Rusted Arbor

[guitarnut]

Good morning all,
I have been wrestling with this arbor all morning and I can't get it free. The blade that came with my SS is rusted pretty badly and I have a shiny new Irwin ready to go, but I can't get the arbor loose. My gut tells me it's reverse thread but I have tried both directions...nothing.

I have soaked it with WD-40 for the last few days and let it sit. It doesn't seem to have helped at all. I think I have plenty of leverage but no go...see my set up.

www.crenshawweb.com/arbor01.jpg

www.crenshawweb.com/arbor02.jpg

Any suggestions much appreciated. I may be looking at a new arbor

Peace,
Mark

[baddlad]

I would try soaking the whole thing blade and all in either Evapo Rust, which is biodegradable or this other stuff I have used to help with rust that works even a little better than the evapo rust but isn't biodegradable called Phosphoric Prep & Etch, made by Klean Strip. This is also used to etch concrete so if you spill any on the concrete it turns the concrete white. It is great though for removing any rust on metals.

Jeff

[JPG]

Good morning all,
I have been wrestling with this arbor all morning and I can't get it free. The blade that came with my SS is rusted pretty badly and I have a shiny new Irwin ready to go, but I can't get the arbor loose. My gut tells me it's reverse thread but I have tried both directions...nothing.

I have soaked it with WD-40 for the last few days and let it sit. It doesn't seem to have helped at all. I think I have plenty of leverage but no go...see my set up.

www.crenshawweb.com/arbor01.jpg

www.crenshawweb.com/arbor02.jpg

Any suggestions much appreciated. I may be looking at a new arbor

Peace,
Mark

Soak it(the threads) in K1 kerosene overnight. Also around the outer edge of the 'nut'. Kerosene is a common major ingredient in 'penetrating oil'.

Do NOT let the 'clamp wrenches' slip!!!!!! GOOD open end wrench would be conducive to better success. With a GOOD open end wrench(es) you can shock the rust by striking with a 'hammer'(one wrench). SECURE the other wrench firmly so it will NOT give. Do Not over do the hammer bit.

[guitarnut]

Thanks for the replies baddlad and JPG!

I decided to "modify" my top clamp so I could get a better bite on the arbor. I cut away some of the casting on the back side of the handle...it was hitting the edge of the blade as I tightened down.

www.crenshawweb.com/arbor04.jpg

Once I got a great bite on it, I noticed that I was able to move it a bit...but I was tightening it! It's standard thread! Hmmm. Anyway, I was able to spin it off with a wrench once I had broken it loose. Gnarled the nut a bit but I'll be replacing it soon anyway.

www.crenshawweb.com/arbor03.jpg

Now, goin' to make sawdust.

Peace,
Mark

[beeg]

GOOD job getting it loose. SOMETIMES ya have to tighten it to get em loose.

[JPG]

Thanks for the replies baddlad and JPG!

I decided to "modify" my top clamp so I could get a better bite on the arbor. I cut away some of the casting on the back side of the handle...it was hitting the edge of the blade as I tightened down.

www.crenshawweb.com/arbor04.jpg

Once I got a great bite on it, I noticed that I was able to move it a bit...but I was tightening it! It's standard thread! Hmmm. Anyway, I was able to spin it off with a wrench once I had broken it loose. Gnarled the nut a bit but I'll be replacing it soon anyway.

www.crenshawweb.com/arbor03.jpg

Now, goin' to make sawdust.

Peace,
Mark

Nuts on the side of the blade opposite the quill ARE right hand thread. Only those on the same side as the quill are left handed threads.