Parts Question
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GrizzlyLawyer
- Bronze Member
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- Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2025 7:47 pm
Parts Question
I've got a 10ER (1950 vintage) that has all the parts, except for the screw that keeps the saw guard on. I figured "how hard can it be to replace a screw?" I've learned how hard. I can't figure out what size it takes. It seems like 1/4", but neither coarse nor fine threads fit. Any suggestions? I'd rather not tap the hole for a new screw.
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chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4207
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Parts Question
GrizzlyLawyer,
It's not hard to replace the screw that holds the Upper Saw Blade Guard to the Splitter as shown below. I have done that. The screw is a standard Round Head Machine Screw 1/4" - 20 x 3/4". The problem you are having may be bad threads in the Guard. Re-tapping them may solve the problem but be careful since the Guard is cast aluminum. When installing the screw put it in the threaded side first. This helps lock the screw in place without binding the Splitter between the two sides of the Guard. The screw is simply a pivot point. The Splitter is attached to the Table using the same size but shorter Round Head Machine Screw 1/4" - 20 x 1/2" and a lock washer.
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Since we are talking about the Upper Saw Blade Guard for the Model 10's the use of a Lower Guard was uncommon. The actual Lower Guard made for the Model 10's is shown below. There are not many around since this was an optional accessory most of the around 150,000 Model 10 owners opted not to get.
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The Lower Guard has a square dust chute hole that is not very useful for attaching a Dust Collector.
One of the Mark 5 Saw Blade Guard sets (parts numbers 505627 - upper & 505628 - lower) works well on the Model 10E and 10ER tools. The Lower Guard is shown mounted to my Model 10ER below. It clamps onto the Quill the same as it does on a Mark 5. If used on an early Model 10E with the clamp on Gauge Collar the Collar needs to be spaced back from the edge of the Quill to give enough space for the Lower Guard to attach. Notice how the Saw Blade is mounted on the Arbor with a Washer first instead of the Spacer. The Lower Guard can be use without the Upper Guard when using the Model 10's original Upper Saw Blade Guard. Use of this Lower Guard gives you a 2-1/2" Saw Dust Port to attach a Dust Collection Hose to.
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The Upper Guard is seen in the picture below attached to the Lower Guard. A nice feature when using the Upper Guard is once it is set in line with the Saw Blade the Guard set (upper and lower) can be removed from the Quill and reattached again with the Splitter staying in line with the Saw Blade.
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Yes, the Saw Blade in the picture above is mounted backwards but only to show the Shopsmith label.
It's not hard to replace the screw that holds the Upper Saw Blade Guard to the Splitter as shown below. I have done that. The screw is a standard Round Head Machine Screw 1/4" - 20 x 3/4". The problem you are having may be bad threads in the Guard. Re-tapping them may solve the problem but be careful since the Guard is cast aluminum. When installing the screw put it in the threaded side first. This helps lock the screw in place without binding the Splitter between the two sides of the Guard. The screw is simply a pivot point. The Splitter is attached to the Table using the same size but shorter Round Head Machine Screw 1/4" - 20 x 1/2" and a lock washer.
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- C 2321 V3 Saw Guard w-splitter A 2322 V3.jpg (206.32 KiB) Viewed 143 times
Since we are talking about the Upper Saw Blade Guard for the Model 10's the use of a Lower Guard was uncommon. The actual Lower Guard made for the Model 10's is shown below. There are not many around since this was an optional accessory most of the around 150,000 Model 10 owners opted not to get.
_
- 162-1X - 12 370 R r.jpg (189.5 KiB) Viewed 143 times
The Lower Guard has a square dust chute hole that is not very useful for attaching a Dust Collector.
One of the Mark 5 Saw Blade Guard sets (parts numbers 505627 - upper & 505628 - lower) works well on the Model 10E and 10ER tools. The Lower Guard is shown mounted to my Model 10ER below. It clamps onto the Quill the same as it does on a Mark 5. If used on an early Model 10E with the clamp on Gauge Collar the Collar needs to be spaced back from the edge of the Quill to give enough space for the Lower Guard to attach. Notice how the Saw Blade is mounted on the Arbor with a Washer first instead of the Spacer. The Lower Guard can be use without the Upper Guard when using the Model 10's original Upper Saw Blade Guard. Use of this Lower Guard gives you a 2-1/2" Saw Dust Port to attach a Dust Collection Hose to.
_
- 505628-10ER.jpg (98.62 KiB) Viewed 143 times
The Upper Guard is seen in the picture below attached to the Lower Guard. A nice feature when using the Upper Guard is once it is set in line with the Saw Blade the Guard set (upper and lower) can be removed from the Quill and reattached again with the Splitter staying in line with the Saw Blade.
_
- 505627-505628r.jpg (61.58 KiB) Viewed 143 times
Yes, the Saw Blade in the picture above is mounted backwards but only to show the Shopsmith label.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
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GrizzlyLawyer
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2025 7:47 pm
Re: Parts Question
You may have misunderstood me, or I may be misunderstanding you.
It's not the screw that holds the guard onto the bracket that I'm having trouble with; it's the screw that holds the bracket onto the saw table. It's very possible that it's a 1/4x20 also; if so, I'll just retap the hole. I just bought a set of taps and dies, and I've been wanting to use them (but not wanting to mess up something that's supposed to be another size.) 1/4x20 didn't fit, and 1/4x28 didn't fit, so I was wondering if it was something really strange and proprietary.
It's not the screw that holds the guard onto the bracket that I'm having trouble with; it's the screw that holds the bracket onto the saw table. It's very possible that it's a 1/4x20 also; if so, I'll just retap the hole. I just bought a set of taps and dies, and I've been wanting to use them (but not wanting to mess up something that's supposed to be another size.) 1/4x20 didn't fit, and 1/4x28 didn't fit, so I was wondering if it was something really strange and proprietary.
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chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4207
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Parts Question
GrizzlyLawyer,
I did misunderstand you, but I did include the screw size for what you were really asking.
I did misunderstand you, but I did include the screw size for what you were really asking.
Again, do be careful re-tapping the hole in the table as it is Aluminum too. Having the Tap line up with the original threads will clean them up and cause less weaking of the threads also.The Splitter is attached to the Table using the same size but shorter Round Head Machine Screw 1/4" - 20 x 1/2" and a lock washer.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
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GrizzlyLawyer
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2025 7:47 pm
Re: Parts Question
You did say that, didn't you?chapmanruss wrote: ↑Mon Jun 30, 2025 1:20 pm GrizzlyLawyer,
I did misunderstand you, but I did include the screw size for what you were really asking.
Again, do be careful re-tapping the hole in the table as it is Aluminum too. Having the Tap line up with the original threads will clean them up and cause less weaking of the threads also.The Splitter is attached to the Table using the same size but shorter Round Head Machine Screw 1/4" - 20 x 1/2" and a lock washer.
Thanks for the help. For reasons too long to go into, I won't have a chance to try it until Wednesday or Thursday.