Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
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Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
Pictures should explain better than words. 1) unaligned, 2) aligned by adjusting that larger Allen screw under the left (facing the headstock) way tube. Question about 3). Headstock moves smoothly; should I "micro-adjust" setscrews beneath the way tubes or just set it back? Yeah, I know I'm one of those. I reset the clocks to the minute. Close counts in horseshoes, hand grenades & government work (well that was last century) but not clocks or Shopsmith.
About the pink thingie. I made a ramp to use when on my back doing plumbing work under cabinets. They are all the same height. I've found all sorts of use for it.
About the pink thingie. I made a ramp to use when on my back doing plumbing work under cabinets. They are all the same height. I've found all sorts of use for it.
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- JPG
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Re: Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
Personally I do NOT recommend adjusting that big set screw for anything other than eliminating way tube twist.
I suggest you move the tail stock etc. to the other end and installing the spur drive in the upper rear shaft and checking the pin to pin alignment there.
Adjust the big setscrew so they align horizontally and THEN resume band saw shaft alignment.
Well I created this post then reviewed the pix and behold thee did exactly as I said.
WELL DONE !!!
P.S. the tail stock off set dial will screw this up if not set correctly.
Adding the way tube setscrews to this after setting biggie and clamping it down(if accessible) would be a good thing so the 'twist' is not stressed.
I suggest you move the tail stock etc. to the other end and installing the spur drive in the upper rear shaft and checking the pin to pin alignment there.
Adjust the big setscrew so they align horizontally and THEN resume band saw shaft alignment.


WELL DONE !!!
P.S. the tail stock off set dial will screw this up if not set correctly.
Adding the way tube setscrews to this after setting biggie and clamping it down(if accessible) would be a good thing so the 'twist' is not stressed.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
Yep, removed the slight twist with that Allen biggie as thee said. So now I WILL adjust those two set screws. Clamping it down first was what I needed to know but didn't know to ask.
Re: Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
"Adding the way tube setscrews to this after setting biggie and clamping it down(if accessible) would be a good thing so the 'twist' is not stressed."
Maybe I don't understand this. IF this is done with the tubes raised, as in pic 3, which is easier to do, wouldn't all the 'twist' be removed because they would both be relaxed? Doing this with them clamped simply means they 'untwist" if there is any. How is the result different?
Maybe I don't understand this. IF this is done with the tubes raised, as in pic 3, which is easier to do, wouldn't all the 'twist' be removed because they would both be relaxed? Doing this with them clamped simply means they 'untwist" if there is any. How is the result different?
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35430
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
The purpose of the biggie is to remove any twist as the clamp is tightened. Loosening/tightening the small setscrews MAY introduce twist that the clamping removes. I do not think the set screws are accessible when clamped.
As long as the biggie makes things right, I do not think a small amount of twist when unclamped matters.
The effect of twist is the headstock/carriage will rotate as they move from end to end. That rotation is shown in your first pix. If there is twist, all hope of getting an aux table to align at both ends disappears.
BTW if the tailstock is not square to the waytubes(end casting skew) all already stated becomes moot. Another way of correcting the alignment in your first pix is to skew the end casting on the bench tubes.
Twist/square/. . . It ALL matters.
The Offset spt mounting tubes accommodate a bunch of funky things.
As long as the biggie makes things right, I do not think a small amount of twist when unclamped matters.
The effect of twist is the headstock/carriage will rotate as they move from end to end. That rotation is shown in your first pix. If there is twist, all hope of getting an aux table to align at both ends disappears.
BTW if the tailstock is not square to the waytubes(end casting skew) all already stated becomes moot. Another way of correcting the alignment in your first pix is to skew the end casting on the bench tubes.

Twist/square/. . . It ALL matters.

The Offset spt mounting tubes accommodate a bunch of funky things.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
Bandsaw Alignment
Is this discussion really about bandsaw alignment. Absolutely nothing on the bandsaw was mentioned.
Is this discussion really about bandsaw alignment. Absolutely nothing on the bandsaw was mentioned.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
If you don't have eccentric tubes for your bandsaw I recommend getting them.
Ed from Rhode Island
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35430
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
Actually the discussion advanced to any spt alignment.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
I find the need to perform "spindle alignment" arises much less frequently ever since a got the double tilt.
I wish I now had the opportunity to check all my spt that first time after doing the double tilt. I believe getting rid of the tilt lock made a big difference is alignments.
I wish I now had the opportunity to check all my spt that first time after doing the double tilt. I believe getting rid of the tilt lock made a big difference is alignments.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: Bandsaw Alignment recommendations
I find the same thing with Double Tilt. I also find that offset mounting tubes are no longer needed as there is no horizontal error to correct for with the Double Tilt. (Upper SPT drive only, of course. One must still match for the eccentric.) I like this aspect, the old-school straight mounting tubes for SPTs are much better fits to the bores involved.dusty wrote: ↑Sun Mar 16, 2025 1:16 pm I find the need to perform "spindle alignment" arises much less frequently ever since a got the double tilt.
I wish I now had the opportunity to check all my spt that first time after doing the double tilt. I believe getting rid of the tilt lock made a big difference is alignments.
- David