You are on the right path. The sooner you learn the maintenance steps on your Mark 5 the happier you will be with it. The speed control is fairly easy to remove clean and service. It should have a bit of lithium geese applyed to the teeth. All that is in the videos you are watching. I also apply a little on my machines where the hardened spring rides on the speed control sheave. Your machine appears to have been neglected. I also use a little WD 40:eek: , on the spring on the lower outer sheave. I believe in more lubrication than they recommend. I just keep my machines blown out with compressed air. I never saw anything rust with a little oil on it. That is just my opinion. I do keep every thing on the outside waxed with Johnson Past Wax.
You got good advice about a worn belt but if that belt feels brittle of extra stiff you might want to replace it as well. They run smoother and quieter with good belts.
If it was my machine, I'd put two new belts on it. This would give a point of reference. With the old belts, you just don't know. If the belts that are taken are in reasonably good shape - they can be saved as emergency spares.
Oil that puppy and then run it through the speed change, from high to low and back again a couple times. With a clean rag, go in and wipe off the oil that got thrown. Oil it again and "make some saw dust".
Too little oil does real damage. Too much oil just makes a mess. After you've had it for a month or two, you'll know if there is anything that needs to b e replaced/repaired. You'll alos know if the rust that exists is going to give you any trouble.
The one spot that I saw that no one has mentioned is the threaded rod for the headstock lock. I'd take a wire brush to that as best you can and then dust it with graphite where the wedges ride the rod.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Mark, I have nothing to add to the advice you got, and I spend a fair amount of time doing the steps recommended to maintain the SS. These guys all agree, and I 'm not going to argue!! I had a similar issue and I think I may have turned the speed adjuster to far past the "slow" mark and caused a "lock up". I really don't know for sure, but when quit rushing to turn the machine off and let the speed stabilize at low, I have not had a problem.
I don't think I could have gone to far to the fast side, but that would do it.
Now I have left the machine on a high setting and turned it off! That will cause problems. My experience seems to indicate that my procedures cause problems way more often that the tools do! good luck on the instruments!
The one spot that I saw that no one has mentioned is the threaded rod for the headstock lock. I'd take a wire brush to that as best you can and then dust it with graphite where the wedges ride the rod.
Ditto the Carriage Lock!:)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
, on the spring on the lower outer sheave. I believe in more lubrication than they recommend. I just keep my machines blown out with compressed air. I never saw anything rust with a little oil on it. That is just my opinion. I do keep every thing on the outside waxed with Johnson Past Wax.
