New Owner

[DLB]

Apart from not turning speed control, is there anything else that is a BIG NO NO I should be aware of?

The oldest Mark 5s don't have a safety ground or three wire power cord unless modified by a previous owner. I would encourage you to add the ground or check it if it has been added. Grounding has been standard on metal frame tools for a long time, but not quite as long as the Mark series has been around.

- David

[chapmanruss]

From the 3rd picture in your last post, I see the red putty is still in the collar's set screw hole. This tells me the Quill has never been disassembled. If you extend the Quill out further, you will see a groove in the top of the Quill. There is another set screw that is covered at the factory with putty through the top of the Headstock casting as indicated in the picture below. That Full Dog End Set Screw keeps the Quill oriented and stops it from coming all the way out of the Headstock.

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1982 Headstock Quill Set Screw.jpg (134.81 KiB) Viewed 496 times

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That set screw needs to be partially backed out so the Quill can be removed from the Headstock for cleaning and maintenance. If the hole still has putty covering it the Quill has not been removed to this point.

When you asked,

I'm curious to know if I can grind down the casting seam in the headstock?

If you are referring to the top of the Headstock where that Quill set screw is I would recommend leaving it as is.

There is a lot of debris build up around the Idler Shaft mounting so I can't be sure but it does appear it has the Idler Retainers that the clamping screw goes through to keep the Idler Shaft in place. This is one of those additional warnings you asked about. Do NOT overtighten the Cap Screw & Nut that holds the Idler Shaft Assembly in the Main Headstock Casting. Overtightening can break the casting. Those retainers were added to the Headstock when it was found that the Cap Screw & Nut were not enough to keep the Idler Shaft Assembly from moving in and out of its mounting point. In the section of the manual shown below the Retainers are on the left side of the picture as part number A3274 just under the Idler Shaft Eccentric.

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Motor p26 8-55 .jpg (105.66 KiB) Viewed 496 times

[OlympicFail]

Apart from not turning speed control, is there anything else that is a BIG NO NO I should be aware of?

The oldest Mark 5s don't have a safety ground or three wire power cord unless modified by a previous owner. I would encourage you to add the ground or check it if it has been added. Grounding has been standard on metal frame tools for a long time, but not quite as long as the Mark series has been around.

- David

It has already been converted.

Chapmanruss, I think I found my first real issue. My quill won't advance past where you see in the pic. It extends fairly smoothly until it hits a hard stop. Hopefully its just gunk in the splines. Its going to be a week or better before I get a chance to work on it some more. I backed out the set screw on the top of the case 3 full turns and it made no difference.

I cleaned up the grinding dust and you are correct the Idler Retainer clip thingy is there.

[JPG]

I hope "grinding dust" is a figure of speech!

As for sandblasting the headstock, I would go the citrusstrip route.

I would only remove flash from the seam.*sprue?"

As for bearings, VXB is a decent source(not the best re the quill).

Quit using a phone for a camera or ALWAYS take pix in landscape orientation.

[OlympicFail]

Grinding dust is not a figure of speech unfortunately. I pulled the motor off and got my first chance to look inside. Bunches more grinding dust inside. To the point I think it plugged up the splines on the quill extender.

Otherwise the thing looks to be in good shape. Would there be a reason to replace the power switch or the wiring inside the headstock. The cloth jacket is super dry and is starting to crack.
The previous owner installed a three prong male plug but the other side has the ground lead taped down and not connected to anything so thats on the list of updates.

The speed controller is such a simple solution! I'm impressed with how non complicated this thing is.

[edma194]

As for sandblasting the headstock, I would go the citrusstrip route.

I sandblasted a headstock, and other Shopsmith aluminum castings. I did start with a stripper to get most of the paint off first, but the aluminum came out fine using coal slag media, probably #30. Kept the pressure down to just what was needed to get the rest of the paint off. Got a very nice finish for painting.

It's not hard to use a stripper and sandpaper to clean the old paint off. But if you are set up to blast might as well do it.

[JPG]

i do not recall mentioning sand paper use with citrustrip.

[OlympicFail]

I have some walnut hull media I want to blast this case with. I'm not too worried about that. I've torn the guts out of the case and have found some spots where the casting isn't very good but its in non critical areas so its meh. The roll pin that attaches the headstock lock handle to the threaded rod is very much stuck. Possibly cold fused to the aluminum. Thats going to be a pain to deal with. I've had it soaking in PB blaster for the past 2 days and still no luck.

The belts look original and in surprisingly good shape. The splines on the main shaft are in seemingly poor shape. My coworker thinks they are good enough to run for a long while. What's the groups thoughts? Two of the bearings on the main shaft feel a bit bumpy, they still turn but not freely. I'm glad I didnt run this machine too much before pulling it apart. I'll plan to replace all the main bearings.

Does the sliding contact surface between the speed control arm and the adjustable pulley need to be shiny smooth? Its full of grime and surface rust now. I didn't know how close to mirrored that needs to be.

I'm going to need to do a little bit of work on the speed dial. The whole mechanism needs a good cleaning and the gears need cleaned up. Some surface rust on the steel gear but all of the teeth look to be in ok condition. The little flat spring was broke and rattling around in the wheel.

[edma194]

i do not recall mentioning sand paper use with citrustrip.

I agree with you.

[chapmanruss]

That is a lot of wear on that Gilmer Drive Sleeve Assembly. I don't know why the belt would wear it down so much through normal use even considering its age. If the Bearings are not turning smoothly, they should be replaced. Poorly turning bearings will rob power between the motor and Quill. You may want to consider getting a replacement for the Gilmer Drive Sleeve Assembly having less wear. They do come up for sale from time to time but look at the condition of it carefully before you decide to buy one. I am still puzzled by the grime found inside the Headstock and where it may have come from. A lot of cleaning and TLC yet to do. As the parts get cleaned up it will be time to decide what may need replacing due to wear.

You asked,

Does the sliding contact surface between the speed control arm and the adjustable pulley need to be shiny smooth? Its full of grime and surface rust now. I didn't know how close to mirrored that needs to be.

Clean and smooth will be fine with the rust and grime removed. It doesn't have to be a mirror finish.