Using a Shop Smith Mark V on a Chris Craft Roamer refit

[chapmanruss]

roamer46,

Having followed your post here for a long time now it is great to see it in the water. Through the delays, your efforts have paid off. A project you can truly be proud of. ENJOY.

[edflorence]

roamer 46;

That is an impressive rebuild of an impressive boat! Thanks for the video from the helm...looks like its a lot of fun to pilot that beauty! Congratulations on carrying such a large project through to an amazing finish.

[JPG]

It ain't "finished" yet, but at least it "functions".

Now to make it "livable" for Mrs.Q.

[roamer46]

Thanks guys!

Yup, JPG, the missus and I were just talking yesterday about current priorities and a functioning toilet topped the list, followed by fully commissioning the air conditioning systems. After an unusually pleasant spring and early summer, Swamp humidity has returned to normal with a vengeance. But after all the exciting posts involved in finally launching the boat and transiting to my new home port, the rest of the refit will probably seem mundane. lol

Since the refit began, mud dauber nests have been a persistent problem. I reckon I could fill a 5-gallon bucket with all of the mud nests I've removed over the years. A favorite point of entry has been the engine room air intake gills on the sides of the hull. I found some 304 stainless wire mesh with eight wires per inch (so ~1/8" square gaps between the wires) that will stop the bugs from entering through the gills without substantially restricting air flow. I used some leftover Bostik 70-08A windshield adhesive because that stuff bonds so well. As of several weeks ago, the engine room is now mud dauber-proof.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Mud Dauber Screens

Cheers,
Q

[roamer46]

Back to mundane refit stuff, I replaced a rotten salon cabinet panel back in 2015 but wanted a better appearance for the inner cabinet than what Chris Craft did. The original mahogany panels were gorgeous, and so were the cabinet doors. But when you opened the cabinets, the interiors were painted flat white or you just saw the bitumastic-coated hull. I made a proper cabinet box using varnished mahogany. It looks a lot better than the original approach.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Salon Cabinet Install

Cheers,
Q

Before


After

[roamer46]

One thing I've been plodding away on for the last two years is the salon sleeper sofa, which Chris Craft called a settee in the sales brochures. The missus liked the original design, and the missus gets what the missus likes. The original panels had rot in them, but they're good enough to use as pattern and to help me remember how it was originally constructed. It's a complex piece of furniture, but I've got a plan and this is a good first step.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Remaking the Salon Settee

Cheers,
Q

Before


Step 1

[roamer46]

I had some leftover scraps of Tricel lightweight panels, so I'm using them to recreate the salon settee. I'm very glad that I kept the original panels as patterns even though they had some rot in them. Between the patterns and different colored primer lines on the salon floor, I've been able to figure out where the new panels need to be. Then I applied mahogany veneers, Pettit stain, and ICA base coat clear before installing the main settee panel in the galley. It's coming along nicely.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Remaking the Salon Settee II

Cheers,
Q

Step 2

[roamer46]

I'm having trouble with my CAPAC impressed current anti-corrosion system controller. The meter swings between 5.5 (barely protected aluminum hull) to 7.5 (fully protected) but spends most of its time around 6-6.5, which is under protected. Turning the set-point adjustment potentiometer doesn't seem to change anything. This blog post has the schematic from the OEM CAPAC manual, and I've noted voltage readings that I took at many components. I also link to the manual, which has an excellent Theory of Operation section. Unfortunately, I don't speak transistor. If anybody with a grasp of electronics can take a peek and let me know what's wrong, I'd be much obliged.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Dialing in the CAPAC Anti-Corrosion System

Cheers,
Q

[thunderbirdbat]

I have not worked with electronics in years so not sure if this will help. While the components age, they change their values most stay within the allowed tolerance. On the resistors the gold band indicated +/- 5% while the silver band indicated +/- 10%. The other problem is that unless you de-solder the resistor, all putting jumpers around it will do is add a parallel path for the current to go. When I was a young Navy Electronics Tech I worked on some old equipment from the 1950's (about 30 years old) that looked similar to your circuit board. The equipment did not work but we removed and tested all the individual components and they were within tolerance. What we finally figured out was that although individually each components tested within their tolerances, together the difference in actual values were great enough for the entire circuit to not work correctly. We had to replace every component on the board to make the equipment work again. Also a problem that frequently occurred, was the adjustable resistor would not want to adjust and over time would return to what it was set at previously. Sometimes adjusting it through it's full range of values several times can help other times, it does not.

[roamer46]

Thanks thunderbirdbat! That's very useful information.

I only put jumpers on the 2w resistor on the assumption that the smoke had been let out of it and it was an open circuit. But jumping in another one of equal value didn't change anything, so I presumed the resistor got warm but didn't let the smoke out.

If all else fails, I'll start putting together a list of all the components I'd need to rebuild the CAPAC controller.

Thanks again!
Q