring cuts from 6-1/2" to the left of the blade to 38-1/2" to the right* - or the short scale when measuring cuts from 6-1/2" to the left of the blade to 9-1/2" to the right."

https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... pgrade.htm

P.S. The stainless steel rulers are a thin and flexible steel. When I received mine with my 520 rail upgrade kit, they got damaged in shipping and Shopsmith had to send replacements due to the rails hitting the rulers during transit. I would recommend NOT placing any other Shopsmith parts in the order from Shopsmith as they might damage the rulers in shipping. When you get a bend/wrinkle in these rulers the magnetic strips are not powerful enough to keep them on. JMO.

[steverboss]

Really good info, thanks very much!

[DLB]

Two more thoughts: There should be a black plastic index piece mounted on the bottom of the rip fence, I've noticed these are often missing. I think it is installed with double sided tape. Maybe someone here has some insight, I don't actually see this piece on the service parts breakdown. But I see it in the picture that shows how the direct read stuff works.

rip_scale_closeup2_l.jpg (66.89 KiB) Viewed 1137 times

I suggest just starting with one scale. I'm not a fan of the direct read setup, and I know I'm not the only one. When I tried it I found myself zeroing it almost as often as I used it. Pretty much any and every setup change has the potential to induce an error. And I personally like to micro-adjust the saw using the quill feed, which also creates an error. My recommendation is start with one scale and see if you like the system. To quote the manual: "Once the Scale is set properly, no re-adjustment will be required... ...unless you change a Blade or Cutter, alter the position of the Quill Feed or change the distance relationship between the Mark V Headstock and Carriage." I found that to be true.

ETA: the picture of what I now know is the Indicator Block 522287. (Currently $7.08).

- David

[jsburger]

Two more thoughts: There should be a black plastic index piece mounted on the bottom of the rip fence, I've noticed these are often missing. I think it is installed with double sided tape. Maybe someone here has some insight, I don't actually see this piece on the service parts breakdown. But I see it in the picture that shows how the direct read stuff works.

I suggest just starting with one scale. I'm not a fan of the direct read setup, and I know I'm not the only one. When I tried it I found myself zeroing it almost as often as I used it. Pretty much any and every setup change has the potential to induce an error. And I personally like to micro-adjust the saw using the quill feed, which also creates an error. My recommendation is start with one scale and see if you like the system. To quote the manual: "Once the Scale is set properly, no re-adjustment will be required... ...unless you change a Blade or Cutter, alter the position of the Quill Feed or change the distance relationship between the Mark V Headstock and Carriage." I found that to be true.

- David

Are you looking at the rip fence parts list or the rip scale up grade parts list? Do all SS machines now come with the rip scale fence rails and the scales themselves. I bought the upgrade and can look to see if it has the part number for the fence indicator. Yes it attaches with double sided tape and mine came off after a year or so. I don't remember which I used but I reattached mine with either CA or epoxy.

There is the same problem with any table saw. My Powermatic PM2000 has a scale on the fence rail that is fixed. Changing blade on it requires moving the cursor and it has a very limited range. So the problem is not unique to the SS.

To me the only real problem is the SS scales them selves. They are slightly wider than the magnetic ledge on the fence rails. That makes them easy to bump and move. The magnetic strip is not strong enough to prevent that. If the scales were narrower and didn't hang over the edge it would be hard to move them accidentally.

[DLB]

Are you looking at the rip fence parts list or the rip scale up grade parts list? Do all SS machines now come with the rip scale fence rails and the scales themselves. I bought the upgrade and can look to see if it has the part number for the fence indicator. Yes it attaches with double sided tape and mine came off after a year or so. I don't remember which I used but I reattached mine with either CA or epoxy.

We confirmed that the Mark 7 comes with scales. I think the 520 did as well after some date. I don't know about 520S or Mark 4, probably not with the emphasis on reduced up-front cost, but the service parts for these aren't shown yet anyway. I expected to see Indicator Block on the service parts for M7 and 520 rip fence, but didn't. I later saw it on the Upgrade Instructions so I edited to add that PN info.

- David

[RFGuy]

To me the only real problem is the SS scales them selves. They are slightly wider than the magnetic ledge on the fence rails. That makes them easy to bump and move. The magnetic strip is not strong enough to prevent that. If the scales were narrower and didn't hang over the edge it would be hard to move them accidentally.

John,

Thanks. Yeah, I agree and have posted on this in the past, but just wasn't sure if it was me being too picky. Glad to hear it isn't only me that has a problem with this. I often find during setting up a cut that my fingers bump the stainless steel scale because it is a bit wider than the 520 rail beneath it. Makes it easy to accidentally knock it out of alignment. Mind you I would only really consider the scales suitable for more rough/functional work. For fine furniture and/or precision work in my shop I would still do manual setup verifying the measurement before a cut, but for many projects I believe the magnetic scales could be good enough if only they wouldn't get bumped so easily. I know that the magnetic tape used on the 520 rails is a lower quality, low strength magnet (like most magnetic tapes). I do wonder how replacing it with a higher quality, rare Earth (stronger field strength) magnet would do, but I just haven't felt like springing the cash on one to test it yet. I think I found a source for one that should fit the 520 rail and I think I saved it somewhere. Believe I posted about it here on the forum in the past. IF/when I get around to trying it out, I will report back on it.

[chapmanruss]

It should be noted that the Rip Scale Kit for Mark V Model 520 includes the 16" and 45" Long Steel Scales, but the Individual Components have a 9-1/2" and a 38" Long Steel Scale available.

As for the Scale Indicator I cannot find my upgrade instructions right now for the part number and it is not listed in the service parts for the Mark V 520/Mark 7 Fence or the Mark 7 Manual.

The one thing I can say about the Rip Scales is I really don't use them at all. I find it easier to use one of steel rulers I have (12", 24" and 36") or a Tape Measure to set the Fence. I would have to check the Fence position with a Ruler or Tape Measure anyway, so I simply don't bother using the Rip Scales which have to be adjusted to the Tables being used each time you set it up.

[jsburger]

I agree with Russ. I think the best use is for breaking down rough stock to approximate dimension for further milling. Not for sheet goods but smaller solid wood stock. Keep the smaller scale on the main table for approximate rips up to the width of the main table.

If I want to rip pieces to 2 1/4" for a final milled 2" width I don't care what the initial width is as long as it is close. The rip scales gets me close enough with out a ruler.

My Powermatic cabinet saw has a fixed "calibrated" fence scale but I still use a ruler for precise setting.

[dusty]

viewtopic.php?t=32572