Mark V switch wiring - is mine right, and can someone show the modern single-pole version?

[Maurice]

Thanks everyone, appreciate all the replies.

I'll just put it back exactly as it was - I've got clear photos from before, and it turned on previously. Simple and safe. My dad's an old sparky (82 now), so I might pick his brains next time he's over if I want to get fancy with it down the track.

Handy timing on this though: I happened to have the motor open last night to clean it out and change the bearings (it was incredibly dusty inside!). Can't get the front sheave off yet, but I found a few tricks on here last night and I'm planning to grab some PB Blaster on the weekend to have a crack at it.

Photos attached - this could be an egyptian artifact for all it means to me, but it might mean something to someone here! It's my first time handling anything like it

[JPG]

All looks normal except the wire lead colors. I think that indicates it was designed intentionally for 50 Hz/non-USA destination.

Do not be concerned re the start capacitor voltage rating - the start circuit is 1/2 the run voltage when 230 v.



I hope the black thingie in the idler shaft hole on the vent plate does not cover the entire perforated area of the plate. That would kill the ventilation (what little there is normally). It would also decrease the rated duty cycle which is low to begin with.

[Maurice]

Haha well spotted JPG - it absoutely would have done that. I've never run this properly, only turned it on when I bought it. But I had removed that little 'filter' a few days ago thinking the same thing.

I'm actually thinking of doing the Bill Mayo louvered vent idea. He never posted a picture, but has said a few times he did it on the rear of the motor pan. His was square, I figured this would look a bit neater.

[RFGuy]

All looks normal except the wire lead colors. I think that indicates it was designed intentionally for 50 Hz/non-USA destination.

Do not be concerned re the start capacitor voltage rating - the start circuit is 1/2 the run voltage when 230 v.



I hope the black thingie in the idler shaft hole on the vent plate does not cover the entire perforated area of the plate. That would kill the ventilation (what little there is normally). It would also decrease the rated duty cycle which is low to begin with.

JPG,

Did you see the motor label Maurice posted up above. It actually states 50Hz on it and 230V. Never seen that before on a Shopsmith motor so it is definitely a non-US destination Shopsmith including its motor. Cool.

[JPG]

What I find interesting is the use of white and BLUE on the US destined motor leads. Not the first choice for hot wiring.

Also re motor label is the 1/2 hour duty cycle rating - sorta like a power pro at 10k rpm.

[chapmanruss]

Noting that the RPM for the motor is 2850 I would be interested in knowing what speed the Quill's Spindle turns thru the speed range. US motors run at 3450 RPM. Are there size differences in other parts to accommodate this?

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Motor 1 1-8 HP AO Smith c.jpg (138.31 KiB) Viewed 228 times

[JPG]

Didn't we just have that discussion? There was a 50 Hz speed / letter chart and acknowledgment of the need for it.viewtopic.php?p=325249#p325249

It would be helpful to Maurice et. al. to have a pdf of that 50Hz chart. hint hint Page 52B

[chapmanruss]

Sorry JPG, I guess that didn't stick in my memory.

[JPG]

No need to be "sorry".