Jointer Use
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Jointer Use
Hi all,
I have a 1963 goldie with jointer, belt sander and jigsaw. I have built a few pieces of furniture since getting it this winter. I haven't used the jointer once, nor do I see much need for it in the future. Am I missing something here or should I be looking to swap it for something that I will use? Being a goldie I would hate to part with it and then want it back but I don't really see me using it. How much do you guys use your jointer and on what kind of projects?
BB
I have a 1963 goldie with jointer, belt sander and jigsaw. I have built a few pieces of furniture since getting it this winter. I haven't used the jointer once, nor do I see much need for it in the future. Am I missing something here or should I be looking to swap it for something that I will use? Being a goldie I would hate to part with it and then want it back but I don't really see me using it. How much do you guys use your jointer and on what kind of projects?
BB
I use my jointer almost every time I use the table saw. If you ever start with rough stock about the only way you can get it square and true is to joint a face and edge and then plane and rip. Even with high quality saw blades a well tuned jointer will give you a cleaner edge that is true and square.
I usually joint an edge and then rip to rough width. On a wide board, you will hardly find one that does not have some cup in it. When you rip a cupped board the edge will not be quite square. I then joint a face to get it really flat and then with the flat side against the jointer fence, I joint an edge. Now I have 1 true face and edge. I can now rip and plane to finished size.
This method has improved the quality of my work tremendously and actually reduced the total time required for a project because I don't have to deal with off square stock.
I usually joint an edge and then rip to rough width. On a wide board, you will hardly find one that does not have some cup in it. When you rip a cupped board the edge will not be quite square. I then joint a face to get it really flat and then with the flat side against the jointer fence, I joint an edge. Now I have 1 true face and edge. I can now rip and plane to finished size.
This method has improved the quality of my work tremendously and actually reduced the total time required for a project because I don't have to deal with off square stock.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Since you are building furniture that you are pleased with you must be doing a lot of things right. However, I can not help but believe that you would be a lot more pleased if you incorporated a well tuned jointer into your building process.bondoboat wrote:Hi all,
I have a 1963 goldie with jointer, belt sander and jigsaw. I have built a few pieces of furniture since getting it this winter. I haven't used the jointer once, nor do I see much need for it in the future. Am I missing something here or should I be looking to swap it for something that I will use? Being a goldie I would hate to part with it and then want it back but I don't really see me using it. How much do you guys use your jointer and on what kind of projects?
BB
tdubnik has just posted an excellent tutorial on using a jointer to prep raw materials for use. I won't attempt to add anything to that tutorial except to encourage you to try this on your next two or three projects. After doing so, I feel certain that you will not part with your jointer.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Twenty six years ago I purchased my MKV with both Jointer and Bandsaw. These two SPT's complement the Shopsmith so well that I can't imagine being without this trio.
Having said that, the Dust Collector and Planer, in my opinion are next in importance. Depending on the type of woodworking one gets into, the Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Scroll Saw, and special accessories can be added.
Having said that, the Dust Collector and Planer, in my opinion are next in importance. Depending on the type of woodworking one gets into, the Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Scroll Saw, and special accessories can be added.
- hudsonmiller
- Gold Member
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2008 12:27 pm
- Location: Denver, Colorado
It's a keeper
If you ever consider putting a chamfer on the edge, using raw or resawn stock, gluing up your own stock etc. it's essentially a must have. Consider this - you are working a project and screw up your stock - all you have left is scrap pieces. Use your jointer to get a good edge on the scrap and you can glue up your scrap to make a large piece again. Then use the jointer to plane down the face flat, flip it over and you're off and running again.
I have run into the outfeed table of the jointer being short - and am considering options to resolve this problem, but I'd definately keep this tool in your stock.
I have run into the outfeed table of the jointer being short - and am considering options to resolve this problem, but I'd definately keep this tool in your stock.
Just remember - It's all tool setup.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
All these benefits do not happen automatically. Just as with the saw, ALIGNMENT is all important and a necessary first step. The fence 90* stop MUST be correct! The blades MUST align with outfeed table.
Also sharpness of the blades is very important.
I realize all this is obvious to most of us, but not to a 'novice',
Also sharpness of the blades is very important.
I realize all this is obvious to most of us, but not to a 'novice',
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
rookie jointer user
I am in no way anything but a rookie on this tool. But I am learning and becomming a believer. I am working in a Mission style bed, and started from all rough cut lumber. ( Cost was about 1/3 retail on S4S). It was probably "too rough", but it provided opportunity to learn the tool and the process of squaring up stock. It took me several trys to get the results I wanted, but I don't think I could have done it without the jointer.
Four things that I learnedn for my situation:
1: The jointer fence is quick and easy to square up and get two perpendicular faces.
2. Setting the blades is tedious, but not as intimidating as I feared. Once set correctly, the jointer produces good results. ( I WAS INTIMIDATED BY THE BLADE CHANGE AND SET UP):eek:
3: Take your time, don't hurry the cuts.
4. Technique is critical, I should have practiced with some scrap before I started. Hand position and pressure on th4e outfeed table were the key to me getting good results.
My suggestion is don't get rid of the jointer until you have spent some time with it.
Four things that I learnedn for my situation:
1: The jointer fence is quick and easy to square up and get two perpendicular faces.
2. Setting the blades is tedious, but not as intimidating as I feared. Once set correctly, the jointer produces good results. ( I WAS INTIMIDATED BY THE BLADE CHANGE AND SET UP):eek:
3: Take your time, don't hurry the cuts.
4. Technique is critical, I should have practiced with some scrap before I started. Hand position and pressure on th4e outfeed table were the key to me getting good results.
My suggestion is don't get rid of the jointer until you have spent some time with it.
Saw dust heals many wounds. RLTW
Dave
Dave
I use my Planer a lot but not so much the jointer - am I missing something here? I usually run the board thru the planer with the cup down to remove the arch on top and then after that's flat, turn it over and plan to thickness. After that, I rip one edge and then rip to width. Would I be better served sticking the jointer in here somewhere?
SS MV 520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, belt sander, mortise unit, biscut jointer, speed reducer, tool rest upgrade, sliding cross cut table, DC3300
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Right after Each RIP!:)markap wrote:I use my Planer a lot but not so much the jointer - am I missing something here? I usually run the board thru the planer with the cup down to remove the arch on top and then after that's flat, turn it over and plan to thickness. After that, I rip one edge and then rip to width. Would I be better served sticking the jointer in here somewhere?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange