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Mark VII “Project Machine”

JPG

FWIW turning that dial does require substantial torque at even mid speeds(runaway high speed positions excepted!!!).

shipwright

I have shimmed carefully to be tight enough not to run away at the high end while keeping my cam centered in the follower. It works well.

JPG

Shimmed what? Detent thingies???

shipwright

Thin shims under the circlip that holds the control disc on will tighten the detents. In my case I need to centre the cam as well so thin shims where the arrow is in the picture will adjust the position of the cam in the follower while adjusting the detents at the same time. When you get the balance it works great.

With a standard cam just under the circlip should tighten the detents.

shipwright

I tried some wax on the cam. Now it turns down more easily to a low speed of 680ish. However it is under such pressure at that end that with the wax is slips back to around 720. I can live with that. 😁

lahola1

Yes, mine is hard to turn at slow speed also. I usually use 2 hands to turn it.

I also had to shim mine up at the shaft to get the detents to hold . Works great, no problems with speed drift anymore.

shipwright

This is for JPG.

Back on page 8 of this thread we were discussing what I might find inside the headstock of the greenie on the quill advance shaft. Well I got into it yesterday while replacing the gilmer belt. It was interesting. There were no washers at all inside, way too many on the spring side, and the cup washer under the quill brake. It actually kind of worked if you cranked the brake hard enough. The last picture is the “extras” for the spares drawer.

SplintersNmeoveralls

How to lubricate...

I have the Woodmaster 7 in 1 1981 Version of the shop smith 7-1.

It came with a green manual that states to turn on and set speed dial to Route-Shape first then turn off. Remove the name plate on back of headstock, hand turn spindle until a hole can be seen in the shaft. Add 3 drops of oil. No hole.

Also states there are holes in the motor shaft under the spring. Nope! Not there either. A 1 1/2" tube extends as the shaft sleeve then its wrapped or surrounded by a spring. I'm supposed to hand turn spindle until the hole is exposed, but there isnt a hole.

I could get some oil in between the sleeve and shaft that extends from inside of spring but that may just make a mess.

I need to get this thing lubricated.

SplintersNmeoveralls

Wow! Great job.

But how would you handle lubricating this.

I have the Woodmaster 7 in 1 1981 Version of the shop smith 7-1.

It came with a green manual that states to turn on and set speed dial to Route-Shape first then turn off. Remove the name plate on back of headstock, hand turn spindle until a hole can be seen in the shaft. Add 3 drops of oil. No hole.

Also states there are holes in the motor shaft under the spring. Nope! Not there either. A 1 1/2" tube extends as the shaft sleeve then its surrounded by a spring. I'm supposed to hand turn spindle until the hole is exposed, but there isnt a hole.

I could get some oil in between the sleeve and shaft that extends from inside of spring but that may just make a mess.

I need to get this thing lubricated.

Pls lend me some of your knowledge.

See my pics on maintenance post How to lubricate.

3.pdf

spring.pdf

image_6487327.JPG.pdf

chapmanruss

To comment on SplintersNmeoveralls posts above go to the thread "How to lubricate when there are no holes for lubrication" which already has responses posted. No need to duplicate information here.

shipwright

I do have holes for lubrication however. The motor shaft is original and the shortening and pressing in of the Mark V sleeve only hid half of the lubricating hole so I can still access it.

JerryGarcia

shipwright wrote I finally got the Mark V control sheave assembly from my eBay order. Pressing the sleeve through the sheave, cutting 1/4” off, and pressing it back went quite easily in my veneer press. Unfortunately the process damaged the button bearing so I didn’t get to prove it would work. I punched it out and replaced it with the Mark VII follower and reassembled everything. It took a little adjusting with custom spacers and washers but I’m happy with the results so far.

My rpm range is about 830 on the low end to 5200 on the top end, measured with an optical tachometer. Not sure why it won’t get down to 700 but I’m not too worried about that. The only glitch at the moment seems to be that the detent bumps seem to lose their power toward the high end. I think a tiny modification to my custom spacer inside between the cam and the control shaft housing might tighten it up.

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A couple of short videos of the machine running up and down.

I am in the process of refurbing my vii and thinking this is my only option as well. The inner diameter and keyway in my speed control sheave is worn a bit and rattles. I must not have noticed when it was all gummed up but now that it’s clean sounds aweful. Has this held up for you once the bushing is pressed out and pressed back into the sheave?

shipwright

No problems so far but I haven’t used it much. That said I see no reason to doubt that it is as good an new.

JerryGarcia

shipwright wrote No problems so far but I haven’t used it much. That said I see no reason to doubt that it is as good an new.

Thanks! Another question i haven’t been able to find answer for do you know is the cam follower bearing in the mark vii control sheave the same size as the button bearing in the mark v sheave?

shipwright

Yes, as I remember it fit right in with a little interference, enough to keep it in place.

JerryGarcia

Thanks again! Your project mark vii machine looks great. Mine has been rusting away in my dirt floor barn for the past 10 years. After a complete teardown, including motor, re-switching, new gear rack, bearings, and painting and polishing this control sheave rattle had me almost to my knees. Super happy to have found your post.

shipwright

I was pretty happy to find that it was doable myself. Mark VII control sheaves aren’t easy to come by.

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