Gallery of Restorations

[Matanuska]

Perfect - thanks for the link!

[chapmanruss]

Matanuska,

You asked,

Have you found a good paint for the red metal saw table inserts?

I haven't done any repainting to the Red Table Inserts but Powder Coating should stand up to wear better than paint. I have seen Table Inserts with two different finishes as shown below.

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Saw - Sanding Disk Inserts.jpg (332.65 KiB) Viewed 7312 times

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I do have a set of Table Inserts, as seen below, that will never need repainting.

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10.jpg (148.78 KiB) Viewed 7314 times

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They are made of the same plastic as the Safety Kit items. These Table Inserts came with the Crafter's Station.

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Crafters Station 05-05-98.jpg (233.02 KiB) Viewed 7314 times

[Matanuska]

Russ,

I haven't done any repainting to the Red Table Inserts but Powder Coating should stand up to wear better than paint. I have seen Table Inserts with two different finishes as shown below.

My inserts were originally the darker red but the repaint that didn’t last is closer to the brighter one. I’ll have to look into the powder coating option. Plastic inserts would be a nice alternative.

[chapmanruss]

Matanuska,

You said,

Plastic inserts would be a nice alternative.

I agree and they would be kinder to saw blades when an oops occurs.

The Inserts I showed are all Saw Blade inserts. For the Crafter's Station neither the "Headstock" or "Carriage" it has are moveable. It does not have a movable Quill/Spindle assembly either. These Inserts allow for some different positions in the Table Insert Hole for the Saw Blade to come through depending on the Arbor used.

John,

Sorry, we are getting a bit off topic.

[jpdalton]

1948 Model 10E - Serial Number E-8461

I’ve seen an unusually high number of “free to a good home” offers in my neck of the woods recently, and this is one of those. It was all disassembled in the owner’s garage, which made for easy transport, but there was a lot of work needed to get this one in usable condition.

Original bench legs were fully rotted out on one end, so those were replaced. There were no casters on the original, so I added the caster assembly and new rubber wheels. Belts and power cord of course needed an upgrade. The original plywood extension table was in really rough shape, but I managed to reglue it where it was delaminating, sand it down relatively smooth, and seal it up like I did with the bench planking after sanding that down too.

I really didn’t want to make this a full repainting job, but that required a LOT of work on the steel castings to remove some pretty extensive rusting. So it’s definitely got a patina! But the motor, speed changer, and headstock innards are all working fine after a thorough cleaning, so this will be a good machine for the next owner…
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Here’s some of what I had to work with to start…

EDIT: the scariest find with this one was a modern 8” saw blade with standard 5/8” hole, mounted on the original 1/2” 10E arbor! Holy eccentric saw blade, Batman!!
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IMG_6037.jpeg (341.97 KiB) Viewed 1062 times

[JPG]

NIce job!!!!





Now about the speed changer crank location. OEM is nice but, relocation is better.

[Jd1a]

Looks good.

[chapmanruss]

Very nice John. I do like the cast iron parts being able to be restored without painting. Defiantly more original than the many I have painted to make them look pretty.

I see you added the Shopsmith Logo to the Bench End. Nice touch as some Bench Ends had that originally.

You could change the attachment of the Screw Assembly on the Speed Changer to be away from the Headstock as was done on later units to eliminate the interference issue with the Headstock Way Tube Lock. Just a kindness for the next owner.

I add the next observation not to nit-pick what John has done but to help others understand why mounting the Model 10's to a base a certain way is important.

I did notice the extra overhang of the Way Tubes past the Headrest. Was that caused by the original locations of the Base and Headrest mountings on the bench? Normally the Base would be at the edge of the Bench as shown on Model 10E 4708 below. For the greatest Lathe (and other functions) capacity in length there should only be enough of the Way Tubes out past the Arm of the Base assembly end and Tie Bar end for the Tailstock to mount on at either end of the tool.

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10E 4708.jpg (108.41 KiB) Viewed 1026 times

[jpdalton]

Defiantly more original than the many I have painted to make them look pretty.

“Defiantly more original…” - I like that!! I think it has a catchy corporate name in there…

Defiantly Original Restorations
Established 2025

I see you added the Shopsmith Logo to the Bench End. Nice touch as some Bench Ends had that originally.

The originals on this system were just such bench ends. First time I’d seen that original sticker in the wild. But sadly the rot was too bad to salvage them…

I did notice the extra overhang of the Way Tubes past the Headrest. Was that caused by the original locations of the Base and Headrest mountings on the bench?

Positioning was based partly on the original decking length, and partly based on adjustments I had to make to accommodate the new bench legs I added to this system, that surprisingly had a different hole pattern than the original set!

[chapmanruss]

I have had a lot of the Metal Bench ends for my restorations, but I don't recall there being a different hole pattern on the top for attaching the Bench Boards. Some have had some extra holes drilled into them by previous owners for some, unknown to me, reasons. The only difference I know of is early Metal Bench Ends did not have the mounting holes for the Retractable Casters. If you can post pictures of the Bench Ends, I would appreciate seeing the differences. I did have one Metal Bench Ends set that was different than the rest, but it was a non-Magna set made by someone patterned after the OEM set. It used a heavier gauge metal and was about an inch taller.

In the picture below you can see the common pattern for the Carriage Bolts to attach the Bench Boards to the Metal Bench Ends. This one is easier to see with the cut-off Base of this 10E. Normally the Base has a centered bolt hole at the end (see second picture below for the bolt hole position) that goes through a hole in the Metal Bench End. This was true for both the larger Base and the later smaller Base. There is bolt holes in the top of the Metal Bench Ends for the Headrest to attach through. When the smaller Base along with the two Bolt Headrest came out the Bench Boards recommended length went from 60" to 57".

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13153.jpg (432.71 KiB) Viewed 765 times

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A normal Base can be seen on the Model 10E below. It also has the four Bolt Headrest.

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1077 on Wood Bench.jpg (169.94 KiB) Viewed 765 times

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The smaller Base with the two Bolt Headrest on a Model 10ER is below.

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R64381.jpg (90.69 KiB) Viewed 764 times

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The Model 10's above are restorations I have done

Below is an early set of Metal Bench Ends. The one on top has a couple of extra holes that have been drilled into it in line with the Headrest holes. The one on the bottom, half covered, has only the original holes. This early set does not have the Retractable Caster Mounting Holes but did come with the SS Logo Decals.

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Model 10 bench ends - early ends.jpg (247.82 KiB) Viewed 765 times

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The attached PDF below is the instructions for the later 57" long Bench. The earlier instructions specified 60" long 2 x 8 boards.

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Shopsmith Bench Ends 07-52.pdf

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I have included a lot of information and the pictures for others who may wonder about these things.