Routing with the SS question...

tom_k/mo · Post by **tom_k/mo** » Sun May 17, 2009 11:52 am

I know that there are "better" ways (ie. pin router or dedicated router table), but ShopSmith does sell 1/2" and 1/4" Router Chucks and router shields to allow routing with just the Mk5. My question is, if I was to route something with just the Mk5 and a router chuck, what does SS provide for a split fence for routing like this? The Adjustable Router Fence and Hardware (515511) is not ment to be used on/with the standard Mk5 table. I may certainly be missing something (I've been guilty of that before), but I'm not seeing anything to use as a fence for routing with just the Mk5 and the standard table... Any insight?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun May 17, 2009 12:30 pm

tom_k/mo wrote:I know that there are "better" ways (ie. pin router or dedicated router table), but ShopSmith does sell 1/2" and 1/4" Router Chucks and router shields to allow routing with just the Mk5. My question is, if I was to route something with just the Mk5 and a router chuck, what does SS provide for a split fence for routing like this? The Adjustable Router Fence and Hardware (515511) is not ment to be used on/with the standard Mk5 table. I may certainly be missing something (I've been guilty of that before), but I'm not seeing anything to use as a fence for routing with just the Mk5 and the standard table... Any insight?

Not called a 'router fence', BUT it could be used as such.]http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rfence.htm[/url]

tom_k/mo · Post by **tom_k/mo** » Sun May 17, 2009 2:05 pm

JPG, thanks for that pointer. Doesn't show exactly, but does that attach to the table with sliding tee-nuts in the miter slot?

I've been contemplating an option, and wanted to ask here before I tried anything. Mind you, the illustration below DOES NOT SHOW the Router Shield (for illustrative clarity only), but the shield would be on, covering the front half of the blades from access by fingers, etc... Does this look like a workable solution or not?

Also, I realize that the featherboard attaches to the tabletop with knobs and tee-nuts in the miter slot, but just threw something together quick to get the idea...

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Sun May 17, 2009 2:42 pm

Yes Tom that soes attach using the slot and T's. I bought one and later watched Nick (Sawdust Sessions) build a sliding table and fence that I prefer. I can't wait to get back into the shop and use my OPR on the new Mark V I bought. I have used the version I built from Nick's plans on my Shopsmith Router table and found it highly efficient. fjimp

iclark · Post by **iclark** » Sun May 17, 2009 3:53 pm

tom_k/mo wrote:I've been contemplating an option, and wanted to ask here before I tried anything. Mind you, the illustration below DOES NOT SHOW the Router Shield (for illustrative clarity only), but the shield would be on, covering the front half of the blades from access by fingers, etc... Does this look like a workable solution or not?

Also, I realize that the featherboard attaches to the tabletop with knobs and tee-nuts in the miter slot, but just threw something together quick to get the idea...

Tom,

I'm trying to learn here, too, so please take this as a newb inquiry:
I thought that I had read that it was a no-no to run stock between the router bit and the fence. did I get that wrong or maybe miss a caveat?

of course, if that featherboard is on the feed side, there are other questions (sorry, I know it's a quick sketch, just couldn't resist:) )

Ivan

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun May 17, 2009 3:58 pm

Hi,

First, NEVER put the workpiece between the fence and the bit!!!!!

Then I suggest you read the chapter here:

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/routing/index.htm

You might also want to check Ed in Tampa post on a fence he made to fit the shopsmith fence.

Ed

tom_k/mo wrote:JPG, thanks for that pointer. Doesn't show exactly, but does that attach to the table with sliding tee-nuts in the miter slot?

I've been contemplating an option, and wanted to ask here before I tried anything. Mind you, the illustration below DOES NOT SHOW the Router Shield (for illustrative clarity only), but the shield would be on, covering the front half of the blades from access by fingers, etc... Does this look like a workable solution or not?

Also, I realize that the featherboard attaches to the tabletop with knobs and tee-nuts in the miter slot, but just threw something together quick to get the idea...

iclark · Post by **iclark** » Sun May 17, 2009 4:18 pm

reible wrote:First, NEVER put the workpiece between the fence and the bit!!!!!

Ed,

after I posted my reply, I got to remembering the jointech videos of routing dovetails on a router table where they use 90* bracket that slides in the fence and has the stock up against the fence. also, the set-ups that I have seen for using a router to cut a long slot/dado into the edge or face of a board. I am having trouble reconciling these set-ups with the warnings against doing this.

I went to your pointer for understanding and fig 10-4 and, especially, fig 10-19 look to have the work stock between the bit and fence and between the bit and table. neither figure seems consistent with the warning that I have seen from many experienced woodworkers. what am I missing?

Ivan

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon May 18, 2009 1:03 am

Hi,

Even for experienced router users getting the direction of either moving the work piece or the router can be confusing. When you start adding things like jigs and fixtures and the like it gets even worse.

A good basic step is to keep in mind a good reference. Like the hand references in electronics, if you take your right hand and make it look like a backwards letter L (other finger hidden). If the router bit is above like in a hand held router or say the shopsmith the thumb references the bearing surface and the first finger points the direction of feed. If the bit is below like in a router table then the left hand is used.

In cases where the bit is cutting with material on both sides you can feed either way. But for the sake of habit you would normal feed in the same direction as you would according to the rule.

In cases where additional jigs are in place like the case of either the incra or jointech you follow their instructions... like backing the bit out of the cut under power, normally a no-no. You will also need to following the directions for the first and last cuts if they are not embedded....

As for the shopsmith images, 10-4 looks like to me a case where there is material on both sides of the bit... however for this to work well the fence and miter slot have to be aligned pretty well and I would worry about the lack of support for the workpiece at the cut as well as the lack of a backer board to prevent tear out.

The picture 10-19 shopsmith will have to defend... not a cut I would do that way.

If you are interested here is a link that might be helpful:
http://www.routerworkshop.com/direction.html

And a visual
[ATTACH]4553[/ATTACH]

Ed

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon May 18, 2009 1:16 am

Hi,

A couple of other quick comments.

If you look at the original sketch you might note that the bit has a bearing. If you got rid of the fence and added a starter pin you can just use the bearing as the "fence" and do the edge work. You really do need a starter pin and you would use it like is shown in the shaping chapter... in fact all that is shown in the shaping chapter also applies very closely to what is done with the shopsmith set up as a router. Just replace the word collar with bearing and bingo.

So a bit more reading for those that are interested.
http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/shaping/index.htm

Ed

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon May 18, 2009 2:37 am

tom_k/mo wrote:JPG, thanks for that pointer. Doesn't show exactly, but does that attach to the table with sliding tee-nuts in the miter slot?

. . .

My 55+ year old 'shaper' fence clamps to the table over the front and back edge. It does NOT resemble the pix(it is longer).

Ed's second example looks like a design for a wood launcher.

Another consideration re fence on one side, cutter on the other, is the fact that any time the workpiece is displaced away from the fence the cutter will GOUGE the workpiece. The opposite occurs when cutter and fence are on the same edge(a high spot is created which is more easily removed).