Tips on finishing oak

bondoboat · Post by **bondoboat** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 6:41 am

Hi all,
I completed 2 oak hutches I have been working on and am now down to applying finish. I am looking for tips on the complete finishing process. Filling minor flaws before or after staining, sanding, cleaning, applying stain and finish, brands.....you name it. Thanks.....BB

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:17 am

Depending on what you want the piece to look like and feel like. If you want the grain and pores of the oak to remain visible, sand to 220, wipe down with paint thinner, stain (if needed) and apply the finish of your choice.

If you want a very smooth finish, after final sanding with 220, and applying the stain of choice, apply three good coats of water white lac. Allow this to dry overnight. Then cut back the finish using a scraper or razor blades. In your case, with large pieces, I'd use a well sharpened scraper. You will be scraping off most of the finish, leaving only what's in the grain and pores of the oak. This takes practice to perfect but it's very effective. Then sand again with 220 and work down to steel wool 0000. Repeat these steps until you reach the fill level you're aiming for. Finish this off with the 0000 steel wool and pumice stone and wipe off the residue with a damp cloth. Caution: this is a time consuming process, but one that will result in a beautiful finish.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 2:26 pm

Hi, BB! I am becoming convinced there are as many methods of finishing oak as there are finishers. Some put on a darker coloring to penetrate into the pores so they will stand out later, some use stains, some use dyes, some use various finish coatings only.

My advice is to research as much of the available information you can, arrive at a method you want (and a color/shade), then go with it. Also it is a good idea to select some extra oak boards with similar color and grain - then apply the finish of your choice. REMEMBER TO mark the boards so you know which finish is which.

Bob Flexner and Michael Dresdner are two of the guys favored by woodworking magazines. Here is a reference to the rubbing out stage by Dresdner: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/ME2/d ... DD8CACD18F

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 11:55 am

A number of years ago I tried an interesting finish method I read about somewhere. I mixed 1/2 Tung oil (you could use boil linseed oil) and Poly.
Then starting with 120 wet dry paper I rubbed the finish in. The slurry that came from sanding it with sandpaper got rubbed into the pores and since it was nothing more that the finish and wood dust it was perfect match with the rest of the wood.
The grain got slightly darker which highlighted it. I then did the same thing with 180, 220 and final coat of 320 allowing 24 hours between finishes.

It was a hope chest for my daugther and since I did it, it has served as a hope chest, catch all, coffee table, grand kids gym set, you name it but the finish is untouched and a light coat of lemon oil restores the luster that was there when I finished the project.

I now use this method on most open grain woods, and things I want a hard enduring finish on.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:03 pm

Now, I like that method, ED. I am going to give it a try on 2 QSWO projects I'm getting ready to start. QSWO does present a tighter grain than FS or RS red oak, though.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:15 pm

Excellent post, Ed!:D This seems like a very good method!

Ed's post brings me to a question - directed to anyone wishing to answer.

Isn't it best to sand the wood prior to starting the finish with 120 or 150 grit as Ed did?

I have read (or maybe inferred) that some folks are using 220 grit prior to applying a stain. I think I've read that 220 sanding of wood will not allow stain penetration as well as a larger grit.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:29 pm

I think your correct on that Chuck. The 220 makes it to smooth for the stain to penetrate like it should. Also I think it was Drew that mention you should knot leave a lot of time between sanding and finishing part. FORGET the reason why though.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:57 pm

I think Chuck is right. I think much above 180 almost burnishes the wood preventing much peneration or finish.

However using the wet dry and finish together as I did created a slurry that was rubbed or forced into the open grain and built up the finish, and each sanding with a higher grit resulted in a more smooth or glass like finish. When I say glass don't mistake my terms the finish I was after was a Satin finish but I wanted the grain to be highlighted but totally filled and it was.

Besides finishing this way was fun, I just sat there rubbing the beautiful wood watching the grain of the wood pop out giving a feeling of depth. It kind of let me throw my mind in neutral and imagine being in a Old World Woodworking Shop busy about my work. In fact I usually really hate finishing so when I call it fun you know how easy and rewarding is was.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 3:56 pm

beeg wrote:...I think it was Drew that mentioned you should knot leave a lot of time between sanding and finishing part. FORGET the reason why though.

The reason is oxidation! Called case hardening. (you might call it: evaporation of the surface moisture causing the new surface fibers to shrink and harden.)

The same is true of glue joints. The surfaces to be glued should be machined less than 24 hours before gluing.

Reference is made to the "Wood Handbook". Chapter 15 (finishing) page 6 for oxidation and Chapter nine page 16 for gluing. http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgt ... gtr113.htm

This is a wonderful reference we ALL sometimes forget.

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 4:31 pm

For those who might be interested, here is a link to one of my favorite on-line woodworking sites. Charles Neil is an expert finisher and has some great videos on the subject.

http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/categ ... pe=1&cat=3