Update 9-04-09 Decided to add this thread index indicating which post numbers contain certain info. The thread is so long that it is difficult to easily find particulars. Hope this helps. I'll complete it soon.
Caution label - Recreating headstock caution labels - 87, 102, 113, 120, 125, 128 (final pdf file for greenie shown on the left AND goldie caution label shown on the right ), entire sheet of labels formated for avery label stock 136, 140 (final product on my greeine)
Taking it slow and steady. I’m completely disassembled and inspected. All parts are in Ziploc bags, by family, and identified by ref. #.
[ATTACH]5170[/ATTACH]
There is nothing worse that tackling a disassembly jobs and ending out with a pile of parts that you have little clue as to what the heck they are and where the heck they belong. Learned that lesson as a teen disassembling an automatic transmission. Realized they sure do come apart easy but try putting them back together from a pile. You soon realize that you either need an outstanding memory……(NOT)…..or a “system”. Believe me, chose the latter.
Now that the beast is fully disassembled and inspected, the process of cleaning is next. There’s a ton of rusty steel and dull aluminum that needs attention. I started the rust removal today. Decided to use electrolysis for as much as I can. I hate hand / wire cleaning rust.
Here’s pics of the retractable the caster assy b4 electolysis. They are completely frozen up. I’ll show you the afters later. (afters are in post 187) They’ve been soaking in the bath all day. I'll take them out tonight for a peek to see how they are progressing.
Thanks for the update, Mike! Like others, I feel that I'm almost involved with you in the process. You certainly have a great gift for writing, and photography. Keep 'em coming!:D
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Interesting, first time I've seen the tank used as part of the system... mostly have seen re-bar used. It is sure a good way to get the rust off. Can't wait to see the results!
Great idea on storing the parts in the bags. Another thing that works great is to take a lot of pictures... since you have the camera take a few snap shot and that way you can see how it looked as it comes apart. I know this has help me a lot since I've gotten older... use to be I could remember but now I get confused, perhaps you aren't at that point yet???
How do you dispose of the "gunk"?
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
As long as BOTH your cathod (the material you use to connect your workpiece to the negative black lead with) and more importantly your anode (the material you connect the positive red lead to, in my case the sheet metal around the tank) is made of plain carbon steel and NOT plated i.e. zinc, cad, galvanized etc., or worse, made of stainless steel, the gunk is environmentally friendly. It is merely iron and the washing soda which is safe enough to pour on your lawn, bushes, garden etc. If your anemic, you can even slug down a 16 ouncer of the stuff............obviously JUST KIDDING on the sluging.
Don't use STAINLESS STEEL. Although it functions better than the carbon steel, it puts hexavalent chromium (Cr6 )into the solution which is environmently NASTY and illegal to dump.
Well is sounds like you have it covered. If you have pine trees I understand they like iron at least according to my brother who lets stuff rest in a bucket of water then adds it to the drip line of the pine trees???
Ed
mickyd wrote:As long as BOTH your cathod (the material you use to connect your workpiece to the negative black lead with) and more importantly your anode (the material you connect the positive red lead to, in my case the sheet metal around the tank) is made of plain carbon steel and NOT plated i.e. zinc, cad, galvanized etc., or worse, made of stainless steel, the gunk is environmentally friendly. It is merely iron and the washing soda which is safe enough to pour on your lawn, bushes, garden etc. If your anemic, you can even slug down a 16 ouncer of the stuff............obviously JUST KIDDING on the sluging.
Don't use STAINLESS STEEL. Although it functions better than the carbon steel, it puts hexavalent chromium (Cr6 )into the solution which is environmently NASTY and illegal to dump.
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I can't wait to see this one's progress.... thanks for posting.
Thanks also for your one photo that ID's some steel rods as the components of the Caster set.... I have one lonely sample of those steel rods sitting in my junk-box and I've spent a good many instances wondering where it came from.
Mike, very interesting. Looking forward to your "After" photos of the caster assys. Can you expound a little on the electrolysis process? You mentioned Washing Soda, is that TSP or something else? Any other details would be appreciated.
ShopSmith MarkV-520 with Belt Sander, Jointer, Band Saw, Strip Sander, Scroll Saw and Biscuit Jointer SPTs and a DC-3300...
Woodworking Hobbyist (Check out all my Woodworking Plans (http://vbwhiz.isa-geek.net/plans)
Aspiring Sandcarver: Breaking glass one grain at a time.
Black Powder Shooter (love the smell of burning sulfur).
Last edited by beeg on Sat Sep 14, 2019 12:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
Bob, thanks for the link. Always learning something new...
ShopSmith MarkV-520 with Belt Sander, Jointer, Band Saw, Strip Sander, Scroll Saw and Biscuit Jointer SPTs and a DC-3300...
Woodworking Hobbyist (Check out all my Woodworking Plans (http://vbwhiz.isa-geek.net/plans)
Aspiring Sandcarver: Breaking glass one grain at a time.
Black Powder Shooter (love the smell of burning sulfur).
A lot of guys over on http://www.owwm.org/ use this method to restore old iron. There they call it spooging. http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/electrolysis.htm has a nice write up and lots of photos on it. You can just leave the solution in the container and cover it until the next time you feel the urge to remove rust.
Dick
SS equipment. '89 510 (upgrade to 520), beltsander, pro planer, SS dust collector, 2 bandsaws, jointer, strip sander (production unit #1), OPR, scroll saw, Power Station, Incra TSIII Ultra Fence System& Wonder Fence plus (2) 50 year old DeWalt RASs and Incra miter express with miter gauge