New Power Station Motor Or Fix It

[glarson]

The 3/4 hp Emerson motor on my power station seized up completely. One second happily cutting away with the band saw, then it came to a screatching hault; nothing but a buzz sound coming from the motor. Cut the power ASAP. Spent the past couple of days trying to understand what I need to do to get it up and going again. I learned that it's not the typical motor frequently shown/discussed in this forum or youtube. The nameplate claims to have "permanently lubricated ball bearings", and the user manual reads that no maintenance of the motor is needed. I know little about electric motors except the basic physics and wiring behind them. I've never rebuilt a motor or replaced bearings on them, but I have on cars, trucks, etc. Not afraid to try and mess up. Took apart the motor (with some effort...really seized up on the shaft), and I noticed that it does not appear to have ball bearings at all, or at least to the best of my limited experience. Looking in other forum posts I believe it has packed bushings on both ends. In my ignorance I attempted to remove what I thought were damaged bearings, so I believe I may screwed things up more. I tried using a torch, removed the packing material, pounded on what I believed were bearings with hammer, etc. I'm about to give up with rebuilding this motor. I can't seem to find instructions on how I go about replacing these bushings or even if they can be replaced. I'd love to avoid spending the money on a new motor, but short of getting help and instruction on what needs to happen to get this motor up and running again, a new motor may be the easiest fix. I'm also confused by why it reads it needs no lubrication, but I see what appears to be lubrication holes on both bell ends and what looks like a path for oil to travel to the bushings. That said first question: Any recommendations on where to buy a new motor that works with the power station (specs to shop for etc. too)? Second question Could someone point me in the right direction on where I may find instructions, photos, videos, on how I would fix this motor? Pics included.
Thanks in advance!! Greatly appreciated!

[80spiders]

I have no answers to your questions but i do know that Scott Markwood did a video on My Growth Rings about the lubrication of these motors.

[dusty]

There is one image of the motor windings that might show evidence of a short in the windings. Can't tell for sure. However, the rest of the motor does not look bad. When you say seized up do you mean physically can not be turned. With no power applied you should be able to spin the shaft. If you can not, the problem is most likely not electrical. If you can not spin the shaft I suggest that you reassemble the motor and take it to a motor repair shop.

If you decide to giveup on repair - get back to me by PM. I would be interested in the remains.

I think it is reparable!

BTW I have two motors just like that one in service and I oil them annually. Just a couple drops in each oil hole. Mine are up in years - maybe 12-13 years old and are running smoothly.

[DLB]

Not too long ago Shopsmith still had these motors, but I only know that because I saw them in a clearance ad so they might be gone. It wouldn't hurt to ask Customer Service. An electric motor shop might have a direct replacement, it is not unique like the Mark 5/V motor. If you take the motor into a shop looking for a replacement take the pulley too, they might have one with a different shaft size which would only require a pulley to work. More power should be an acceptable alternative. Bushing motors do require lubrication, so this label seems to be incorrect. IMO the 'no lubrication required' statement on Power Stations isn't even close, I also grease the speed control sheaves and shaft. Or I did when I used mine.

If you have the floor space, a cut down mini Mark 5/V is an excellent alternative to the Power Station. It is quieter, more powerful, has better speed control (can run the Jointer) and provides storage for a second SPT. On the used market it is easier to find and often less expensive. Repair parts are readily available both new and used and the motor has sealed ball bearings. The 'accessory spindle' is also far more useful.

- David

[dusty]

If you still have it apart, you might consider just taking the end caps to a motor shop to have the bearings replaced. Any reputable shop has the ability and supplies to do that.

[glarson]

Dusty: Completely seized = couldn't turn the shaft at all, not even with an 18" torque bar. Had to use hydraulic puller just to separate shaft from front bell. Nothing to loose taking it in to an electric motor place...If I can find one around here. RE Oiling: guess that's what I get following the directions.

DLB: Nothing to loose calling Shopsmith. Every time I order from them, takes forever to get items & frequently incorrect. Frustrating. If I take it to a shop, I'll be sure to take the pulley; wise advice. A little put out about the whole no need to lubricate directions. My lack of knowledge does play into that too so taking ownership of that instead of blaming others. Maybe someday I'll look into a mini option, when I have more resources available.

