Jointer Cutter Head

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Sat May 02, 2009 9:31 pm

eartigas wrote:I feel for us all! Since I got my SS5 in February and the "bug" with it, I have been ordering parts. I have parts in backorder since the first one.

I just got my conical disk without paper : )) and the 1/4" router arbor came yesterday, nicely Made in Taiwan.

I also got yesterday my Ebay jointer and the knives, which were on sale until a few days ago, went back to list price when all other jointer parts are now on sale. Go figure...

On the jointer, is there any easy gadget to align the knives? I saw Nick's but seems too complex for the task...

Regards

I have used a method that I saw written up somewhere. You just put a straightedge on the outfeed table and then manually rotate the jointer cutter head. The goal is to have each end of each knife just barely 'grab and drag' the straightedge, the same consistent amount of distance. Now I would have to think about how to exactly calibrate this -- it might work OK if you subscribe to the theory that the cutters should be a few thousandths proud of the outfeed table, to account for wood springback.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat May 02, 2009 10:13 pm

nuhobby wrote:I have used a method that I saw written up somewhere. You just put a straightedge on the outfeed table and then manually rotate the jointer cutter head. The goal is to have each end of each knife just barely 'grab and drag' the straightedge, the same consistent amount of distance. Now I would have to think about how to exactly calibrate this -- it might work OK if you subscribe to the theory that the cutters should be a few thousandths proud of the outfeed table, to account for wood springback.

You have the basic concept down pat. With that being your objective, there is no right of wrong way to get to that final adjustment. I used the exact method that you described for years.

I now use a dial indicator. Just remember, the final objective is to get all three knives at the same height and that each knife should be at that height as measured at both end and in the middle.

The proof is in the jointed edge.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun May 03, 2009 12:30 am

dusty wrote:You have the basic concept down pat. With that being your objective, there is no right of wrong way to get to that final adjustment. I used the exact method that you described for years.

I now use a dial indicator. Just remember, the final objective is to get all three knives at the same height and that each knife should be at that height as measured at both end and in the middle.

The proof is in the jointed edge.

IF the middle is not equal to the 'ends', HOW does one correct/adjust it?

I would think since the adjustments are at the ends only, that middle measurement is a result of straightness of the blade, not anything adjustable.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sun May 03, 2009 1:42 am

nuhobby wrote:I have used a method that I saw written up somewhere. You just put a straightedge on the outfeed table and then manually rotate the jointer cutter head. The goal is to have each end of each knife just barely 'grab and drag' the straightedge, the same consistent amount of distance. Now I would have to think about how to exactly calibrate this -- it might work OK if you subscribe to the theory that the cutters should be a few thousandths proud of the outfeed table, to account for wood springback.

I'll add to this - using a metal 12 inch ruler for a sraight edge, the ruler should not travel more than 1/8" after a blade catches the ruler.