Paint Glaze Finish w/ML Campbell

[mbcabinetmaker]

This thread is continued from my thread on the Kitchen Island

Jumping right in. When painting I prefer the dull or 15 sheen finish. It still has more gloss than say a satin or even semi gloss latex. I almost always use a retarder to slow the drying process down a little. Thinning with lacquer thinner actually speeds up the drying process. This I never do. I like the retarder they call Super Retarder. It is fairly new from MLC. I add one oz per gallon as opposed to 10% with conventional thinner. Now I can stir it all together in the 1 gal bucket it comes in. Spray on the first coat. Practice on scraps until you can achieve a nice wet coat with no runs and no dry spots.
Important! Do not rush the next step. Let dry throughly then sand lightly with 220 foam backed finishing pads. I use Mirka
Gold Flex Soft. http://www.mirka.com/goldflexsoft_wood? ... B75B160A0& After sanding blow off with compressed air and then wipe with a clean soft cloth. Repeat the compressed air part. Spray on the second coat. If it is to your satisfaction 2 coats are enough. You can apply a third if it is not slick enough. You would of course repeat the sanding step before applying the third coat.



Mark

[mbcabinetmaker]

The glazing that I used on the island is a Vandyke brown. Make sure you use wiping glaze as MLC makes a lot of alcohol based products. Alcohol based products should be left to high production shops with special equipment. There are several ways to apply wiping glazes. You can brush then wipe the entire surface (same process as staining) working small areas at a time, or you can as I did on the island use it to highlight the cracks and crevices. If you do the entire surface you still want to leave it heavier in the cracks and crevices. I prefer the highlight method and this is how I apply it. Take a small artist brush (about 1/2 inch) and pour a little glaze into a small container. I use yogurt cups that my wife saves. Brush around areas like the cuts of raised panels and beads on rails and styles. Brush on wipe off. Work small areas like 1 door at a time. Again practice on scraps until you can achieve consistent results. This is a matter of taste. To be continued.

Mark

[charlese]

M.B. You can type and type and type and......... on a message window. The more you type, the window scrolls as it receives more --- I've seen some messages that take up almost a whole page of the forum. I really don't know how large you can make a post, but I know it's HUGE!

The only problems I have run into in making longer posts is: they have a tendency to ramble and change subjects - also they are very difficult to spell check and edit.

Thanks for your posts and photos in the past - and here's looking forward to reading more from you!

[mbcabinetmaker]

After you have applied the glaze and it has dried,(again do not rush this process)you will need to apply a clear coat to protect the glaze. Here I use clear dull MagnaMax. Spray on one coat only No sanding. The last sanding you should have done at this point is before the last coat of tented MagnaMax. In other words spray, sand, spray,glaze and clear coat. See it is not that hard. Just practice before you jump in.

One last thing. All catalyzed finishes have a time window between when you start the process and when you must apply the final coat. I do not remember what it is but you would need to start this project and finish it in a few days.

In the next couple of days I will explain this process using General Finishes water base products. It is very similar but needs to be gone over in steps.

I will try to answer any questions.

Thanks
Mark

What do you know. This time it lets me scroll on down to continue the post but I,m finished!

[scooters]

Wow! It is great to get some tips from a real "pro".

I will be interested to hear about the "General Finishes" techniques. I used their 1-2-3 system in junior high woodshop (back in the late 60's) when I built a Heathkit ((tube)) TV and designed/built the cabinet for it. ..... brings back a lot of memories! I've not played much with their newer stuff.

[Ed in Tampa]

After you have applied the glaze and it has dried,(again do not rush this process)you will need to apply a clear coat to protect the glaze. Here I use clear dull MagnaMax. Spray on one coat only No sanding. The last sanding you should have done at this point is before the last coat of tented MagnaMax. In other words spray, sand, spray,glaze and clear coat. See it is not that hard. Just practice before you jump in.

One last thing. All catalyzed finishes have a time window between when you start the process and when you must apply the final coat. I do not remember what it is but you would need to start this project and finish it in a few days.

In the next couple of days I will explain this process using General Finishes water base products. It is very similar but needs to be gone over in steps.

I will try to answer any questions.

Thanks
Mark

What do you know. This time it lets me scroll on down to continue the post but I,m finished!

If I'm reading this right you are saying you keep catalyzed finishes which are mixed over night? I thought once the catalyzed finishes were mixed they had to shot immediately. Admittedly I have only shot catalyzed car finish and it was years ago, evidently things have definitely changed.
Thanks again for all you tips.
Oh yes one other question did you mix the tint of did manufacture? I'm a little confused when you said they could match nearly any color. Also where do you purchase you products?

[mbcabinetmaker]

Ed

MagnaMax is a pre-catalyzed finish with a 120 day shelf life. The catalyst is added when you order or pick it up and the 120 days start at that time. There is a label added with the expiration date. MLC also makes a post catalyzed finish, You add the catalyst and it has about an 8 hour window to work with. That is probably the finish you are talking about and the auto industry would use this type of finish. I am not an expert on the difference between these 2 products, but having sprayed some of each type the pre-cat is a lot more user friendly. The working time I was talking about is the maximum time you can go between the first and last coats before some type of chemical reaction occurs. I will try to find out the specifications on this subject.

I promised a post on the General Finishes and it will come in the next day or two. I am to tired tonight after spraying white finish for 12 hrs today.




Thanks
Mark

PS

I missed your question about the tinting. I have a MLC dealer located in one of my local hardwood/plywood/hardware suppliers warehouse. They have a guy there that mixes finishes and you can take a color sample by and he will mix a finish to match. He is very knowledgeable and has been a great help to me and other cabinetmakers in the area. They stock about any thing that we need and it is also delivered by the hardwood suppliers trucks. It is available in 1,5 and 55 gallon containers.