If I were to say shop online for a new motor (and I was reluctant to reach out to shopsmith) any suggestions?
I'm still interested in learning how to fix my self; just need the right guidance.

Thanks for the replies/feedback!

[dusty]

Dusty: Completely seized = couldn't turn the shaft at all, not even with an 18" torque bar. Had to use hydraulic puller just to separate shaft from front bell. Nothing to loose taking it in to an electric motor place...If I can find one around here. RE Oiling: guess that's what I get following the directions.

DLB: Nothing to loose calling Shopsmith. Every time I order from them, takes forever to get items & frequently incorrect. Frustrating. If I take it to a shop, I'll be sure to take the pulley; wise advice. A little put out about the whole no need to lubricate directions. My lack of knowledge does play into that too so taking ownership of that instead of blaming others. Maybe someday I'll look into a mini option, when I have more resources available.

If I were to say shop online for a new motor (and I was reluctant to reach out to shopsmith) any suggestions?
I'm still interested in learning how to fix my self; just need the right guidance.

Thanks for the replies/feedback!

Some guidance is available here on this forum BUT it is limited by the fact that we are all flying blind. Like my comment about oiling. Since my process is contrary to Shopsmith directions I may being wasting time and oil. I oiled simply because there were holes that appeared to be for that purpose.

My advise though. Don't discard your parts. There are some that are marketable.

[DLB]

If I were to say shop online for a new motor (and I was reluctant to reach out to shopsmith) any suggestions?
I'm still interested in learning how to fix my self; just need the right guidance.

Shop online: My first thoughts were Zoro and Grainger. Of the two, Grainger appears to have a far superior set of filters to help you find a suitable replacement.
Guidance: There is a lot of information on induction motor repairs on line. This site isn't ideal, I have repaired a few induction motors but only of the ball bearing type. Perhaps unfairly, I look at a bushing motor as a throw-away. This type, with an accessible oil reservoir, probably isn't intended that way. IIWM I'd start by looking at replacing the oiled bushings with sealed bearings, possibly necessitating replacing the end caps. Before investing much time and money into it I would check the stator windings for shorts/opens with an ohm meter, same for the rotor if possible. (Most rotor tests are not static on a disassembled motor, but IIRC winding resistance can be tested.)

In other threads, I've seen that users serious about maintaining the Power Station motor have had to 'clock' one or both end caps so that the reservoirs and fill ports are at the proper angle relative to vertical. IIRC I did this on mine and the two were senselessly 90 degrees different from one another and neither was correct.

- David

[BuckeyeDennis]

I recalled that the label on my Power Station motor specified lubrication intervals, but didn't see that on glarson's motor label. So here's a pic that I just took of mine.

Motor label.JPG (344.6 KiB) Viewed 658 times

Note that the motor model number is exactly the same on both labels. Yet glarson's label declares that THIS MOTOR HAS PERMANENTLY LUBRICATED BALL BEARINGS NO RELUBRICATION NECESSARY", whereas mine specifies oiling intervals. This is inexcusably sloppy documentation / version control by Emerson.

In the "POWER STATION MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE table in my printed copy of the manual (from Sept. 1989), in the "Lubrication" row it states: "No additional lubrication is required, because the bearings are permanenty lubricated throughout the machine." "Sept. 22 '90" is handwritten on the front cover, presumably by the original owner to note the purchase date. So it appears that Shopsmith failed to update their manual after Emerson changed the label, and possibly the bearings, on that motor model.

When I purchased my machine used in 2012, the motor bearings felt and sounded a bit rough. So I disassembled it, and discovered that it had sleeve bearings, not ball bearings. And that they were running dry. But after I cleaned, oiled, and ran them in a little, the bearings felt and sounded perfectly smooth.

All this reminds me that my bearings are way past due for re-oiling, even for "OCCASIONAL DUTY". It's been 10 years now, but I filled the reservoirs with the specified 150 drops of oil at the time, and the bearings still seem happy.

So Dusty, I definitely don't think that you are "wasting your oil"!

[edma194]

Just going to second going to a motor shop. Take all the parts and ask for their advice. Motor shops around here have all become more expensive in recent years but the price just to replace the bearings might be very reasonable.