New to me ER10 Issues - Way Tubes and motor question....

[sm69th]

Hi All,
I have a brand new (to me) ER10 with a couple problems I am looking for advice on how to address them...



My first problem isn't I can't get the headstock to move on the way tubes:

The tie bar at the end on the left moves on the way tubes with the assistance of a hammer....

The carriage (that the table saw portion is mounted into) moves freely back and forth like butter...

The Headstock (with the motor mounted below it) only moves with a 2 x 4 and really big hammer. It is that tight/bound.

I have cleaned the tubes quite a bit and there are no rough spots. In terms of attempting to adjust the way tubes, I removed the two set screws from the tie bar. I have removed 1from the base plate arm on the right. At the moment the other set screw won't come out. I have tried PB blaster, liquid wrench, brute force, it just won't move.

Any ideas? I assume the headstock is supposed to move pretty freely like the carriage.

Problem #2 - In the past. someone bypassed the on/off switch! I suspect they had the machine plugged into an outlet on a switch and used that.

If I drop the motor down, I can see it is directly connected. If I look inside of where the switch would be, there are 4 terminals. I assume 2 from from the positive/negative of the motor and 2 from the positive/negative of the cord. But I don't know which wire goes where! Anyone know the pinout or have a picture so i can re-connect the wires to the correct terminal and be able to use the switch that came with the shopsmith?

Any assistance would be appreciated. The machine is new to me and I love the premise of it, it just needs a little love to get it working properly again!

Thank You in Advance...

[Real1shepperd]

If you've got an old can of Johnson paste wax...THAT'S what you need for your way tubes. If not, the newer Miniwax stuff is as good(I think). But you need to get some fine bronze wool and start polishing the way tubes smooth. I prefer bronze wool because steel wool leaves small chards that rust. I never removed my headstock, but just kept polishing the way tubes until the headstock moved freely. Yes, without the speed changer, you should be able to move the headstock freely/easily.

No doubt if I took my headstock off and looked at the tube recesses, there might be some pitting. But I'm not that ambitious and with enough use/wax, it's not a problem.

If your ShopSmith logo plate has screws, you can take it off and access your start switch the easiest. I'll look tonight and see if I can take a pic of the switch. I had to rewire the whole machine and even replace the start capacitor which O posted here about. You've got some real experts here on this forum that REALLY know this machine. I'm still learning, but I'm a Journeyman mechanic.

Kevin

[chapmanruss]

sm69th,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum.

Since the Carriage moves on the Way Tubes and they aren't in that bad of shape the Headstock is either "gummed up" on the Way Tubes or the lock is not releasing. Try removing the Headstock Lock just above the Way Tube on the left side of the Headstock. It looks like yours is an earlier 10ER so it should have the double wedge locks like the type shown below.

_

Model 10ER V 4 and 5 Locks.jpg (171.35 KiB) Viewed 3059 times

.
The top lock is the Quill Lock (some vary) and the middle and bottom locks are the ones for the Headstock and Carriage Way Tube Locks. Removing the lock will have the rear wedge and nut come out the inside of the Headstock. It would be easier if you remove the motor and mount from the Headstock to work on this. You will need to unmount the motor and Mounting Plate to work on the switch anyway on an earlier Model 10ER. They don't have the access hole behind the Logo/Serial Number Plate. With the lock parts completely removed try sliding the Headstock toward the Carriage by hand. If it slides that direction remove the Tie Bar, remove the set screws from the other end and remove the Way Tubes from the Base and Arm to slide the Carriage and Headstock off the Way Tubes on that end. Both the Tie Bar and Base/Arm ends of the Way Tubes will be dimpled from the set screws and may cause the Carriage and Headstock from easily sliding past. A little filing of the raised part of the dimple will fix that. If it is still stuck remove the Tie Bar and clean, as Kevin suggested, the ends of the Way Tubes to allow the Headstock to slide off the Tie Bar end. If that is unsuccessful you may need more force so, try the 2 x 4 again with a smaller hammer. Your Model 10ER is not a bad as some of the Model 10E and 10ER Shopsmith's I have restored so you can get them apart. Once the Headstock is off the Way Tubes (and Carriage) remove the Way Tubes from the Base/Arm for cleaning both the Way Tubes and the Way Tube Holes in the Headstock as needed.

The OEM Switch used on the Model 10's is a standard Double Pole, Single Throw Switch with 4 terminals. When attaching the wires the hot (black) wires go on one side while the common (white) wires go on the other. It doesn't matter which side each goes on as long as the switch completes the circuit with black connecting to black and white connecting to white. A Single Pole, Single Throw Switch with 2 terminals can be used and only the black wires would be connected to the switch. If your Model 10ER still has the original switch and power cord I recommend replacing them. A plus is adding a ground wire to the Shopsmith that the 2 conductor OEM Power Cord didn't provide.

[JPG]

Be cautious re the gorr - hammer/2x4 method. Cast iron is tough, but can also be brittle(cracks!). Major thing its to NOT get anything cocked.

Do not be impatient - only apply sufficient force to get it to continue to move no matter how small the movement may be.

[Real1shepperd]

As usual, Russ is a serious font of information! Lots of owners here are old-school and extremely helpful with these old machines.

I might add that when searching for these machines, I would guess that most have stayed within a pickup truck's driving range from where they were originally sold. I.e., it's not likely the owners had them moved across the country or even out of the state....due to the bulk/weight. Most people will sell a big table saw for example, rather than move it long distances. Also, I don't think large numbers of these went to the landfills unless they were seriously rusted out or damaged......they just moved on to new owners or relatives. The relative 'passed on' card is huge. There are always at least five 10ERs for sale in the LA/San Diego area. But as I've mentioned before, seeing the machine and dealing with 'ghost' sellers there is maddening. They 'can't be bothered'.

Kevin

[JPG]

Ghost sellers? ?advertise, then not respond?