PTWFE- Chapter 6 - JOINTERS

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 8:39 am

charlese wrote:I've tried a couple of times to do some tapering of square stock on the jointer, just to see if I could make some tapered legs. I gave up! Like I said, I read about it, thought I knew what I was doing, but had only uneven results. I look at the shapes in "Figure 6-20" with amazement!

Does anyone have experiences with tapering on the jointer?

Yes, I have some experience doing tapers on the jointer. But I don't believe you want me to teach you all that I know about that subject. My experiences have not been what you would want to repeat.

However, I think it is really just a matter of practice and coming to fully understanding what you are attempting to do.

Tapers are really no different than jointing except for one critical factor.

When jointing, we are taught to keep a downward pressure on the "outfeed table" as we pass the jointed item across the cutter.

When attempting a taper, the downward pressure is maintained throughout the entire cut on the "infeed table".

PUSH BLOCKS WITH THE JOINTER ARE A MUST.

Obtaining similar tapers from piece to piece is the real trick. Anyone can do a taper. Doing duplicate tapers requires some practise.

How much should you lower the infeed table when attempting a taper? Where do you want to start the taper?

These are two questions that can be answered only by experience.

Should I be able to do a taper on a long table leg (say 32") with my short bed jointer? It seems like I should but I have had zero success. Advice will be gratefully accepted.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 1:05 pm

dusty wrote:Yep, that is exactly what I said. Situation Normal, All Fowled Up

Wood knot that be "fouled" instead of "fowled"?:p

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 1:12 pm

a1gutterman wrote:Wood knot that be "fouled" instead of "fowled"?:p

KNOT it YOU are a Chicken!!!:D Or a TURKEY!!!!:rolleyes:

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 2:03 pm

I think that is when the 12 pound goose tries to fly in front of the airliner??

a1gutterman wrote:Wood knot that be "fouled" instead of "fowled"?:p

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 2:11 pm

reible wrote:I think that is when the 12 pound goose tries to fly in front of the airliner??

OR a FLOCK of smaller ones.

P.S. I WOULD have mentioned a Goose in #61, but I was trying to keep it rated G!

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 2:49 pm

Finally got around to reading the Jointer Manual.

In particular, I was looking for information about removing the blade guard for rabbeting operations or any restriction on size of workpiece wen rabbeting. I found no reference to either.

However, the section on honing blades did refer to removing the cutter guard before honing.
Honing: First disconnect the power, ten
Step 1; Remove the blade guard
Step 2; Lower the infeed table about 1/8" Lay a piece of wax paper on the infeed table. - Adjust the infeed table so the bevel of the knives butts flush against a straightedge on the infeed table.
Step 3; Wrap an oilstone in wax paper so that no part of the stone touches the infeed table and there is only one layer of paper under the stone, and the bare part of the stone rests on the bevel of a knife.
Step 4; Hone one knife. Making long even strokes from side to side, hone a knife.
Step 5; Count the strokes. 15 to 25 strokes souls be enough. If it takes more you are using the stone incorrectly, or waiting too long between honings.
Step 6; Repeat. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for all tree knives. Remove burrs from knives with a fine stone stroking along the leading edge of each knife.
Step 7; Check the height and cutting edge.

Of importance -- There is a maintenance schedule for the jointer on page 24 of the jointer instructions. These are 5 hour, 10 hr, 50hr and 100 hr. procedures. Honing is listed as a every 50 operating hour procedure.

Size of knife blades - When knives have been re-ground to less than 11/16" they should be discarded immediately.

reible · Post by **reible** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 3:09 pm

Hi Chuck,

Thanks for checking the manual. I guess we are left with what we think we know about the rabbeting. As I mention I don't use the function and even if I did I don't have a shopsmith jointer, so as has been mentioned be safe... if it looks dangerous it probably is and you shouldn't be doing it that way.

One thing I see missing in the honing instructions is to count strokes and give each blade the same number of strokes. Just like you do with say molding head cutters.

For those of you who might have been interested in the knife hone I posted earlier about I have also found that Rockler sells them, item number 20570.

Ed

charlese wrote:Finally got around to reading the Jointer Manual.

In particular, I was looking for information about removing the blade guard for rabbeting operations or any restriction on size of workpiece wen rabbeting. I found no reference to either.

However, the section on honing blades did refer to removing the cutter guard before honing.
Honing: First disconnect the power, ten
Step 1]Remove the blade guard[/B]
Step 2; Lower the infeed table about 1/8" Lay a piece of wax paper on the infeed table. - Adjust the infeed table so the bevel of the knives butts flush against a straightedge on the infeed table.
Step 3; Wrap an oilstone in wax paper so that no part of the stone touches the infeed table and there is only one layer of paper under the stone, and the bare part of the stone rests on the bevel of a knife.
Step 4; Hone one knife. Making long even strokes from side to side, hone a knife.
Step 5; Count the strokes. 15 to 25 strokes souls be enough. If it takes more you are using the stone incorrectly, or waiting too long between honings.
Step 6; Repeat. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for all tree knives. Remove burrs from knives with a fine stone stroking along the leading edge of each knife.
Step 7; Check the height and cutting edge.

Of importance -- There is a maintenance schedule for the jointer on page 24 of the jointer instructions. These are 5 hour, 10 hr, 50hr and 100 hr. procedures. Honing is listed as a every 50 operating hour procedure.

Size of knife blades - When knives have been re-ground to less than 11/16" they should be discarded immediately.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 9:45 pm

Today I broke out a sharpened set of jointer blades and installed them. Didn't use the glass and magnet method, because couldn't find a piece of glass. So used the old metal straight edge method.

What I really wanted to say is, I couldn't hardly believe how dirty and saw-dusty the cutter head and bearings were. It took quite a bit of clean up. Shame on me for not keeping better track of maintenance!:o It was about a year ago when I installed a new cutterhead and hadn't done anything since.

Gotta say it is nice to have a spare set of knives handy. Will sharpen them up tomorrow.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sun May 31, 2009 2:07 pm

How high and long have ya made your auxiliary fence? I know that the one SS sells is 7.75' in height. Is that enough for a 1X12 board?

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sun May 31, 2009 5:50 pm

Aulillary fence? I don't have one.