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Well Maintained Model ER

Redcloudz

[attachment=0]IMG_20240604_160720_577.jpg[/attachment]

JPG

Redcloudz wrote IMG_20240604_160720_577.jpg

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Redcloudz

Not so well maintained but for the price I ain't complaining

chapmanruss

It does look like your Model 10ER has the 4th version of the Headstock. They range from serial numbers with the ER prefix in the 10,000's into the 30,000's. The serial numbers begin and end higher for those with the R prefix having the 4th Headstock version.

As for your Mark 5 it is not hopeless. I restored a 1957 Greenie that was in pretty bad shape including some bad rust pitting on the Quill and the Pinion (Quill Feed) that had to be replaced. Below are before and after pictures.

Above is how I found it when I went to pick it up.

The Bench Tubes came out nice after the rust removal. The Quill, Pinion, Speed Control Assembly, Switch and Power Cord all needed replacing besides other parts needing replacements or were missing. The Saw Blade Arbor and the Lathe Chisels are not original to that era of Mark 5.

Real1shepperd

You can put larger motors on than the standard 1/2 hp.....but I'd stay with that until your woodworking skills fully develop. I'm just back into it after over 50 years. I like that the motor will stall rather than seriously kick back like the larger motors will do.

If you can afford it and sift through the liars who are selling seized-up speed changers, try to get one because it opens up a whole new world of adjustment ease.

Kevin

Redcloudz

Kevin I'm brand new to the Shop Smith community so I don't know squat about these machines. I'm not sure what a speed changer is but there is some type of adjustment wheel on the side of the headstock. Also not trying to be rude or a smart-@$$ but I've been a woodworker all my life and have operated the largest and most sophisticated machines you can imagine so these little old shop Smith's don't intimidate me in the least. I have suffered a broken finger because of kickback in the early stages of my education but I'm a quick learner because I'm pretty fond of all my fingers lol.

Redcloudz

Russ....I've determined that the motor humm is definitely the start capacitor. Have you ever had to replace one on any of the machines you have restored? The one on my Mark 5 is 270-390 mfd. The only thing I have found online only goes up to 324 mfd's. What's your thoughts on this?

JPG

Consider this. Start capacitor tolerances were greater 50 yrs ago. The median value of the 270 to 390 is very close to 324.

Assuming it IS the start cap, 324 will do very well.

Now HOW did you determine yours is "bad"? Is it shorted? Is it open?

Have you checked the start switch?

Not trying to second guess thee, but rather to prevent unnecessary cap purchase.

chapmanruss

I would follow JPG's recommendation on the start capacitor. Out of all the Model 10E, 10ER, Mark 5/V and Mark 2 Shopsmith's I have restored, including those waiting to be restored, I have yet to have a bad start capacitor. That includes 2 original, very early A. O. Smith 1/2 HP motors (shown below) on my Model 10E first production tools which are now over 76 years old.

A O Smith 1-2 HP Motor early version r.jpg

Although not a problem, one of the confusing parts in this topic is now going between the Model 10ER and the Mark 5. I believe Kevin's comment about staying with a 1/2 HP motor refers to the Model 10ER. Mark 5/V's started with a 3/4 HP motor going to the 1-1/8 HP motor in the early 1960's.

Something I noticed in the picture of your Model 10ER is the flexible shaft and how it is attached to the spindle. :confused:

It is not how the Shopsmith/Magna Flexible Shaft attaches. I also have a flexible shaft made by another manufacturer which goes directly on a 1/2" shaft which can be used on a Shopsmith using the Flexible Shaft Adapter. That is one of two interesting things I saw in that picture. The other is the use of the knob instead of a set screw for holding the Motor Mount Bracket in the Headstock. That knob is probably missing from its original spot on the Model 10ER.

