I inherited a 1985 Mark V Shop Smith and have been trying to learn how to use it to make turkey calls. I have had some success but this week I encountered a problem i can't seem to fix. I don't know anyone local to me who uses one of these machines so I am trying to learn here.
Long story short, using an Amazon Vinwox chuck https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088B ... UTF8&psc=1
I also have been using the adapter to take the shopsmith to 1 x 8" TIP. Worked great for about 2 weeks and then started spinning off just before the machine slowed down. I experimented with teflon tape on the adapter, but that didn't work it still spins off.
When I take the chuck off, the machine seems to run true and doesn't have any additional issues. I tried another chuck (Wen) and it did the same thing. I tried another adapter and it did the same thing by spinning off just before the machine stops.
Any idea what would cause this?
Mark V chuck spinning off
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JPG
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Re: Mark V chuck spinning off
Inertia.
Does the chuck have a locking set screw to secure the adapter to the chuck? Teflon tape likely made it worse(low friction fit).
With no locking set screw(with pad to prevent scaring the adapter threads) the adapter MUST be torqued to the chuck with considerable force.
IF you intend to only use the adapter with that chuck, try BLUE locktight (sparingly)[or nail polish]. Allow them to dry fully before use.
Does the chuck have a locking set screw to secure the adapter to the chuck? Teflon tape likely made it worse(low friction fit).
With no locking set screw(with pad to prevent scaring the adapter threads) the adapter MUST be torqued to the chuck with considerable force.
IF you intend to only use the adapter with that chuck, try BLUE locktight (sparingly)[or nail polish]. Allow them to dry fully before use.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Mark V chuck spinning off
Gotcha. I did try blue loctite but don’t let it dry well enough
Also this started happened when the machine developed a vibration with the Chuck.
Thanks for the info and I’ll try letting it dry and torquing it. I think my switch went bad because now the motor won’t work suddenly.
Also this started happened when the machine developed a vibration with the Chuck.
Thanks for the info and I’ll try letting it dry and torquing it. I think my switch went bad because now the motor won’t work suddenly.
Re: Mark V chuck spinning off
Welcome to the forum! I think 'spinning off' means the chuck unthreading itself from the threaded adapter, so if that's wrong please clarify exactly what is separating. Most chucks have a setscrew, and the pictures you linked to on Amazon appear to show a hole for one.(?)
It would also be a good idea to investigate the vibration once you get the motor sorted out. Ideally you want to check vibration and/or runout without the chuck before checking with it. A lathe faceplate works well for this if you have one, preferably the large one. A steel sanding disc will also work, but they usually have more runout and don't make a great reference. A dial indicator is great for this, but you can accomplish the same thing locking a long allen wrench or similar in the miter gauge.
- David
It would also be a good idea to investigate the vibration once you get the motor sorted out. Ideally you want to check vibration and/or runout without the chuck before checking with it. A lathe faceplate works well for this if you have one, preferably the large one. A steel sanding disc will also work, but they usually have more runout and don't make a great reference. A dial indicator is great for this, but you can accomplish the same thing locking a long allen wrench or similar in the miter gauge.
- David