chapmanruss wrote: ↑Sun Jun 11, 2023 12:44 pm
That doesn't sound that bad to me. Correct blade tension and lowering the upper blade guide close to the top of the item being cut will reduce, as much is possible, the blade from wandering. Some wandering can be the blade trying to follow the grain of the wood. Just different factors that affect cuts. Different types of saws have their pluses and minuses for different types of cuts. The Bandsaw would not be my choice for a finish cut to width or thickness of a board. I would use your setup for resawing boards to thickness but followed by running them through the Planer for the finished thickness.
great advice - thank you.
As I said, I am fairly new to this - the original owner did not have the height adjustment screw in the table - and lots of washers trying to level the table where it mounts to the trunnion. After adding the screw and using just one washer for each table mounting screw - in other words, following directions - I got the cut I have described in this post. Needless to say, I was pretty happy but before I went and celebrated, I thought I should get some confirmation that the results were within the "acceptable" range. I really appreciate this forum and the responses form the many many years of experience found here.
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
There is a free hand fence alignment you can do as well to ensure a consistent thickness cut. Though it doesn't sound like
it is off much at the moment.
The Bandsaw Fence for the Aluminum Table has had a single lock version (1st picture below) and a front and rear lock version (2nd picture below). Although I have not used the single lock fence, I believe it could deflect some as pressure is pushed against it while feeding the stock through the blade. It would be very difficult to maintain an even pressure against the stock and fence throughout the cut and thereby keeping the thickness the same throughout the cut. Having a Bandsaw Fence with locks on both ends should eliminate that possible deflection problem.
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Bandsaw Fence - single lock.jpg (103.17 KiB) Viewed 1300 times
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Bandsaw Fence - front and rear lock.jpg (109.28 KiB) Viewed 1300 times
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Something unique about the Bandsaw Fence is it mounts backwards having the Fence Rail and Fence Lock(s) on the outfeed side of the Aluminum Table.
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bandsaw fence and acc SS pic.jpg (19.21 KiB) Viewed 1300 times
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None of this applies to the Cast Iron Bandsaw Table which used the Miter as a fence.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Please correct me if I am wrong but I think everyone is missing 80spiders point and question.
He said...
" I took a scrap piece of pine 2x3 and ripped a thin piece that was 3" wide and 7/32 in thickness. I took my calipers and measured the accuracy. One side is .025 of an inch thicker than the other side or about 1.65/64 difference over the 3 inches of width."
I read that to mean top to bottom (the three inch width) not end to end there is a difference in thickness. If that is the case then the table is not square to the blade or if using the fence it is not square vertically to the table.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
jsburger wrote: ↑Mon Jun 12, 2023 1:05 pm
Please correct me if I am wrong but I think everyone is missing 80spiders point and question.
He said...
" I took a scrap piece of pine 2x3 and ripped a thin piece that was 3" wide and 7/32 in thickness. I took my calipers and measured the accuracy. One side is .025 of an inch thicker than the other side or about 1.65/64 difference over the 3 inches of width."
I read that to mean top to bottom (the three inch width) not end to end there is a difference in thickness. If that is the case then the table is not square to the blade or if using the fence it is not square vertically to the table.
John, you are SPOT ON with your interpretation of what I was asking! Very sorry I did not explain this question clearer to all others. Yes, it is possible that the work piece was not square but I don't think that is the issue. Given John's comment here, I will go back to the process this weekend but I will first be sure the two faces of the work piece are square before testing but I have a feeling John is correct in his conclusion "the blade is not vertically square to the table." Again - thank you.
You did a better job than I did of CAREFULLY reading the original post.
80spiders,
When I read
I have worked with and remounted my aluminum table to my band saw and adjusted the fence to the 5/8 blade as directed.
I unfortunately assumed everything was properly aligned and went down the rabbit hole thinking the problem with the difference in thickness was from the beginning to the end of the cut. Although the information I posted didn't answer the question you posed maybe other readers who find this thread may find it helpful.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
chapmanruss wrote: ↑Wed Jun 14, 2023 11:58 am
I unfortunately assumed everything was properly aligned and went down the rabbit hole thinking the problem with the difference in thickness was from the beginning to the end of the cut.
80spiders, my apologies. I did exactly the same thing as Russ. Also, cool username!
Russ and Ed - no problems and thank you for your interest and the comments/suggestions/information offered - all helpful. And, Ed, thank you for the compliment on the username.
PS - in an effort to cut down on the size of this post, I have tried to send PM's to a couple of responders but I must have some filter or block on my account - the messages are just stuck in the "outbox."