Redcloudz

Russ thanks for your observation but just understand that the machine is exactly how it was the day I picked it up. I know SQUAT about ShopSmith which is the reason I'm here. I know that there are some old "diehards" here that wouldn't mind giving a green hand a little knowledge! And I DO respect every bit of info you guys are posting. The way I learned that the capacitor is bad was by removing the bottom cover and observing that one of the capacitor terminals was detached.... COMPLETELY detached. So I found an old capacitor here and hooked it to the motor in a no load position (belt removed). Flipped the switch and she ran like a Cadillac. The capacitor is weak so it definitely will not start the motor under a load. That being said I'm just gonna order the 270-324 unit since it obviously has to have a new one anyway. On another note I dug thru a plastic tote full of stuff that came with my ER and could use a little help identifying some parts. I feel pretty certain that #3 is a broken speed changer but have no clue on the other pieces. Thanks in advance!

IMG_20240610_135654_366~2.jpg

Redcloudz

Oh I almost forgot....where do y'all buy the paint for these machines?

jsburger

Redcloudz wrote Russ thanks for your observation but just understand that the machine is exactly how it was the day I picked it up. I know SQUAT about ShopSmith which is the reason I'm here. I know that there are some old "diehards" here that wouldn't mind giving a green hand a little knowledge! And I DO respect every bit of info you guys are posting. The way I learned that the capacitor is bad was by removing the bottom cover and observing that one of the capacitor terminals was detached.... COMPLETELY detached. So I found an old capacitor here and hooked it to the motor in a no load position (belt removed). Flipped the switch and she ran like a Cadillac. The capacitor is weak so it definitely will not start the motor under a load. That being said I'm just gonna order the 270-324 unit since it obviously has to have a new one anyway. On another note I dug thru a plastic tote full of stuff that came with my ER and could use a little help identifying some parts. I feel pretty certain that #3 is a broken speed changer but have no clue on the other pieces. Thanks in advance!

First welcome to the forum. We are here to help.

You are correct on #3

#1 is the extension table.

#2 is the jointer/shaper fence

#4 is a sanding disk

#5 is parts from a work hold down system. Unusable without the rest of the parts. Think feather boards.

#6 Not sure. It doesn't look like a SS part.

#7 is the miter slot extension that fits on the front of the table on the fence bar.

#8 is the table raiser arm. It goes on the table post and engages the screw crank in the carriage to raise and lower the main table.

Redcloudz

Thank you John. This is much appreciated.

Harold

chapmanruss

Since John has already identified the parts I won't repeat that. Don't get rid of the broken Speed Changer since parts can be used to make another one work. The Pulley Assembly could go on one that is missing it. As for the Sanding Disk #4 it is not a Shopsmith/Magna one but if it has a 5/8" bore it could mount on the Spindle. It is common to get non-Shopsmith parts with a used Shopsmith.

Below is my Model 10ER which shows the Extension Table in place on the Tailstock. The Miter is sitting on the Front Table ExtensionCommunity and it is hard to see but the Table Riser Arm #8 is there on the front table post above the Carriage. The crank going up through the bottom of the Carriage pushes on the Table Riser Arm to adjust the height of the Table. DO NOT CRANK the Table Riser to raise the Table with the Table Locks on the Carriage locked. That can damage the Table Riser Assembly especially the arm.

chapmanruss

Since you have the motor "Detached" it would be a good time to determine the condition of the Headstock Bearings. Turning the Headstock Pulley by hand does it turn easily and smoothly? If so great but if not remove the Quill Assembly from the Headstock to see which bearings are bad, the Quill or Drive Sleeve Bearings. To remover the Quill first remove the locking nuts and square hole washer off the Gauge Rod. Turn the Quill extension handle to extend the quill all the way out until it releases. Pull the Quill the rest of the way out of the Headstock but DO NOT let go of the handle. Turn the handle back to remove the spring tension before letting it go. With the Quill out you can check the bearings in it to see if they turn easily and smoothly. The same can be done for the Drive Sleeve Assembly which is still in the Headstock. If either the Quill or Drive Sleeve Assembly does not turn easily or smoothly the bearings should be replaced. Both the Quill and Drive Sleeve Assembly each have two bearings.

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