Wood Screws

[charlese]

I would like feedback on what wood screws do you commonly use?
Where do you get them?
And do you always predrill?
If so what bit do you use?
Which head do you like best? Slotted, phillips, square, torx, something else.

Answers:
--For use with wood, I use almost only FHWS. Sometimes, for a special use a RHWS or two. I have a selection of sizes and lengths.
For other uses like installing OSB on walls, I used self tapping screws.
Also, I should mention I have a collection of assorted Sheet Metal Screws of various sizes and heads, that rivals most hardware stores. These are seldom used, but always saved.

--I buy all needed FHWS from Lowe's. I don't know what country they are made in, but really don't care as long as sizes and lengths are reasonable true. I can buy phillip's heads and slotted heads. There is no need for me to buy other than FHWS.

-- Yes, I always pre-drill when using Wood Screws!!!!! Using two or three sizes of bits.

-- I use the sizes of bits recommended for the gauge of screw. This includes pilot hole, shank hole and head hole (if desired)

-- I have no preference of head/bit configuration. I have not yet run into a FHWS with a torx head, and haven't used any with a square bit head. Most of the screws I use have phillips heads, but some have slotted heads. I really kinda prefer slotted heads on the smaller #4 brass screws. They look prettier IMHO when lined up in a continuous (piano) hinge. In order to install them, after drilling holes, I use a #4 steel screw to set the threads in the hole, then follow up by installing the brass screws.

I have read and heard many disparaging words over slotted head screws. IMHO the biggest single issue here is inadequate shaping of the bladed screwdriver. These are not knives and should have flattened tips that are square with the shaft. The width of the blade should also equal the width of the screw. Bladed screwdrivers wear out and develop rounded and chiped tips. They should be re-ground (not re-sharpened).

EDIT: Forgot to mention that a dab of beeswax on a screw sure helps with installation.

[JPG]

I don't know that individuals can purchase from these folks but it does indicate that "wood screws" are still available.

http://www.hillmangroup.com/powerpro.htm

This is the same site I was looking at. If you will look at the page you will see ALL the screws are narrow shank with extended threads(like drywall screws). These are NOT the 'historical' kind of wood screws.
Also notice the head - torx!

[Gene Howe]

A distinct advantage of a wood screw or pocket screw over a dry wall screw is the absence of threads just below the head of the wood screw. The full shank threads of the dry wall type are said to force the two pieces to be joined, apart. My joints are always glued and clamped before using a DWS. That's prolly the reason I've never experienced that separation.

My reason for using DWS is simple .... laziness. They are readily available in several lengths and, at least two thread spacings. I buy them by the 1000s, boxed. My supply ranges from 3/4" to 3". They are useful for so many tasks around the ranch that I feel I have to have a good supply at the ready. So, I use some of them for woodworking, too.

[Ed in Tampa]

Answers:
--I buy all needed FHWS from Lowe's. I don't know what country they are made in, but really don't care as long as sizes and lengths are reasonable true. I can buy phillip's heads and slotted heads. There is no need for me to buy other than FHWS.

-- Yes, I always pre-drill when using Wood Screws!!!!! Using two or three sizes of bits.

-- I use the sizes of bits recommended for the gauge of screw. This includes pilot hole, shank hole and head hole (if desired)


EDIT: Forgot to mention that a dab of beeswax on a screw sure helps with installation.

Chuck
My Lowes only sell DryWall screws or plated screws. The plated screws are cheaply done and the plating flakes off. Also they usually are inferior metal and easily stripped or snap when driving.

What I'm looking for is honest non plated wood screws that are made for one purpose holding wood to wood. I'm not sure but I think I want cut threads instead of cast threads. So the shoulder is actually equal to or slightly bigger than the thead portion. These screws require three drilling operations or a special 3 section drill bit. First the counter sink then the shoulder cut then the actual bore for the threaded portion.

Someone said Dry Wall screws were used because of lazyness and I agree but about the time your hanging a cabinet and Dry Wall screw snaps or the wood splits you will wish you weren't so lazy.

My second question is has anyone found a good drill bit that cuts both the counter sink the shoulder cut and thread cut or do you use three drills?

Also someone said Dry Wall screws don't have a smooth shoulder. You can buy Dry Wall screws that are threaded the ful length and those that have a smooth shoulder. However on Dry Wall screws with smooth shoulder the shoulder portion is usually a slightly smaller diameter than the threaded portion (which makes sense since the screw is designed to be self tapping thus the difference in thread diameter and shoulder gives room for the shoulder to past). This slight difference does allow a very very slight movement in the wood. I know it is small but if you join two pieces together this movement is enough to produce a slightly proud fit or a slight recess. Yes glue will stop all movement but I use screws only for strenght or pieces where the wood must be separated from time to time.

My thanks to everyone for your suggesttions and ideas. I'm still looking for more info.

[JPG]

ED: IMHO unplated wood screws hold better than plated ones(They are sometimes harder to drive also). They also bend rather than break! The shoulder IS important(that is why they have been there all this time). There existence was NOT an economy move(Less threads to cut). The shoulder holds the position as you have pointed out. It is intended to accommodate the piece being 'held'. The threads in this area only interfere with fastening. The shank drill should drill all the way through the held piece.

Somebody(ies) have decided none of this is important to the 'common masses(US)'. NOBODY builds FURNITURE!:D

[markap]

While we're talking screws, what size and type do you use to mount the lathe faceplate to stock? I've not run across anything I consider satisfactory yet.

[dusty]

This thread peaked my curiosity. I have not had to shop for wood screws for quit some time now. I had accumulated a rather large supply of assorted hardware that I am now slowly depleting. Today I went on a short shopping trip to the nearby ACE.

I found most every description of wood screw that I am likely to ever need; from tiny brass screws to some very large screws. I found slotted, phillips and torx.

I also found that they are no longer inexpensive. I was shocked at the price.

This means that I am going to have to shop around for someone who stocks hardware that is sold in bulk quantities. The prepackaged items are for emergency consumption only.

Incidentally, the Hillman collection that was mentioned earlier in this thread is what my local ACE handles.

[beeg]

While we're talking screws, what size and type do you use to mount the lathe faceplate to stock? I've not run across anything I consider satisfactory yet.

Have you looked at #10 self tapping sheet metal screws?

[curiousgeorge]

Here is where I get most of my screws and I do love the square drives...

http://www.mcfeelys.com/

[JPG]

Here is where I get most of my screws and I do love the square drives...

http://www.mcfeelys.com/

LOTS AND LOTS OF INTERESTING FASTENERS, BUT IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR FHWS, YOU NEED TO BE BUILDING A BOAT AND WANT BRASS SCREWS.