Stuck Arbor on a New Acquisition

[RevCorrigan]

By a beautiful turn of events I learned about the shopsmith and rescued a 10er in the space of three days last week. It is a little rusty, but with a few hours cleaning and a new belt it is in working order now.

My first use case is as a lathe, but I have a bit of wobble due to a 5/8 arbor attached to the spindle that I just cannot get off. I found it configured as a table saw. The set screw is stripped out. It's too loose to be perfectly stable, but too tight to pry off.

My questions are:
1. If I drill out the set screw, what is the risk to the spindle (is it threaded or notched etc)?
2. Is there a convenient way to lock the spindle so as to turn the arbor?

Thanks, and any other tips appreciated!

[HopefulSSer]

Welcome, and congrats on your acquisition!

The spindle has a tapered flat ground on it which gets deeper in the direction towards the headstock. That way, should the screw become loose, things don't fly off the spindle (this is not my picture)


I'd suggest trying to drill out the set screw with a left-handed twist drill. You might find that it grabs the screw enough to spin it out. Just don't drill into the spindle, and don't break the drill!

Another way to remove stuck fasteners is to weld another fastener onto it. Although if the set screw is down in the hole too deep that might be difficult. But the heat from welding almost always breaks free frozen fasteners, plus gives you something to grab.

Or, and I hesitate to suggest this because I don't feel comfortable trying it without seeing what you've got, is to bang the next sized Allen key into it. 5/32 is just shy of 4mm, so maybe you could drive in a 4mm and grab it enough to undo it. Don't break the Allen key!

[chapmanruss]

RevCorrigan,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum.

First do NOT turn the Arbor as the protruding end of the Set Screw inside the Arbor will damage the Spindle.

As HopefulSSer has suggested it does sound like the Set Screw is loose enough for the Arbor to no longer be tight but not retracted enough to clear the Reverse Tapered Flat of the Quill's Spindle.

You could try using a Screw Extractor and Left-Hand Drill Bits. Some penetrating oil may help too.

Completely Drilling out the Set Screw would be my second option and I have had to do this. Do be careful as you get further into the Set Screw not to drill into the Spindle underneath it. If the Arbor is an original Model 10E/10ER one, it will have a 1/8" Allen Wrench size 1/4" set Screw. If it is a later Mark 5/V Arbor that Set Screw will use a 5/32" Allen Wrench for a 5/16" Set Screw. Either one is compatible to your Model 10ER. I mention all this as you have the choice of trying to drill out just the Set Screw to save the Arbor or drilling larger removing the thread in the Arbor Base itself. The goal here is to remove the Arbor without damaging the Quill's Spindle. Arbors are easy to replace as you can even buy a brand new one, Molder/Dado Arbor P/N 505506, from Shopsmith USA found right here on this website. Spindles are not as easily replaced and are no longer made for the Model 10's.

I would NOT recommend trying HopefulSSer's last suggestion when he said,

Or, and I hesitate to suggest this because I don't feel comfortable trying it without seeing what you've got, is to bang the next sized Allen key into it. 5/32 is just shy of 4mm, so maybe you could drive in a 4mm and grab it enough to undo it. Don't break the Allen key!

The reason to not try to "bang" the next size Allen Wrench is it could damage the Spindle bending it slightly.

[HopefulSSer]

I would NOT recommend trying HopefulSSer's last suggestion when he said,

Or, and I hesitate to suggest this because I don't feel comfortable trying it without seeing what you've got, is to bang the next sized Allen key into it. 5/32 is just shy of 4mm, so maybe you could drive in a 4mm and grab it enough to undo it. Don't break the Allen key!

The reason to not try to "bang" the next size Allen Wrench is it could damage the Spindle bending it slightly.

Perhaps "bang" was too strong a word. "Tap".... And thanks for the info that some were 1/4". Learned something new today!

[RevCorrigan]

I'd suggest trying to drill out the set screw with a left-handed twist drill. You might find that it grabs the screw enough to spin it out. Just don't drill into the spindle, and don't break the drill!

Another way to remove stuck fasteners is to weld another fastener onto it. Although if the set screw is down in the hole too deep that might be difficult. But the heat from welding almost always breaks free frozen fasteners, plus gives you something to grab.

Thanks HopefulSSer and all,
Your welding suggestion gave me another idea, I think I'll try to get the whole thing loose by heating it with a torch. If that doesn't work then maybe some freeze off and the left hand bit. I'll let you know how it goes!