Wood Screws

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:39 pm

JPG40504 wrote:LOTS AND LOTS OF INTERESTING FASTENERS, BUT IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR FHWS, YOU NEED TO BE BUILDING A BOAT AND WANT BRASS SCREWS.

HUH???? Am I missing something? They have any kind of screw you may want, including FHWS and some I have never heard of.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:45 pm

markap wrote:While we're talking screws, what size and type do you use to mount the lathe faceplate to stock? I've not run across anything I consider satisfactory yet.

To mount the faceplate to a piece of wood I used the first screws I came across that were 3/4" long and a gauge and head that fit the holes in the plate.

I've only used a faceplate twice, but I didn't use screws at all to mount the workpiece to the wood block that was screwed to the faceplate. - used yellow glue to a piece of bond paper. after dry glued the workpiece to the paper. It held well and was only separated with a chisel.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:52 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:...My second question is has anyone found a good drill bit that cuts both the counter sink the shoulder cut and thread cut or do you use three drills?...

Hi Ed,
Have a look at this drill bit by Sears. I have a 3 piece set of these (three different sizes) that I was knot able to find on the web, but I did buy them at Sears. I also was gifted with a very nice Makita drill accessory set that included a set up just like the Sears one in this link. They all have done right by me. All three operations with one drill.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=counter+bore+bits&gobutton.x=11&gobutton.y=11

edit: The Makita set is just like the Sears one at this link, but the 3 piece set that I also have does not have the screw bit on the other end]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 12:22 am

curiousgeorge wrote:HUH???? Am I missing something? They have any kind of screw you may want, including FHWS and some I have never heard of.

WHERE in mcfeelys 'catalog' do you find steel unplated 'real' fhws(the kind we have been describing, not those skinney things I saw in the catalog)? Give me a page number!

easterngray · Post by **easterngray** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:20 am

JPG - In boat building you use bronze screws, not brass. Alec

markap · Post by **markap** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:44 am

beeg wrote:Have you looked at #10 self tapping sheet metal screws?

Number 10's seem a bit small for the holes and I'm getting a bit of lateral movement with large pieces. Bought some #12's yesterday that I have not tried yet. I also have a problem with the Philips head stripping and also some "hi-torque" ones from Woodcraft (sq drive) actually broke in some very hard wood - even with holes pre-drilled.

Was thinking stainless sq drive from McFeely's but not sure what size to order.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:34 am

markap wrote:Number 10's seem a bit small for the holes and I'm getting a bit of lateral movement with large pieces. Bought some #12's yesterday that I have not tried yet. I also have a problem with the Philips head stripping and also some "hi-torque" ones from Woodcraft (sq drive) actually broke in some very hard wood - even with holes pre-drilled.

Was thinking stainless sq drive from McFeely's but not sure what size to order.

Mark your describing the exact scenario I seeing all of sudden. I have used up all my old screw supply and frankly the new ones are leaving me wanting. They either snap off, strip out or split the wood even in predrill situation.

I'm convinced it is caused my two things. First I think the screw threads are forged or molded and then they are plated.

I would love to find some screws the quality of Kreg screws that don't have the particular heads made for pocket screws. But even Kreg screws I suspect are molded or forged rather than having the threads cut.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:52 am

a1gutterman wrote:Hi Ed,
Have a look at this drill bit by Sears. I have a 3 piece set of these (three different sizes) that I was knot able to find on the web, but I did buy them at Sears. I also was gifted with a very nice Makita drill accessory set that included a set up just like the Sears one in this link. They all have done right by me. All three operations with one drill.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=counter+bore+bits&gobutton.x=11&gobutton.y=11

edit: The Makita set is just like the Sears one at this link, but the 3 piece set that I also have does not have the screw bit on the other end]

Tim
I had a bunch of hand tools stolen out of my garage a few years back. Among them were some self centering bits, some drills with countersink cutters, and etc. When I was looking to replace them I stumbled upon Sears and at the time they had a kit of 109 pieces which contained 4 self centering bits, four setups like you provided the link to and tons of various drive bits (slotted, phillips, torx, square etc). I jumped on it because it was priced real close to the price of four self centering bits. What a huge mistake. However I will admit the self centering bits work excellent. The driver bits are cut ever so slightly undersize and in phillips screws with cam out of the slots. The holder for the bits that drill and counter sink and then flip to driver is ever so slightly oversize so the bit carrier slightly torgues and gets stuck in the holder. Then I have to mess around that tap the carrier out. I dropped the drill once with one of the driver extensions on it and it snapped like glass. I took it back to Sears and they stated since it is used with power tools it isn't warranteed. About the time I was ready to explode they exchanged it.

Long long story short. I'm now looking for set of self centering bits, and bits that drill pilot holes with counter sinks. And oh yes the won't be Sears

drl · Post by **drl** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:58 am

I would like to add that the stripping of heads, especially when driving phillips head screws, can be the result of a worn driver both hand driven and drill/driver driven. It takes but a few slips of the bit in the head of a screw and the bit is compromised. Chuck addressed this regarding the proper size and shape for straight bladed screwdrivers. It also applies to phillips head. Just a tip that my father showed me is to apply a dab of valve seat grinding compound to the head of the screw. It reduces the tendency to slip by a considerable amount. Also works especially well when removing screws.
Regards,
Dwight

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 12:01 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:Tim

. . . I took it back to Sears and they stated since it is used with power tools it isn't warranteed. About the time I was ready to explode they exchanged it.
. . .

If NOT power tools, WHAT were they supposed to 'work' with?

Does that apply to ALL items in the 'power tool' department??:D